Dan, after exploring the internet, and looking at lead prices (£2.00/1Kg) the big cost is p&p, but I have found a roofer/lead locally, just awaiting a response. My plan was to cast it in wood (carefully), but I am just looking for a starting point.It’s been said before that so long as the Wheels can spin if the the loco stalls , then that’s fine.
For testing you can use bags of old coins,
For sources of weights, tyre wheel weights, fishing weights or even cast your own it’s quite easy with just a blow torch and a wood mould that’s what i do when I need to
Any questions just ask
The regular (non-battery) 4-6-0 locos have a large cast iron weight over the drivers. I keep one on my bench for holding things down as needed. For weighting nowadays I like fishing weights, which are easy to buy and easy to install in obscure spaces.while you have the loco in bits, you need to add lead weight wherever you can.
Oh, misread that and thought you were mixing PVA with the lead - that's a no-noThe way I do it, is simple wooden mold, sealed with lots of PVA prevent leakage of molten lead.
I then melt it using a blowtorch Using an empty tin can as a crucible
And carefully pour into the mold.
the advantage is it’s all cheap and disposable so if it goes wrong nothing expensive is lost.
What are you going to bind them in place with, Jimmy?
I use a two-part resin or epoxy it runs nicely into the interstices
Now filled with the weights, the loco weight is around 5 1/2 lbs, these will be held in place by polyurethane resin. and a quick gradient test will be carried out. I still have further locations in the loco body for weight, so increasing it should not be a problem.