Connecting manual points

That's nice looking track Bob, and a nice [strike]point switch point switch[/strike] change-of-direction-thingie :confused: What make ? (Yes thats Dumb question # 161)
 
'S all Peco G45 Don.
 
Funny that, it looks a far bigger radius - you haven't sat on it, have you ? ;)
 
Don Gilham said:
Funny that, it looks a far bigger radius - you haven't sat on it, have you ? ;)
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If I had, it'd be a much TIGHTER radius. :rolf::rolf::rolf:
 
400Parker said:
Ed,
This is what I've done on my railway to manually control two points at the same time. I use nylon bell cranks from Ripmax and 3/16" brass rod. The rod is connected to the bell cranks using clevises (also from Ripmax). If you (or anyone else) would like to contact me by PM or e-mail I can supply bell cranks at a good price.
Steve
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Just noticed the connection to a signal, thats very interesting, is it your own signal or a commercial one?
 
Cyclone said:
Cheers for the pics, very useful. I see the bell crank is connected direct to the "point slider", how have you connected can quite see?
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That's the place where I put in the Peco slotted link. You can also see the 'floppy disc' return spring.
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I think that at some stage soon I might just add a guide to the long rod it seems to be a bit saggy, getting!
 
Hello Ed,
Apologies, I missed your question about the signal. It's from Tolhurst Model Engineers and is in the foreground of the attached picture. It's the "Rolls Royce" of signals as far as I'm concerned, but with a price to match. The signal in the background is from Model Signal Engineers and does just as well at a more modest price, but the Tolhurst signal looks just like the real thing.
Steve
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400Parker said:
Hello Ed,
Apologies, I missed your question about the signal. It's from Tolhurst Model Engineers and is in the foreground of the attached picture. It's the "Rolls Royce" of signals as far as I'm concerned, but with a price to match. The signal in the background is from Model Signal Engineers and does just as well at a more modest price, but the Tolhurst signal looks just like the real thing.
Steve
images
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Ooooooh yes! 'tis a cracker. Once my new neighbour has finished messing with my track mounting (fence) I had intended to start on some signalling and maybe some sectioning for interlocking as well.
 
The big plan is to have the points connected to a home starter. My Dad is making me a signal (hes made 00 ones before but not 16mm) I think its gonna be bracketed and fixed to a wall.
Got fed up with switching points today and just ran trains backwards. Trying to work out if its feasible to run a loop behind a shed with no access...
 
Cyclone said:
(cant think of word for something that supports the rod)
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Stools (if you'll pardon the expression)

Thanks for all this info so far chaps. I've been considering mechanising my pointwork for a while and there are some really great ideas here. I'd been wondering how to fix the cranks in place, I like the idea of screwing a plate beneath the tie bar - is that a sheet of brass? I'm (now) considering using this sort of approach for also mounting my stools (schoolboy smirk ;-} )

I seem to remember an article in Railway Modeller many many years ago advocating the use of bicycle spokes as point rodding. They come ready galvanised and usually are threaded at one end. No idea of their diameter but, of course, they would be restricted in length (26"?).

Rik
 
Sorry Rik, they're only half that! 26" is the diameter.
 
Sure did! But these days I should think they'll be a bit like hobby-horse poo.:rolf::rolf:

I used brazing rods they come in lengths about 2'6".
 
I use a simple method for remote operation of my R1 points on my trailer layout. Sorry I haven't any pics because the trailer is closed up and in the barn but I'll try and explain. I use mainly Arist points and retain the manual switch. I extend on the opposite side using one of the plastic locating fixing "prongs" from an old switch. To this I mount a homemade bellcrank - three 2mm holes drilled in it (one for the pivot, one for linking to the point mecanism and the other to my operating system. I pull against the spring so when I let go it returns to the set route.

As regards the operating link, I use fishing line - avalable in many strengths (or weights) and this turns around two rightangles on my layout without any problems whatsoever. Turns are achieved by using pastic tube (ex-spray bottle guts) simply fastened down with 4mm round wire cable clips. The distance (by connecting line) is 7 or 8 feet. The only thing I haven't done (at the moment) is set up operating levers. The system has operated for some 400 (intensive) hours so far.

If you want something more discreet, I'm sure a simple spring could replace the manual switch. I don't see the need for point rodding which has its limitations and weathering problems. But that's my solution to a situation where one point is on the extemity of a lift-off baseboard and the other point has to be removed because its right on the join where baseboard meets trailer.

I'll try and get some pics later.

Pardon me for intruding - I've read the whole thread and I see its about point rodding:thumbup:
 
Brazing rod sounds most sensible, however Im going to experiment with straightened coat hangers. (we have an ironing lady and she always leaves us with a million wire hangers)
The force to throw the point seems quite low so hopefully not too bendy....
Also using automotive electrical crimp connectors, as Ive got loads.
Not as attractive as clevises but havent got any.
 
Gizzy wrote :
"I have a few crossovers................"
Talk about an understatement.
 
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