Battery Conversion of a Ten Wheeler

Now for a question of weight, as this started off as a battery loco, I don't have any weight, I am currently trying to source some lead code 3 or 4. So my question is roughly what wast the weight of the lead weight, or loco complete with weight, but more importantly what do you consider an upgrade weight should be, many thanks, I am sure i will get some sensible answers :mask:
 
It’s been said before that so long as the Wheels can spin if the the loco stalls , then that’s fine.

For testing you can use bags of old coins,

For sources of weights, tyre wheel weights, fishing weights or even cast your own it’s quite easy with just a blow torch and a wood mould that’s what i do when I need to

Any questions just ask

Dan
 
a98087 said:
It’s been said before that so long as the Wheels can spin if the the loco stalls , then that’s fine.

For testing you can use bags of old coins,

For sources of weights, tyre wheel weights, fishing weights or even cast your own it’s quite easy with just a blow torch and a wood mould that’s what i do when I need to

Any questions just ask

Dan
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Dan, after exploring the internet, and looking at lead prices (£2.00/1Kg) the big cost is p&p, but I have found a roofer/lead locally, just awaiting a response. My plan was to cast it in wood (carefully), but I am just looking for a starting point.
 
I've got a couple - different treatments applied to them. I'll see if I can use SWMBO's scales later ;);)

Just gotta stay in da house until Parcelfarce delivers.
 
The way I do it, is simple wooden mold, sealed with lots of PVA prevent leakage of molten lead.

I then melt it using a blowtorch Using an empty tin can as a crucible

And carefully pour into the mold.

the advantage is it’s all cheap and disposable so if it goes wrong nothing expensive is lost.
Dan
 
while you have the loco in bits, you need to add lead weight wherever you can.
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The regular (non-battery) 4-6-0 locos have a large cast iron weight over the drivers. I keep one on my bench for holding things down as needed. For weighting nowadays I like fishing weights, which are easy to buy and easy to install in obscure spaces.
 
a98087 said:
The way I do it, is simple wooden mold, sealed with lots of PVA prevent leakage of molten lead.

I then melt it using a blowtorch Using an empty tin can as a crucible

And carefully pour into the mold.

the advantage is it’s all cheap and disposable so if it goes wrong nothing expensive is lost.
Dan
Click to expand...
Oh, misread that and thought you were mixing PVA with the lead - that's a no-no :shake::shake:
 
One nite of extreme caution if casting lead in wood that has been treated with PVA. Allow plenty of time to dry off, lead and dampness can be an explosive combination as a friend of mine discovered many years ago using lead in plaster moulds that had nit fully dried out. Suggest a day or three in the airing cupboard if you have one. No good me suggesting in full sun at this time of the year.
 
Having received my weight 10 bags of divers boot weights, I was a little surprised to find it was not lead, but not an issue. My plan was to start where the "Annie" would sit, so out of plasticard a holder was made:

10-Wheeler-weight-1.jpg
Why the chamfered top, to fill as much room inside the body as I could.

As you can see if fits snugly in place

10-Wheeler-weight-2.jpg

Now filled with the weights, the loco weight is around 5 1/2 lbs, these will be held in place by polyurethane resin. and a quick gradient test will be carried out. I still have further locations in the loco body for weight, so increasing it should not be a problem.

10-Wheeler-weight-3.jpg
 
What are you going to bind them in place with, Jimmy?

I use a two-part resin or epoxy :nod::nod: it runs nicely into the interstices :cool::cool:
 
Rhinochugger said:
What are you going to bind them in place with, Jimmy?

I use a two-part resin or epoxy :nod::nod: it runs nicely into the interstices :cool::cool:
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JimmyB said:
Now filled with the weights, the loco weight is around 5 1/2 lbs, these will be held in place by polyurethane resin. and a quick gradient test will be carried out. I still have further locations in the loco body for weight, so increasing it should not be a problem.
Click to expand...

I have some, but it has aged and does not mix well, so just awaiting a new batch to arrive :)
 
A bit of fine weather yesterday, so a test drive of the loco weight added pulling two Bachmann coaches up my gradient, in the first photo you can see the R/C on the tender, and weight on the loco.

10-Wheeler-Test_01.jpg

This is the loco pulling the coaches up my 1:25 gradient, current weight of loco about 5 1/2lbs, and it managed this quite admirably, but have another 1/2 lbs to add :)

10-Wheeler-Test_02.jpg

New resin has just arrived, so the weight will be bonded in position.
 
Somebody else on the forum has added a new "Annie" chassis to an old battery 10-wheeler, and identified the same issue I have, that the tanks under the front running boards interfere with the cylinder chests, my solution has been slightly different, in the I have repositioned the holes:

10-Wheeler-Tank.jpg

A filet added to the corner to accommodate one of the holes, however that in turn raised a new issue the top of the motion just caught one of the tank bands, so a small vee filed in the band seemed to sort this, and isn't really visible, when viewed from the top.
 
I have now complete the tender chassis, and all the electronics, including the "chuff" sensor (many thanks to all those who provided assistance), and everything seems to work. I have used velco to secure the electronics place, I find this very robust10-Wheeler-wired-tender.jpg, but if it needs to be dismantled it can be:
 
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