Coupling Roundhouse Conway Castle to LGB rolling stock

[David Lewsley]

Hello folks

I've just spent a couple of hours getting very confused...

I'm pretty new to garden railways - I only got my layout reliably operational a couple of weeks ago - although I've been constructing for over 10 years - don't ask....

Started out with DCC but it's a ground level line and the cleaning was impossible. So decided to switch to battery RC. In anticipation of getting the layout running I treated myself to a Roundhouse Conway Castle engine but all my rolling stock, so far, is LGB - I would like some practical advice on how to couple the two. At the moment I've used the existing couplings with a piece of bent wire to make it more secure. What I would like is a short term solution, ideally to swap out the coupling on the engine with something that is more compatible with the LGB coupling. Then longer term, does anyone have any thoughts on the best coupling system for UK style running stock, the layout is designed for continuous running but I would like to do some simple shunting at some point and as I have limited stock now does seem the time to make a long term decision.

Many thanks for any advice

David
Confused beginner

 

[Gizzy]

I use the LGB hook and loop but then all my stock is LGB or PIKO.

I've seen a supplier of a metal loop for battery and live steam locos, made by Brandbright....

RSA46 - Brandbright

Loop Buffer, as used on many industrial locos, using a chain to couple to this or other centre buffer type couplings. The cast buffer is arranged such that the cast in stud fixes at the same height as conventional buffers,…Read more RSA46 ›

brandbright.co.uk

 

[Gizzy]

I see you are in Cambs too, so PM me if you need help....

 

[Zerogee]

Accucraft Germany (MBV Schug) and Regner both make (or have made) metal versions of the LGB style coupler loop, with screw holes to fit to the bufferbeams of live steam and other locos - but in both cases these are (a) horribly expensive and (b) difficult to get in the UK...
The Brandbright whitemetal cast ones that Giz mentions above are probably a much better UK option.

Another solution would be to cut down an actual LGB plastic coupler, separating the loop from its mounting arm, then screw it to the loco maybe with an adaptor plate of some sort to get the correct height? Would require a little bit of applied bodging, but certainly do-able.

Jon.

 

[palmerston]

To avoid damaging your beautiful Roundhouse locomotive, it is better to fit an LGB wagon with an Accucraft chopper coupling. The couplers on the newer Roundhouse models are Accucraft-compatible!

 

[maxi-model]

I would be carefull what one suggests can be fitted to this as an alternative to the fitted coupler. It appears to be a dumb centre buffer dressed up to look like a chopper. But look carefully at RH's pictures, there does not seem to be a recess for a choppers "hook" to grasp. Dunb in more ways than one. Without turning it upside down it is impossible to see how the coupler is mounted to the chassis.

Admittedly most RH locos use an standard coupler mount, for a dumb center buffer, so that aftermarket metal hook and loop "swap outs" like Brandbright's can be fitted. But looking at this loco it seems things may have been changed.

I have Locolines' similar Upnor Castle and that has a "chopper" lookalike that cannot be used with the market standard "Accucraft" type, only as 3 link chain coupler. You cannot even just easily drill the buffer beam and pop in the "Accucraft" type to hook up to your Ffestiniog/WHRstock, infuriating.

 

[PhilP]

Can I suggest the Mk.1 paperclip?

Infinitely adjustable, every loco box should have a few floating around in it.

PhilP.

 

[dunnyrail]

Like Gizzy I have used the Brandbright offering that works perfectly, though I do wonder about what Max is saying?

 

[JimmyB]

I use the LGB hook and loop but then all my stock is LGB or PIKO.

I've seen a supplier of a metal loop for battery and live steam locos, made by Brandbright....

RSA46 - Brandbright

Loop Buffer, as used on many industrial locos, using a chain to couple to this or other centre buffer type couplings. The cast buffer is arranged such that the cast in stud fixes at the same height as conventional buffers,…Read more RSA46 ›

brandbright.co.uk

That is what I fitted to my RH.

 

[maxi-model]

If all else fails ask Roundhouse Roundhouse Engineering Co. Ltd. A good search of their site throws no light on the subject but I'm sure they must get asked the question a lot. My Roundhouse Darjeeling B & D class live steamers and NDM6 diesel cannot be fitted with an aftermarket "hook & loop" coupler converter as a straight swop. My RH Criccieth Castle diesel can, as could my Lady Anne. So, it is not a given that all Roundhouse locos can have this workaround (easily) fitted. As a wise person once told me many years ago, "Do not assume, as to assume makes an Ass of U and Me". Am I in a lot of trouble now ?

 

[James M]

I use Brandbright couplings like these on leading wagon, they simply screw in place of the traditional LGB coupling.

 

[Gizzy]

I would be carefull what one suggests can be fitted to this as an alternative to the fitted coupler. It appears to be a dumb centre buffer dressed up to look like a chopper. But look carefully at RH's pictures, there does not seem to be a recess for a choppers "hook" to grasp. Dunb in more ways than one. Without turning it upside down it is impossible to see how the coupler is mounted to the chassis.

On the Brandbright Web pages, all their coupling types are shown attached to a greyed out bumb buffer beam. This is for example only.

David will need to confirm with Brandbright that the part is suitable for his RH loco, but I'm confident that it will work given Jimmy's confirmation....

 

[RDFMTS2]

Hi David.

Welcome to the forum.

Just to throw the cat amongst the pigeons, any LGB rolling stock I get, has the 'over sized triang' couplers replaced with three link chain couplers/buffers. Often proper metal sprung buffers, if I have the time to make them, otherwise Binnie engineering plastic ones, which work fine. It was a case of, I had a lot more stock with buffers when I bought my first s/h LGB rolling stock, so it seemed logical to just remove/replace the 'triang' ones.

David

 

[railwayman198]

On my Criccieth Castle I made LGB compatible loops from brass that fit into the existing screw holes that secure the buffer beam, so the supplied buffer is retained if needed. It works well. However, I'm not sure that Conway Castle has suitable retaining screws in the buffer beam.