Battery Conversion of a Ten Wheeler

JimmyB

Semi-Retired; more time for trains.
Now for a question of weight, as this started off as a battery loco, I don't have any weight, I am currently trying to source some lead code 3 or 4. So my question is roughly what wast the weight of the lead weight, or loco complete with weight, but more importantly what do you consider an upgrade weight should be, many thanks, I am sure i will get some sensible answers :mask:
 

a98087

Registered
8 Nov 2009
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Wiltshire
It’s been said before that so long as the Wheels can spin if the the loco stalls , then that’s fine.

For testing you can use bags of old coins,

For sources of weights, tyre wheel weights, fishing weights or even cast your own it’s quite easy with just a blow torch and a wood mould that’s what i do when I need to

Any questions just ask

Dan
 

JimmyB

Semi-Retired; more time for trains.
It’s been said before that so long as the Wheels can spin if the the loco stalls , then that’s fine.

For testing you can use bags of old coins,

For sources of weights, tyre wheel weights, fishing weights or even cast your own it’s quite easy with just a blow torch and a wood mould that’s what i do when I need to

Any questions just ask

Dan
Dan, after exploring the internet, and looking at lead prices (£2.00/1Kg) the big cost is p&p, but I have found a roofer/lead locally, just awaiting a response. My plan was to cast it in wood (carefully), but I am just looking for a starting point.
 

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
29,240
3,508
North West Norfolk
I've got a couple - different treatments applied to them. I'll see if I can use SWMBO's scales later ;);)

Just gotta stay in da house until Parcelfarce delivers.
 

a98087

Registered
8 Nov 2009
1,676
154
33
Wiltshire
The way I do it, is simple wooden mold, sealed with lots of PVA prevent leakage of molten lead.

I then melt it using a blowtorch Using an empty tin can as a crucible

And carefully pour into the mold.

the advantage is it’s all cheap and disposable so if it goes wrong nothing expensive is lost.
Dan
 

Fred2179G

Registered
20 Apr 2017
549
132
USA
while you have the loco in bits, you need to add lead weight wherever you can.
The regular (non-battery) 4-6-0 locos have a large cast iron weight over the drivers. I keep one on my bench for holding things down as needed. For weighting nowadays I like fishing weights, which are easy to buy and easy to install in obscure spaces.
 

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
29,240
3,508
North West Norfolk
I've got a couple - different treatments applied to them. I'll see if I can use SWMBO's scales later ;);)

Just gotta stay in da house until Parcelfarce delivers.
In avoirdupois, Jimmy 6lbs all up loco weight :):)
 

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
29,240
3,508
North West Norfolk
The way I do it, is simple wooden mold, sealed with lots of PVA prevent leakage of molten lead.

I then melt it using a blowtorch Using an empty tin can as a crucible

And carefully pour into the mold.

the advantage is it’s all cheap and disposable so if it goes wrong nothing expensive is lost.
Dan
Oh, misread that and thought you were mixing PVA with the lead - that's a no-no :shake::shake:
 
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dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
18,688
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St.Neots Cambridgeshire UK
One nite of extreme caution if casting lead in wood that has been treated with PVA. Allow plenty of time to dry off, lead and dampness can be an explosive combination as a friend of mine discovered many years ago using lead in plaster moulds that had nit fully dried out. Suggest a day or three in the airing cupboard if you have one. No good me suggesting in full sun at this time of the year.
 

JimmyB

Semi-Retired; more time for trains.
a98087 a98087 wood was what I was considering, but was a little wary, it will be the way forward.
dunnyrail dunnyrail thanks for the tip about the damp, never even considered that.
Rhinochugger Rhinochugger I have 3.75 kg (8 1/4 lbs avoirdupois) so should be plenty and some.

I will let everybody know how I get on.
 

JimmyB

Semi-Retired; more time for trains.
Having received my weight 10 bags of divers boot weights, I was a little surprised to find it was not lead, but not an issue. My plan was to start where the "Annie" would sit, so out of plasticard a holder was made:

10-Wheeler-weight-1.jpg
Why the chamfered top, to fill as much room inside the body as I could.

As you can see if fits snugly in place

10-Wheeler-weight-2.jpg

Now filled with the weights, the loco weight is around 5 1/2 lbs, these will be held in place by polyurethane resin. and a quick gradient test will be carried out. I still have further locations in the loco body for weight, so increasing it should not be a problem.

10-Wheeler-weight-3.jpg
 

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
27,401
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Tamworth, Staffs.
Interesting..
If not Lead.. Then any idea what?

PhilP.
 

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
29,240
3,508
North West Norfolk
What are you going to bind them in place with, Jimmy?

I use a two-part resin or epoxy :nod::nod: it runs nicely into the interstices :cool::cool:
 

JimmyB

Semi-Retired; more time for trains.
What are you going to bind them in place with, Jimmy?

I use a two-part resin or epoxy :nod::nod: it runs nicely into the interstices :cool::cool:
Now filled with the weights, the loco weight is around 5 1/2 lbs, these will be held in place by polyurethane resin. and a quick gradient test will be carried out. I still have further locations in the loco body for weight, so increasing it should not be a problem.

I have some, but it has aged and does not mix well, so just awaiting a new batch to arrive :)
 

JimmyB

Semi-Retired; more time for trains.
A bit of fine weather yesterday, so a test drive of the loco weight added pulling two Bachmann coaches up my gradient, in the first photo you can see the R/C on the tender, and weight on the loco.

10-Wheeler-Test_01.jpg

This is the loco pulling the coaches up my 1:25 gradient, current weight of loco about 5 1/2lbs, and it managed this quite admirably, but have another 1/2 lbs to add :)

10-Wheeler-Test_02.jpg

New resin has just arrived, so the weight will be bonded in position.
 

JimmyB

Semi-Retired; more time for trains.
Somebody else on the forum has added a new "Annie" chassis to an old battery 10-wheeler, and identified the same issue I have, that the tanks under the front running boards interfere with the cylinder chests, my solution has been slightly different, in the I have repositioned the holes:

10-Wheeler-Tank.jpg

A filet added to the corner to accommodate one of the holes, however that in turn raised a new issue the top of the motion just caught one of the tank bands, so a small vee filed in the band seemed to sort this, and isn't really visible, when viewed from the top.
 

JimmyB

Semi-Retired; more time for trains.
I have now complete the tender chassis, and all the electronics, including the "chuff" sensor (many thanks to all those who provided assistance), and everything seems to work. I have used velco to secure the electronics place, I find this very robust 10-Wheeler-wired-tender.jpg , but if it needs to be dismantled it can be: