Converting Switches to Isolate non-selected Exit

E

ernie

Registered
Rather than attaching an EPL Supplementary Switch 12070 and using a 10153 Interrupter Track to achieve isolating a siding, is it not possible to modify the Switch to automatically isolate the exit that is not selected?

Rather than 'butcher' an expensive Electric Switch, I thought I should ask here first.

Thanks
Ernie
 
I would personally use the LGB 10260 yellow isolators and Gaugemaster switches.

http://www.gaugemaster.com/search_results.asp?searchstring=switches scale~~%ACg%AC~~scale category~~1235~~category

http://www.gaugemaster.com/search_results.asp?searchstring=accessories scale~~%ACg%AC~~scale category~~1262~~category#5



Much cheaper, and if you change to DCC, easier to change back to non-isolating just by refitting the original LGB 10001 fishplate....
 
Yep, I second Gizzy`s suggestion.  Use the isolating joiners and add switches.  Remember the garden environment is harsh, stuff gets dirty and you don`t want to be relying on point blade contact for switching. 

Personally I have a box with a bank of weather proof switches on the wall. The main power feed goes via this box to the track, and each switched section just uses a single wire from the box.

weatherproof switch box.jpg

I`m not keen on using the 12070 supplementary switches for directly powering sections, the microswitches aren`t rated for very high current - about 3 amps I think.    I think of the 12070 more for switching lower power accessories such as signals or maybe driving other stuff via relays, however I do use 12070s where I`ve converted some of my points to live frog, my reasoning being that the higher current of a large loco is only drawn through the frog and the microswitch as the loco passes over.

My simple little line was designed with sections in loops and sidings to support analogue DC running, but TBH I run DCC the vast majority of the time so all sections are simply left on.   

Nick (SE Kent)


 
 
ntpntpntp said:
I'm not keen on using the 12070 supplementary switches for directly powering sections, the microswitches aren't rated for very high current - about 3 amps I think. I think of the 12070 more for switching lower power accessories such as signals or maybe driving other stuff via relays, however I do use 12070s where I've converted some of my points to live frog, my reasoning being that the higher current of a large loco is only drawn through the frog and the microswitch as the loco passes over.
Click to expand...

Another endorsement for only using 12070 supplementary switches for light duty. They are rated at only 3A ac 2A dc, what's more the current passes through the spring. When this gets hot due to relatively high current it permanently loses its springiness causing the switch to fail.
I am in the process of converting some Peco points to live frog for indoor use on my local GSS group's layout. I have chosen to use Panasonic AVM34353 microswitches (RS ref 699-4743) as they have a 5A dc rating and have a "long life" independent spring.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/microswitches/6994743

For some outdoor applications I've used the 12070 supplementary switches to switch the coils of sealed automotive relays, the contacts of which carry the power to the track.
 
Hi,

I'm sorry to barge in here but I have similar experiences with the LGB Microswitches. We have a custom made curved point on our line which was made to fit a specific location, and it has a live frog which is currently controlled by an LGB supplementary switch on an LGB point motor. I have had a few fail now over the last year or so and I thought it was due due to moisture or something similar. I'm sure now thought that it must be the current as we run 23V AC through DCC, and most of our locos are large current hungry American stock with sound.

What have you guys used for live frog applications? With an EPL point motor?

Neil: How did you use the microswitch you mention? Did you open up the LGB supplementary switch and replace the components inside? What's the bet way to approach this? Also would you have any pictures showing the install please?

Many thanks,
G
 
When I did a couple of Peco live frog conversions for a friend, the points remained manually operated.  I fitted a microswitch under a sleeper next to the tie-bar, with a short screw under the tiebar to actuate the microswitch lever.  Quite a neat and unobtrusive arrangement  as I recall.  Pretty sure the microswitch was some sort of higher current rated and weather-resistant type.  Might have a piccie somewhere, if I find it I`ll post it here.

<edit> found a piccie: this looks like the first trial, as I don`t think that`s a weatherproof microswitch and also I realised that mounting the microswitch in the same sleeper as the red and white wire solder joints would be neater, with the black wire still going off to the frog.

DSCN0528a.jpg
 
CoggesRailway said:
Nick, nice looking switch box that!
Click to expand...
Yeah, from Amazon I think. I've got two of 'em on my wall. They're intended for mains switching, I had to do a little minor surgery to the internal board so that I could use the live and neutral buss for the track feed and switch either the "left" or "right" rail depending on requirement. The built-in fuse is handy too, I've had those blow a couple of times during derailments!
 
[quote author=supagav link=topic=299194.msg320408#msg320408 date=1404483890]
What have you guys used for live frog applications? With an EPL point motor?

Neil: How did you use the microswitch you mention? Did you open up the LGB supplementary switch and replace the components inside? What`s the bet way to approach this? Also would you have any pictures showing the install please?
[/quote]
I didn`t open up the LGB supplementary switch as the microswitch fitted by LGB is the highest current rating of its size that I could find. Also my application doesn`t use an LGB point motor, it`s triggered by a pin soldered to one of the blades. You may wish to arrange it to be triggered by the other side of the blade tie bar to that operated by the point motor. However as you already have the LGB switches installed I`d be tempted to use them to operate automotive relay coils with their contacts switching the frog power.

Images of the relatively crude prototype.


IMG_0207 (640 x 480).jpg


IMG_0212 (640 x 480).jpg


Incidentally the LGB microswitches may be economically repaired using the original spec. Cherry microswitches ( one each DG13-B2LA and DG13-B3LA) from Rapid electronics, their part numbers 50-2648 and 50-1146. http://www.rapidonline.com/Design-Technology/Cherry-Sub-Subminiature-Microswitches-DG1-Series-520206
 
I do use the supplementary switches but they operate relays which handle the track power. Never had an issue this way.
 
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