casting with resin

justme igor

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A youtube video caught my attention:

Does anyone have some experience with this?
I think for me this will be a good solution?
Create one car, make a mould and make the car in series.

Some pro's or con's?

Thanks in advance
 

The Shed

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justme igor justme igor

As for pros and cons, once the master is created and a master mold produced, repetitive task is easier, practical experience only in producing items for the smaller scales. in 009, 0-16.5, 7mm NGA, and GN15, not sure how large flat areas in G Scale would be produced without some trial and error.

Small to medium size items were achievable, especially useful for protection of electrical circuits outdoors, see other posts on DCC Automation, may well create molds and cast in resin, as to using 3D printing, something to mull over.

This is ONLY available in the UK. Consult the items listed, should be able to find comparable products where you are.
Polycraft Moulding & Casting Resin Kit - Mini (Includes SG2000)
 
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JimmyB

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Madman

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As The Shed mentioned, how practical would this method be with our large scale trains ? Both in the actual process and the cost.
 

Greg Elmassian

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you might need to add stiffening metal to the mold in larger sizes.

Notice the large amount of flash on the casting when the part is removed? It's at the mold parting lines. I suspect that a more sophisticated clamping system of the 2 halves of the mold is needed.
 

ge_rik

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Most of my open wagons were produced from my own resin castings


The pros
  • A cheap and effective way to batch produce
  • Quite easy to do - not a complicated process
  • Can be used for small or large parts
The cons
  • A bit messy
  • Tricky to avoid air bubbles which can spoil detail
  • Care needs to be taken to avoid contact with resin and inhaling fumes
  • Raw materials have a limited shelf life
I found the process to be very satisfying and perfect for the stage I had reached - needing to increase my rolling stock numbers quickly and cheaply. I've now gone over to 3D printing which is even more flexible, less messy (apart from resin printing), more consistent in getting quality outcomes but requires a much larger initial outlay in buying the printer.

Hope that helps

Rik
 
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justme igor

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justme igor

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As The Shed mentioned, how practical would this method be with our large scale trains ? Both in the actual process and the cost.
If you want to make 39 coal cars, i think it would be worth the effort, but only make the sides plus bottom and than glue all to gather.
For trucks and couplers i need much more, all soviet area(1910-1940), for that i think it is also duable
 

justme igor

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you might need to add stiffening metal to the mold in larger sizes.
Oh yes...some simple copper wire soldered into a mash like concrete re bare maze, this is a must, cous it is to big, clever man Greg!
Notice the large amount of flash on the casting when the part is removed? It's at the mold parting lines.
Like sand casting metal, i am sure you know a thing or two about this "side hobby"

I suspect that a more sophisticated clamping system of the 2 halves of the mold is needed.
Again box it in just like sand casting, you really don't want to have it "wobbly"
 

justme igor

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Hope that helps
Exactly my thoughts and the answer i would like to hear as a confirmation.
Thanks for the link i will check it out.

With best regards Igor
 

justme igor

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Tricky to avoid air bubbles which can spoil detail
hair drier or a simple vacuum chamber made of a refrigerator compressor( aldo i have "professional stuff" the refrigerator vacuum is still working!!!!)
 

justme igor

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Hope that helps
Thanks for the link, your blog is gold, i know i said it before and i will state it again, and again, AND again...your blog is gold.
I put a comment but i forgot "you are not a robot".....sorry.

With best regards Igor
 

Bill Box

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There are two main types of catalysts used for silicone rubber: platinum and tin. The platinum catalyzed rubber does not shrink significantly while the tin type can have relatively high shrinkage. You should check out the specifics before you order. "Smooth On" is a good supplier in North America. By the way, there are MANY good videos on YouTube.

Along with vacuum de-airing, there are many casters using a pressure pot at about 45 psi while the resin cures. The pressure makes the bubbles disappear in a process that defies my common sense, but it works.

Bill Box