Connectors for Piko motor block...?

Zerogee

Zerogee

Clencher's Bogleman
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I posed a question in another thread recently, about the connectors used on Piko motor blocks - I thought I'd ask it again as a new thread in the hope of getting a few more answers....

I have a brand-new Piko 4 wheel motor block here that I bought from Bertram Heyn at the Llanfair show, as the power unit for the O&K MV9 diesel kit that I purchased from him. I've never actually used a Piko gearbox for a kit or conversion before, so I'm not familiar with the wiring connections to it. There are the usual four pins on top, identifying them isn't a problem as they are clearly marked as track and motor connections - but each pin is recessed into a half-round cutout in the gearbox top moulding, obviously to prevent any shorting problems. Their location means that using the common LGB/Massoth type push-on connectors is not possible, because they simply won't physically fit - the connectors need to be some sort of simple cylindrical push-on that doesn't have the side "tabs" that the Massoth type have.

One of the responses that I got on the other thread suggested using a piece of very small brass tubing as a push-on connector, but that would require some tube with an internal diameter of 1mm or even a bit less, something that I'm finding a bit difficult to locate; does anyone have any ideas of where I could source the kind of connectors that Piko themselves use in their wiring looms?

I've searched around for Piko parts and accessories, but can't find any connectors listed; the motor unit I have is a Piko 36105, as used in the BR218 and others.

Any help in sourcing the correct connectors, or a suitable alternative, would be gratefully received!

Jon.
 
Jon. I've used the very fine ally tubing you get from model shops to make squashable connectors for LEDs as my soldering skills are carp. If you use a Stanley knife or similar it will slice longitudinally to fit over pins. larger wires etc. Worth a bash at about 90p for a foot?
 
Thanks Wandgrudd and Mike, they might do the trick.... but in the meantime I think I've solved my own problem without having to order anything!

Just after I'd posted the question, I suddenly thought of something that might work - and after a few minutes rummaging for the relevant bits, it does.

I remembered that some time ago, I'd bought some of the little red 2-pin JST connectors in "DIY" form, for wiring up some low-voltage lighting systems for my work-related tradestand displays - these are supplied with the metal plug inserts separate (on a "sprue" rail of 10), so that you can crimp wires to them and then slip them into the red plastic housings - they have a little spring tab that prevents them from pulling out again once they are "locked" in place in the plastic plug.
Anyway, the metal insert used in the "male" JST plug (which is techically a female connector, because it fits over the pins in the other half), used on its own with a bit of heatshrink round it to protect the wiring connection, is a perfect fit on the Piko connection pins - and the overall size is small enough to fit inside the half-round cutout in the housing.

Hope that this may be of some help to others in a similar position, especially as folks have said that the ones Piko themselves use on their wiring looms are not very strong!

Jon.
 
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Zerogee said:
Thanks Wandgrudd and Mike, they might do the trick.... but in the meantime I think I've solved my own problem without having to order anything!

Just after I'd posted the question, I suddenly thought of something that might work - and after a few minutes rummaging for the relevant bits, it does.

I remembered that some time ago, I'd bought some of the little red 2-pin JST connectors in "DIY" form, for wiring up some low-voltage lighting systems for my work-related tradestand displays - these are supplied with the metal plug inserts separate (on a "sprue" rail of 10), so that you can crimp wires to them and then slip them into the red plastic housings - they have a little spring tab that prevents them from pulling out again once they are "locked" in place in the plastic plug.
Anyway, the metal insert used in the "male" JST plug (which is techically a female connector, because it fits over the pins in the other half), used on its own with a bit of heatshrink round it to protect the wiring connection, is a perfect fit on the Piko connection pins - and the overall size is small enough to fit inside the half-round cutout in the housing.

Hope that this may be of some help to others in a similar position, especially as folks have said that the ones Piko themselves use on their wiring looms are not very strong!

Jon.
Click to expand...
Interesting solution, a picture would be of interest if you have time to do one.
 
dunnyrail said:
Interesting solution, a picture would be of interest if you have time to do one.
Click to expand...

Here you go, JonD.....
Pics show the Piko block with one of the "naked" JST connectors pushed onto one of the terminal pins, plus the strip of connectors as supplied with the "DIY" JST kit - you get ten each male and female pins, and five sets of the plastic two-pin plug housings; these are the "female" pins, but they go in the "male" plug housing (Confused? Not half as much as they are.....). ;)

The connectors fit snugly onto the pins, and sit well within the half-round cutouts in the moulding - you can see why the Massoth/LGB type wouldn't fit.....

Piko connector2.jpeg

Piko connector1.jpeg

When I start putting the Heyn MV9 kit together, I will try to take enough photos to do a proper review and build-up thread.....

Jon.
 
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Zerogee said:
Here you go, JonD.....
Pics show the Piko block with one of the "naked" JST connectors pushed onto one of the terminal pins, plus the strip of connectors as supplied with the "DIY" JST kit - you get ten each male and female pins, and five sets of the plastic two-pin plug housings; these are the "female" pins, but they go in the "male" plug housing (Confused? Not half as much as they are.....). ;)

The connectors fit snugly onto the pins, and sit well within the half-round cutouts in the moulding - you can see why the Massoth/LGB type wouldn't fit.....

View attachment 244106

View attachment 244105

When I start putting the Heyn MV9 kit together, I will try to take enough photos to do a proper review and build-up thread.....

Jon.
Click to expand...
Great! I’m headed to eBay. I have also, in less confined spaces, gotten by using the rolled edge of a female crimp-on spade connector slipped over the pin. Awkward, but reliable.
 
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