Conversion: Toby the Tram

BakerJohn

BakerJohn

Model Railroader, Farmer, Pastry Cook
#1
Good Morning all!
I would like to share with you my new project since my Forney is (almost) complete! I am going to be rewiring and detailing Bachmann's LS Toby the Tram. The goals of this project are to:
  • rewire for battery power r/c control including lights
  • remove the eye mechanism
  • remove all black-out windows and doors
  • glaze windows
  • fit floors and walls in cab
  • fabricate boiler to cover motor block and hie battery, Rx, and wiring
  • fabricate new brass hand rails
  • fabricate new light fixtures for either end of the tram
It's less complicated than it seems from that list, but it'll be my first time doing a larger build with styrene, so it's going to take some time.
Here's my wiring diagram for the loco...

There's a DPDT switch on the bottom of these locos used to switch polarity (or polabity). But, I'll be rewiring it to basically use it as a SPDT to switch between run and charge. You'll notice that the lights are also directly connected to the switch, but only the inside one will be always on when the locomotive is switched to RUN. (I need something to tell me the battery is active. Since there's no sound with this one I thought a cab light would be good.)
I've taken measurements of the whole thing and figured out what parts I need for this project already. However, I'm probably not going to really start until there's no chance of getting outside again. At the moment I may still be able to do some track work...
 
Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
22,947
3,092
North West Norfolk
#2
Others may be able to advise on the lighting outputs from the Rx (depending on which one your using) - but where I've wired LEDs from an ESC, the voltage is reduced so there's no need for a resistor. Equally, some only have two outputs - negative and positive - so you can wire the LEDs anode to cathode and all you have to do is a bit of trial and error to get them working the right way round.
 
PhilP

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
21,272
2,467
Tamworth, Staffs.
#3
Others may be able to advise on the lighting outputs from the Rx (depending on which one your using) - but where I've wired LEDs from an ESC, the voltage is reduced so there's no need for a resistor. Equally, some only have two outputs - negative and positive - so you can wire the LEDs anode to cathode and all you have to do is a bit of trial and error to get them working the right way round.
As shown in John's diagram, it is a Deltang Rx65c receiver..
Pads 'A' and 'B' are front and rear light outputs respectively. 0V when 'on', so when connecting to a LED, and then battery positive, a suitably sized resistor is required.

PhilP.
 
Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
22,947
3,092
North West Norfolk
#4
As shown in John's diagram, it is a Deltang Rx65c receiver..
Pads 'A' and 'B' are front and rear light outputs respectively. 0V when 'on', so when connecting to a LED, and then battery positive, a suitably sized resistor is required.

PhilP.
Ooooh. sharrafter remember that one for the future - was thinking of one of those Rxs as a possibility for battering the Aristo Rogers 2-4-2 :think::think::think::think:
 
Madman

Madman

Registered
25 Oct 2009
12,594
2,007
Pennsylvania, USA
#5
Looking forward to your progress, John.
 
PhilP

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
21,272
2,467
Tamworth, Staffs.
#6
Looking forward to your progress, John.
Me too...

It will be a heck of a lot of work, to open the tram up, and detail it.. :think::nod::nod:
I think you may find Bachmann used a 'military grade' plastics! :eek::nod:
 
BakerJohn

BakerJohn

Model Railroader, Farmer, Pastry Cook
#7
Me too...

It will be a heck of a lot of work, to open the tram up, and detail it.. :think::nod::nod:
I think you may find Bachmann used a 'military grade' plastics! :eek::nod:
Well, it will be quite an experience then, won't it! Im thinking a slow angle grinder might be a good tool. But would it melt the plastics?
 
PhilP

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
21,272
2,467
Tamworth, Staffs.
#8
Well, it will be quite an experience then, won't it! Im thinking a slow angle grinder might be a good tool. But would it melt the plastics?
:eek:
Perhaps a Dremel (mini-drill) cut-off disc might be a little more subtle! ;)

it has been done before... But I can't remember whether is was on the Internet, or Garden Rail?? - Perhaps someone with a digital subscription could do a search? :think:
 
Greg Elmassian

Greg Elmassian

Registered
8 Mar 2014
1,994
514
San Diego
www.elmassian.com
#10
I have an Emily, used the Dremel cutoff wheels, the new style that use the quick release mandrel. I used the plastic cutoff wheel (they make a thin and metal variations).

The plastic will melt at higher speeds, but the "swarf" will break off easily, i.e. the melting is pretty localized, does not completely liquify and "grab" the wheel.

Greg