I`ve asked about converting F7`s before but can`t find the answers now. Does anyone remember please?
Bernard
Bernard
Converting LGB Baltimore and Ohio F7 set to digital
- Thread starter Bernard Haste
- Start date
Well I had tried that before I posted my message.
Perhaps I put in the wrong search terms.
Did you find a match?
Bernard
Perhaps I put in the wrong search terms.
Did you find a match?
Bernard
I tried but I don't know the search terms that you used.Bernard Haste said:
I tried LGB F7 and DCC....
It might be worth you searching through the DDC section (25 pages) and the locomotive section (39 pages) of the forum to see if you can find your previous post....
Did a search on your posts;
http://www.gscalecentral.net/tm?m=113187&high=Bernard+Haste
Three previous queries re Kiss locos but nothing on LGB F7s?
Maybe you need to start a new thread....
http://www.gscalecentral.net/tm?m=113187&high=Bernard+Haste
Three previous queries re Kiss locos but nothing on LGB F7s?
Maybe you need to start a new thread....
Bernard
Which version do you have, ie 5 digit code number that should simply things as to what you need.
Which version do you have, ie 5 digit code number that should simply things as to what you need.
Now assuming it's the same as the other special US livery versions it probably has this symbol on the loco and box?
In which case Page 8 of this LGB book has the original instructions using two decoders and an interface cable. With an mts 3 decoder though it can handle both motor bogies so you only need one.
http://www.champex-linden.de/lgb_pr...31052785256C38004C15A8/$FILE/2x570_121999.pdf
If it's this board then follow these instructions
Installing MTS3 or another manufacturers decoder to a loco designed for two LGB decoders and an interface lead.
Part 1 the decoder.
Before running any decoder installation on a layout it is advisable to check wiring carefully so you don't destroy the chip or the locos electronics. The best way is to test it using something like the LGB programming module or an alternative like the SPROG programmer, these will show an incorrect wiring problem by displaying an unable to read error.
A MTS 3 chip or similar 3amp decoder from Zimo, Massoth etc will run both motor blocks with no problems.
You'll find the 8 pins on the locos main board (arrowed in red)
in two rows of four labelled -
ge = yellow - Motor
ws = white - Track
br = brown - Track
gn = green - Motor
You just need to connect each pair of pins together, (ie if using these pins on the board it's yellow to yellow etc), and then each of the pairs to the relevant wire on the chip. I used LGB spade connectors to save soldering directly to the loco board.
Remember to CHANGE THE DIP SWITCHES before trying it.
Part 2 the interface lead.
If it is the plain black interface socket then the interface lead, (goes in the arrowed blue socket that is empty), will just connect to the MTS3 chip as it was only connected to one of the two mts2 chips anyway if you installed those. I can only assume the same would go for sound as it would only need on chip telling it what the loco was doing and this info would be through the interface lead.
Here's the interface lead wiring guide. The colour code for this, courtesy of zimo, is-
Blue = Rear lights
Green = Ground
Yellow = Positive Volts
Orange = F1
Red = Front lights
Brown = Positive Volts
In which case Page 8 of this LGB book has the original instructions using two decoders and an interface cable. With an mts 3 decoder though it can handle both motor bogies so you only need one.
http://www.champex-linden.de/lgb_pr...31052785256C38004C15A8/$FILE/2x570_121999.pdf
If it's this board then follow these instructions
Installing MTS3 or another manufacturers decoder to a loco designed for two LGB decoders and an interface lead.
Part 1 the decoder.
Before running any decoder installation on a layout it is advisable to check wiring carefully so you don't destroy the chip or the locos electronics. The best way is to test it using something like the LGB programming module or an alternative like the SPROG programmer, these will show an incorrect wiring problem by displaying an unable to read error.
A MTS 3 chip or similar 3amp decoder from Zimo, Massoth etc will run both motor blocks with no problems.
You'll find the 8 pins on the locos main board (arrowed in red)
in two rows of four labelled -
ge = yellow - Motor
ws = white - Track
br = brown - Track
gn = green - Motor
You just need to connect each pair of pins together, (ie if using these pins on the board it's yellow to yellow etc), and then each of the pairs to the relevant wire on the chip. I used LGB spade connectors to save soldering directly to the loco board.
Remember to CHANGE THE DIP SWITCHES before trying it.
Part 2 the interface lead.
If it is the plain black interface socket then the interface lead, (goes in the arrowed blue socket that is empty), will just connect to the MTS3 chip as it was only connected to one of the two mts2 chips anyway if you installed those. I can only assume the same would go for sound as it would only need on chip telling it what the loco was doing and this info would be through the interface lead.
Here's the interface lead wiring guide. The colour code for this, courtesy of zimo, is-
Blue = Rear lights
Green = Ground
Yellow = Positive Volts
Orange = F1
Red = Front lights
Brown = Positive Volts