steven large
USA G SCALES OF 30 TO 50S THEMES.ASLO KIT BASHING
Re:Bridge building on the cheap!
awesome idea....keep postin ere...
awesome idea....keep postin ere...
Bridge building on the cheap!
- Thread starter trammayo
- Start date
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:Bridge building on the cheap!
Will keep posting Steven (as long as there is something to post
).
Well I got on with the next abutment framework and clad it yesterday. Painted it this morning afore doc's and took the pics when I came back.
The basic frame is a nominal 15mm square timber cut from the non-returnable pallets ........
...... and the cladding is 4mm scrap ply (ex sheet material cover packing). It is not that much inferior to bought ply - the only difference is that with this you don't have to wait for it to delaminate or crack (it's already "matured").
When putting the ply on, I actually mitre the corners to stop raggy ends showing, and use PVA and 18g nails (the nail gun).
The deck of the new bridge will cover the opening on this pier and the metal bridge will rest (with locating guides) on the other half .....
Also I drew on MS Word a piccy of how this third bridge might look when I start building it today. It will have a deck and ballustrades of course ......
Will keep posting Steven (as long as there is something to post
).Well I got on with the next abutment framework and clad it yesterday. Painted it this morning afore doc's and took the pics when I came back.
The basic frame is a nominal 15mm square timber cut from the non-returnable pallets ........
...... and the cladding is 4mm scrap ply (ex sheet material cover packing). It is not that much inferior to bought ply - the only difference is that with this you don't have to wait for it to delaminate or crack (it's already "matured").
When putting the ply on, I actually mitre the corners to stop raggy ends showing, and use PVA and 18g nails (the nail gun).
The deck of the new bridge will cover the opening on this pier and the metal bridge will rest (with locating guides) on the other half .....
Also I drew on MS Word a piccy of how this third bridge might look when I start building it today. It will have a deck and ballustrades of course ......
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:Bridge building on the cheap!
So, confined to the shed yesterday afternoon, I started on the third bridge. Same inferior wood as the abutment frames with the addition of uPVC for the arch rib.
The latter was an offcut from my fascia board makeover and is quite flexible. To retain its shape I warmed it up carefully and then let it cool down in position. Its worked so far.
The second one is being laid out on the simple jig (more pallet wood) ready for this afternoon.
So, confined to the shed yesterday afternoon, I started on the third bridge. Same inferior wood as the abutment frames with the addition of uPVC for the arch rib.
The latter was an offcut from my fascia board makeover and is quite flexible. To retain its shape I warmed it up carefully and then let it cool down in position. Its worked so far.
The second one is being laid out on the simple jig (more pallet wood) ready for this afternoon.
playmofire
Registered
Re:Bridge building on the cheap!
This is very impressive civil engineering, Mick, as it the neat and simple jig. Can't wait to see thje finished product. (My nephew-in-law who is a civil engineer is coming up this weekend. I think I'll show him this thread to try and kickstart an interest in G scale railways as I could do with a bridge.)
This is very impressive civil engineering, Mick, as it the neat and simple jig. Can't wait to see thje finished product. (My nephew-in-law who is a civil engineer is coming up this weekend. I think I'll show him this thread to try and kickstart an interest in G scale railways as I could do with a bridge.)
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:Bridge building on the cheap!
Well thanks Gordon, but he might see it and say what a load of rollocks For me its been an exercise (well still is) in trying to bridge a 15 foot gap as cheaply, but - more importantly - and as light as possible. Even I can't wait to see it finished
Well thanks Gordon, but he might see it and say what a load of rollocks
For me its been an exercise (well still is) in trying to bridge a 15 foot gap as cheaply, but - more importantly - and as light as possible. Even I can't wait to see it finished
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:Bridge building on the cheap!
Well I made some more progress yesterday when things came together to resemble a bridge. Instead of building a further two arched sections, I decided to make a substantial central spine not so much to support traffic but to support the abutments.
If I decide to attach the piers it will be very much a "dumbell" situation so I might leave it as three seperate components.
and apologies for the quality of the last pic..
Well I made some more progress yesterday when things came together to resemble a bridge. Instead of building a further two arched sections, I decided to make a substantial central spine not so much to support traffic but to support the abutments.
If I decide to attach the piers it will be very much a "dumbell" situation so I might leave it as three seperate components.
and apologies for the quality of the last pic..
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:Bridge building on the cheap!
As long as I don't need a passport after Cameron's opt out!
Tony said:Watch out you lot in the western princapality at this rate Mick will be in Anglesea by christmas ..
Tony
As long as I don't need a passport after Cameron's opt out!Re:Bridge building on the cheap!
Love that arch bridge! I've just built a Wickes ally girder bridge held together with precision tech screws. I'm happy with it but would have preferred some form of curve as it is 1.9m long and an arch (underneath) would have been more pleasing to the eye.
Love that arch bridge! I've just built a Wickes ally girder bridge held together with precision tech screws. I'm happy with it but would have preferred some form of curve as it is 1.9m long and an arch (underneath) would have been more pleasing to the eye.
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:Bridge building on the cheap!
I had a bit of block (like writer's block) on how I was going to make the bridge parapets. Anyway, I had a bit of an inspiration Thursday when I remembered I had stashed away some strips of soffit ventilator left over from when I fitted new fascias and soffits this year.
I had already fitted the bridge deck (6mm exterior ply) and worked out how I was going to make the parapets look a little like cast iron railings. As can ve seen in the pics, I trimmed one edge down and used the trimmings as filler to create the top of the railings and the other edge was an unequal trim so that one side would cover the edge of the ply. The plastic then sits nicely over a piece of timber sawn to size.
To cut the edges down (after a bit of experimenting) I fitted a piece of uPVC tightly in the side to be cut down (and flush with the edge) and used a marking gauge to scribe a deep line along the strip. This then provided a guide for the trimming knife to finish scoring the plastic.
As the strip would, after time, bend a little (or a lot maybe) I fitted pillasters made from scrap uPVC - againt using the marking gauge to score a guide line - to either side. To give further strength/thickness, I cut up some mini trunking capping.
I did a simple load test and also brought out one of the metal truss bridges to see how the line accross would project.
Usual pic quality I'm afraid...
I had a bit of block (like writer's block) on how I was going to make the bridge parapets. Anyway, I had a bit of an inspiration Thursday when I remembered I had stashed away some strips of soffit ventilator left over from when I fitted new fascias and soffits this year.
I had already fitted the bridge deck (6mm exterior ply) and worked out how I was going to make the parapets look a little like cast iron railings. As can ve seen in the pics, I trimmed one edge down and used the trimmings as filler to create the top of the railings and the other edge was an unequal trim so that one side would cover the edge of the ply. The plastic then sits nicely over a piece of timber sawn to size.
To cut the edges down (after a bit of experimenting) I fitted a piece of uPVC tightly in the side to be cut down (and flush with the edge) and used a marking gauge to scribe a deep line along the strip. This then provided a guide for the trimming knife to finish scoring the plastic.
As the strip would, after time, bend a little (or a lot maybe) I fitted pillasters made from scrap uPVC - againt using the marking gauge to score a guide line - to either side. To give further strength/thickness, I cut up some mini trunking capping.
I did a simple load test and also brought out one of the metal truss bridges to see how the line accross would project.
Usual pic quality I'm afraid...
nicebutdim
Registered
Re:Bridge building on the cheap!
Wow! That looks excellent.
Wow! That looks excellent.
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:Bridge building on the cheap!
Thanks Tim & Mike. I was beginning to think (quite rightly) that the weather wasn't going to alter very soon but, a quick glance at today's forecast - dry all day - convinced me to recommense my bridge building. I got everything out of the shed and set things up. Track needed sorting out and the central pier needed to be made.
This latter item was soon made from scrap ply and the second truss bridge set up with a temporary concrete (block) pier at the end. I started to sort the track out and it started to rain - not heavy, just wet. This persisted for an hour or more so it was back in the shed with everything. The last thing I need is pneumonia or similar. Anyway took a couple of pics. Will have to try again to get the track and connections sorted if it ever stops raining.
One thing that was obvious was the lack of room to put large radius curves in off the bridge. I did move the second bridge a little so the track would have a slight curve in it but I might have to move the fence a little (put it up to stop cows coming in the garden) or slightly shorten the second bridge?
Thanks Tim & Mike. I was beginning to think (quite rightly) that the weather wasn't going to alter very soon but, a quick glance at today's forecast - dry all day - convinced me to recommense my bridge building. I got everything out of the shed and set things up. Track needed sorting out and the central pier needed to be made.
This latter item was soon made from scrap ply and the second truss bridge set up with a temporary concrete (block) pier at the end. I started to sort the track out and it started to rain - not heavy, just wet. This persisted for an hour or more so it was back in the shed with everything. The last thing I need is pneumonia or similar. Anyway took a couple of pics. Will have to try again to get the track and connections sorted if it ever stops raining.
One thing that was obvious was the lack of room to put large radius curves in off the bridge. I did move the second bridge a little so the track would have a slight curve in it but I might have to move the fence a little (put it up to stop cows coming in the garden) or slightly shorten the second bridge?
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:Bridge building on the cheap!
After some pondering, I decided to shorten the second bridge as the easiest option. Drilling out the pop rivets and cutting down (then rivetting up the repositioned parts) took just over an hour. The bridge deck is now 14" shorter - giving 54" overall but the truss portions are now 18" less, given the need to preserve the symetry.
It was actually sunny yesterday (in parts anyway), so I set everything up, made a new wooden support pier - ran short of plywood - and set the shortened bridge up.
I managed to fix the track on the first (truss) bridge and made a start on the second.
Both bridges will end up with wooden decking (treated) and I will keep them outside to save carting them in and out of the shed. I still need to fit cross bracing but that will be the last job. I was going to finish them today but the weather is rather soft at the moment.
The new pier will have a short bridge section cantilevered of of it to joint the proposed new track work. I didn't want a pier too near the edge of the drive because it might get caught when I back the trailer round - hence the original bridge length completely clearing the drive. The other benefit of shortening is that all three bridges are now in line again.
Pics and usual caveat about quality (the sun got in the way)....
After some pondering, I decided to shorten the second bridge as the easiest option. Drilling out the pop rivets and cutting down (then rivetting up the repositioned parts) took just over an hour. The bridge deck is now 14" shorter - giving 54" overall but the truss portions are now 18" less, given the need to preserve the symetry.
It was actually sunny yesterday (in parts anyway), so I set everything up, made a new wooden support pier - ran short of plywood - and set the shortened bridge up.
I managed to fix the track on the first (truss) bridge and made a start on the second.
Both bridges will end up with wooden decking (treated) and I will keep them outside to save carting them in and out of the shed. I still need to fit cross bracing but that will be the last job. I was going to finish them today but the weather is rather soft at the moment.
The new pier will have a short bridge section cantilevered of of it to joint the proposed new track work. I didn't want a pier too near the edge of the drive because it might get caught when I back the trailer round - hence the original bridge length completely clearing the drive. The other benefit of shortening is that all three bridges are now in line again.
Pics and usual caveat about quality (the sun got in the way
)....
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:Bridge building on the cheap!
Today hasn't been too bad weather wise so I got on with fixing the track and a bit of decking to the bridges. I've decided that, apart from a couple of cross-braces (still to be cut and rivetted in place), the truss bridges are now complete. I could add more wooden decking but I have to think of my lifting capabilities!
I managed to find some pieces of ply and clad the remaining pier and gave it a coat of undercoat last night. The decking was treated yesterday so was also dry enough to use today. The piers need cosmetically enhancing (when I get round to it) but it all fits together OK. Everything just pushes together until the track reaches the end of the bridges where they will connect by dropping into opened-up track connectors.
The bridges now sleep out up against the garden wall - after I shifted a few concrete blocks!
Today hasn't been too bad weather wise so I got on with fixing the track and a bit of decking to the bridges. I've decided that, apart from a couple of cross-braces (still to be cut and rivetted in place), the truss bridges are now complete. I could add more wooden decking but I have to think of my lifting capabilities!
I managed to find some pieces of ply and clad the remaining pier and gave it a coat of undercoat last night. The decking was treated yesterday so was also dry enough to use today. The piers need cosmetically enhancing (when I get round to it) but it all fits together OK. Everything just pushes together until the track reaches the end of the bridges where they will connect by dropping into opened-up track connectors.
The bridges now sleep out up against the garden wall - after I shifted a few concrete blocks!
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:Bridge building on the cheap!
I weighed the bridges this morning - the 6'9" one weighs in at 6.9kg (a fraction over 1kg per foot) and the shorter one (4'6") = 5kg. That includes the double track too.
When not in use they are parked behind the garden wall.
I weighed the bridges this morning - the 6'9" one weighs in at 6.9kg (a fraction over 1kg per foot) and the shorter one (4'6") = 5kg. That includes the double track too.
When not in use they are parked behind the garden wall.