korm kormsen said:
Yes they are quite a bit longer Korm. I cut about 3 inch, 8 cm from the chassis....
Bish-Bash-Bosh! A Coach Chop....
- Thread starter Gizzy
- Start date
Yes they are quite a bit longer Korm. I cut about 3 inch, 8 cm from the chassis....
I was looking underneath the bogies last night, and I noticed that there seems to be a recepticle of some sort that could be adapted to take power from the back of the wheels for lighting/power.
Can anyone enlighten me if there is a kit to do this on the LGB style bogie please?
I was looking at the (eye wateringly expensive) cost of the LGB pickup axles and I could easily change all the wheels on 2 coaches and still have money left over for a pint looking at the price of just one of these. I've replaced the old plastic wheels with Bachmann metal 31mm ones to lower the C of G and add weight, so if I could pick up the power from these, it would keep the costs down a tad....
Can anyone enlighten me if there is a kit to do this on the LGB style bogie please?
I was looking at the (eye wateringly expensive) cost of the LGB pickup axles and I could easily change all the wheels on 2 coaches and still have money left over for a pint looking at the price of just one of these. I've replaced the old plastic wheels with Bachmann metal 31mm ones to lower the C of G and add weight, so if I could pick up the power from these, it would keep the costs down a tad....
Haven't got a photo atm Nod, but I'll have a look at your LGB 63193 suggestion....Nodrog1826 said:
The topic below may be of interest.
http://www.gscalecentral.net/tm?m=29828&high=coach+lighting < Link To http://www.gscalecentral....mp;high=coach+lighting
I prefer LED battery lighting as it's cheap, the lights don't flicker, and they stay on all the time with analogue systems.
The batteries need recharging after a few hours, but I don't run in the dark for more than three or four hours at a time.
Gizzy, if you want track pickup I'm almost certain you could fit the LGB carbon contacts directly into the bogie without the need for the plastic mounting piece that comes with the contact set.
http://www.gscalecentral.net/tm?m=29828&high=coach+lighting < Link To http://www.gscalecentral....mp;high=coach+lighting
I prefer LED battery lighting as it's cheap, the lights don't flicker, and they stay on all the time with analogue systems.
The batteries need recharging after a few hours, but I don't run in the dark for more than three or four hours at a time.
Gizzy, if you want track pickup I'm almost certain you could fit the LGB carbon contacts directly into the bogie without the need for the plastic mounting piece that comes with the contact set.
Gizzy said:
This is a great thread Gizzy. Fascinating project.
How about some Piko railbus pickups as "sweepers" onto your wheels? Or you could butcher most of the other Piko pickups. They come with self tapping screws and ready made holes for attachment, which is handy.
That is very useful, many thanks Neil.Neil Robinson said:
I liked the idea of the battery box, although that is the very part of the chassis that I cut out, so I may have to find another location if I decide to use this method.
I've 'borrowed' your picture to highlight in green where I thought I saw those recepticles for brushes; however I'm not sure now if the one's I saw line up with the wheels, looking at this photo?
Can someone confirm the LGB number for the brushes please? Is is the same one as Gordon identified, i.e. LGB 63193? I looked at these on Dragon's website, but they look different to how I imagined. The main reason for wanting track pickup, is that I was planning to use bi colour red/yellow LEDs for the head/tail lights, which would change depending on direction/polarity.
I have already made a similar circuit for my Shoema loco a few years ago....
whatlep said:Gizzy said:
This is a great thread Gizzy. Fascinating project.
How about some Piko railbus pickups as "sweepers" onto your wheels? Or you could butcher most of the other Piko pickups. They come with self tapping screws and ready made holes for attachment, which is handy.
Interesting idea Mr Tigger!
Would you happen to know the Piko part number for these pickups please?
i've got a little bag here, with four brushes and two plastic mountings.
the number is: 3019/3
(but it could have changed. i bought it in '94)
the number is: 3019/3
(but it could have changed. i bought it in '94)
gizzy you want lgb 63120 or massoth 8313508 depening which you can find in stock.
the item that Gordon has pointed to is a bit of a waste as the holder for the brushs is already molded in to the truck on the newer lgb stuff thus you would be paying for some thing not needed.
the item that Gordon has pointed to is a bit of a waste as the holder for the brushs is already molded in to the truck on the newer lgb stuff thus you would be paying for some thing not needed.
wandgrudd said:
Thanks Andrew!
I might even have some of these?
I guess you have to solder wires onto these somehow though?
Gizzy said:
Yep! Piko part for the Railbus is 36113 (one pair of pickups). From pictures, I strongly suspect that the BR80 pickups (36112) would do too, if you cut off the unewanted excess. Price for both parts is the same.
As I write Dragon G scale are out of stock, but Gaugemaster have them available.
Gizzy said:
yes you solder wires on, the holders that are molded on to the trucks should have slits up them to allow the then thicker part of the pick up brush to slide in, by thicker part i mean the added thickness of the solder and wire you have just attached to the brush.
wandgrudd said:
I used to use that method. However not all the brush holders have a slot and I'm getting even lazier in my old age.
When used in LGB locos those brushes just rest against the internal wires so on the last lot I fitted I just bared the ends of the wire, trapped these at the rear of the brushes and used the spring pressure to maintain contact without bothering to solder them.
Quiet evening so far at work.
Found a hole punch tool in our workshop so I cut out the window openings for the new doors that are to be fitted to my coach bash project. Wish I'd found this before I made the front end!
The material I'm using for the doors is 60 thou Plasticard, as used for the front.
Pictures to follow later....
Found a hole punch tool in our workshop so I cut out the window openings for the new doors that are to be fitted to my coach bash project. Wish I'd found this before I made the front end!
The material I'm using for the doors is 60 thou Plasticard, as used for the front.
Pictures to follow later....
Photo as promised. Unpainted and unglazed.Gizzy said:
The doors are wider than they need to be, so as to be able to fix them in place.
They should hopefully fit into groves in the floor and roof, but they won't be made to slide as the window glazing in the coach sides will be in the way....
