Broken track ties on points - affecting track gauge

[curtis]

Team, once again I'm seeking your wisdom and advice. I have x2points on the layout (Piko curved points, LGB R3) where the track ties on one side have been damage. This affects the gauge between the rails (making it smaller) and is frequently causing derailments. I can generally reposition a rail after a derailment and it will be fine for a while before it moves again. My track is fixed with rail clamps but these don't seem sufficient to hold them in place.

I'm curious if anyone had a similar problem in the past and how they resolved it. I was thinking of simply supergluing the brass rail to the remaining cable ties but this seemed quite slapdash and I wasn't sure how it would hold up outdoors.

EDIT: JimmyB pointed out I wasn't clear _where_ the issue is which isn't very helpful when asking for advice so I added a picture:

 

[JimmyB]

I assume the ties are towards the "toe" of the point where the blades move. I have had similar, and found glue does not work, either a small nut and bolt through the sleeper to hold the track, "weld" a small piece from a spare sleeper.

 

[curtis]

JimmyB I didn't a terrible job of explaining where the issue was so I added a picture. Yes, you're right, the problem is at the end after the two tracks have converged.

I assumed similar. I've never done anything like this before. I'm assuming a pilot hole followed by an available screw?

Welding would be _melting_ a track tie on?

 

[JimmyB]

Yes, you're right, the problem is at the end after the two tracks have converged.

That is where I suspected the issue to be

I assumed similar. I've never done anything like this before. I'm assuming a pilot hole followed by an available screw?

I have used small (2mm nut and bolts) but a small self taper with pilot hole should do.

Welding would be _melting_ a track tie on?

Basically yes, I have a spare tip for my soldering iron that I use on broken track pieces.

 

[palmerston]

Bernd Betz, Germany, has repair kits:

LGB & Thiel turnout repair kits

 

[stevedenver]

Replace the points , have no operational issues,and be done with it for the next fifteen years.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

You need to secure the rail, and not with glue.

Perhaps you can put a strip of plastic inside the tie, and then use screws on either side of the tie.

Alternatively you can replace the tie with something solid.

Even that tie repair kit does not have solid backup below.

Greg

p.s. in the future, have the person that caused this be more careful ha ha!

 

[curtis]

Bernd Betz, Germany, has repair kits:

LGB & Thiel turnout repair kits

Brilliant! I've sent them a message. This may be the hand holding I was needing.

Replace the points , have no operational issues,and be done with it for the next fifteen years.

Certainly a backup option but those curved points aren't cheap so I'd like to see if there were other options where I may be able to learn something. One of the things I enjoy about our hobby is different solutions people have to similar problem. If it comes down it though, I will bite the bullet.

You need to secure the rail, and not with glue.

Perhaps you can put a strip of plastic inside the tie, and then use screws on either side of the tie.

Alternatively you can replace the tie with something solid.

Even that tie repair kit does not have solid backup below.

Greg

p.s. in the future, have the person that caused this be more careful ha ha!

One was my fault. The other was my wife's and it was during the construction phase. Given Nikki was the other 50% of the planning permission for the 135m of track - I'll give her a pass on this one!

 

[ntpntpntp]

I've not had this, but my fix would be:
Turn the point upside down and fill the ends of ties/sleepers with epoxy resin to create a decent solid mount.
Drill through and create a threaded hole in the underside of the rail.
Secure the rail with brass screws from the underside.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

In the USA, we have a product called JB weld, which is a metal filled epoxy, if you must tap it.

I would not try tapping the epoxy, but just do a through hole and either brass or stainless hardware.

epoxy can be tapped, yes, but why? It's not nearly as strong threads as a metal nut... the end of the screw and nut will be in the ballast.

and cutting a chunk of plastic just near the ends of the tie may be a lot easier, especially if there are other things in that tie relating to the switch design or points or throwbar, etc.

Greg

 

[dunnyrail]

As Greg has said, a short piece of flat brass or nikel silver held down with small ba or metric screw will do the job. Much cheeper than a new bit of track or point. Apologies for the crude sketch.

 

[justme igor]

I would go with gregs first solution. Replace the tie, with something that looks like a tie.
I think a 2 layer option would be the best. One layer under the tracks and glue.
Second layer in between the tracks