Battery Conversion of a Ten Wheeler

JimmyB

Semi-Retired; more time for trains.
Work on my conversion has moved another step closer to completion, with a "spray job" and decals added, time to start adding details :)

IMG_0967.jpg
 

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
29,248
3,509
North West Norfolk
That's a very tidy job. Nice one.

Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound
Yeah, I'm going to ask him to do mine - you don't want to look inside my battery conversions :tmi::tmi::tmi:
 

JimmyB

Semi-Retired; more time for trains.
Having painted my 10 wheeler, I am now starting to assemble and detail, here is the progress so far - Amazing, you cannot hide anything from the camera, and it seems the loco body may need a small flash of paint as it seems to be a be light on the chimney:

10-Wheeler-Paint-1.jpg

10-Wheeler-Paint-3.jpg
 

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
27,416
2,830
Tamworth, Staffs.
Are you sure it was not reflected light from the wall?

Try moving the loco to natural light, and check..
 

JimmyB

Semi-Retired; more time for trains.
Are you sure it was not reflected light from the wall?

Try moving the loco to natural light, and check..
Yep, moved it to the light, and you can see the grey primer just showing through in a couple of areas, shouldn't take long to strip for a quick spray, just need to get out and buy some paint :)
 

JimmyB

Semi-Retired; more time for trains.
The 10 wheeler is not quite finished, a little extra detail is needed, however as the whether is dry and bright I thought a quick play test run would be in order.

A couple of minor issues, the first is the "lightness" of the front bogie, a known issue so a little extra weight. The second was the chuff, I am using the Annie chuff sensor as advised connected to a MLS, and though the sound is aligned, occasionally usually when starting off I get a double chuff, and then it settles down, and again occasionally it misses a chuff, my assumption is that it is the sensor, being mechanical in principle, though any thoughts would be appreciated.

A short video of the test, pulling 2 JS coaches up my 1:25 gradient without issue, most of my other locos often struggle, and this is with a Li-Po 3S so only 11.1 volts :)

 

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
27,416
2,830
Tamworth, Staffs.
As you say, a mechanical chuff - trigger.

You will get a little contact-bounce and the occasional miss of a beat.

I have found (certainly, on brand new models) that the efficacy of the chuff, gets better over time.
Give the contacts a gentle clean. There is very little current involved, so the slightest bit of grease, will have an adverse effect.

PhilP
 

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
29,248
3,509
North West Norfolk
As the chuff is principally mechanical, I don't know whether the MLS could act slightly strangely if the axle actually stops in the chuff actuating position.

If so, as the switch has a little bit of a dwell angle, it may give that double chuff - dunno, just guessing. I don't know if it happens on my Connie, as I've never been that alert :oops:
 

Fred2179G

Registered
20 Apr 2017
549
132
USA
the first is the "lightness" of the front bogie, a known issue so a little extra weight
I advocate not adding weight. The problem is the rigid long wheelbase. Underneath there are 2 metal strips down the central spine that pick up power and align the axles. 2 nylon clips hold them in place - one has an arrow pointing forward, in case you are using track power. Remove the 2 nylon clips, and the whole thing becomes floppy and equalized. It will stay on any rough track. Mine worked for years without any additional weight.


tenwheelertrucknotes.jpg

I imagine you have cut the wires. However, if you ever visit a layout with track power and want to run your loco at the same time as the track power is on, do put some insulation (electrical tape, etc.,) between the 2 metal strips, or you will upset your host by making random short circuits! Ask me how I know.
 

JimmyB

Semi-Retired; more time for trains.
I advocate not adding weight. The problem is the rigid long wheelbase. Underneath there are 2 metal strips down the central spine that pick up power and align the axles. 2 nylon clips hold them in place - one has an arrow pointing forward, in case you are using track power. Remove the 2 nylon clips, and the whole thing becomes floppy and equalized. It will stay on any rough track. Mine worked for years without any additional weight.


View attachment 277824

I imagine you have cut the wires. However, if you ever visit a layout with track power and want to run your loco at the same time as the track power is on, do put some insulation (electrical tape, etc.,) between the 2 metal strips, or you will upset your host by making random short circuits! Ask me how I know.
Fred, interesting i will look in to this :)
 

Timmo

Registered
25 Apr 2016
30
2
Bath
Hi Jimmy

That's a really nice paint finish on your 4-6-0. Would you mind letting me know what paint you used and where you bought it from.

And secondly I was wondering who you purchased your decals from. I need some for my Connie and was hoping that I can source them in the UK. Stan Cedarleaf's decals are excellent but post and import duties are against it.

Tim
 

JimmyB

Semi-Retired; more time for trains.
Hi Jimmy

That's a really nice paint finish on your 4-6-0. Would you mind letting me know what paint you used and where you bought it from.

And secondly I was wondering who you purchased your decals from. I need some for my Connie and was hoping that I can source them in the UK. Stan Cedarleaf's decals are excellent but post and import duties are against it.

Tim
Hi Tim, the paint is Hycote Double Acrylic, colour is BMW Black 086 (no lacquer required) bought from The Range. The decals are from Stan, total cost inc p&p etc $58.00, the work included some page work and design, I was very happy, I just supplied my outline crest, and letting type and size. Stan then sent a proof sheet, a couple of minor adjustments. From starting an email "conversation" to receiving the finished items was less than 2 weeks.
 

JimmyB

Semi-Retired; more time for trains.
The loco has is now considered complete, a test run has been carried out but poor lighting has prevented and videos of this. Below is a photo of the complete loco, and also a link to my blog providing details, if you have any questions please ask :)

Bachmann 10-Wheeler Battery Conversion – Tumble Down Falls

10-Wheeler-Complete.JPG
 

dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
18,714
3,813
72
St.Neots Cambridgeshire UK
The loco has is now considered complete, a test run has been carried out but poor lighting has prevented and videos of this. Below is a photo of the complete loco, and also a link to my blog providing details, if you have any questions please ask :)

Bachmann 10-Wheeler Battery Conversion – Tumble Down Falls

View attachment 278416
Aha Jimmy, possibly just one small job a plate between Tender and Loco. I have used Pond Liner with success, but a bit of stiff black bin liner can also work. To help with curves helpful to make the unstuck end curved. Though this is a pic of a 00 loco the concept worked on my US LGB 2-6-0.
218417E6-2AFB-4973-9639-2A96529D6DB9.jpeg
 

Timmo

Registered
25 Apr 2016
30
2
Bath
Hi Jimmy, another question, if I may.

A nice looking ladder on the rear of the tender. Did you scratch build this or source it from a supplier? Interested to know, as I need some!

Best,

Tim