Bought a Stainz to anglicize not sure which to bash now the 20212 the one I bought to bash from evil-bay or the original 2020 I had ? the new 20212 everything works surprisingly as it was a good price. image below shows what it might get turned into 
Anglicize a Stainz
- Thread starter LGB-Sid
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Ge Rik has made a really nice conversion and Graham Freestone did a conversion on mine extending the side tanks etc.
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Thanks not sure weather to modify the existing cab or make a new one yet, Think I am going to bash the older 2020 version as it has some tatty bits to it and a couple of repairs to the front pipe work, so that cab has the raised LGB logo and number on it rather than transfers / printed like the newer version and the LGB and number has to go
It might be easier to make a cab from scratch with round windows the back two are a bit low to add what I want on the back of the cab. Found the swiftsixteen Spectacle-Window-Set but they are 28mm dia overall so too big. Then started to think what else uses round windows and had a look at model boat portholes at 16mm dia they are just a brass flange on the back of a brass tube so would probably look correct (never seen a real steam engine cab inside closeup ) and they come glazed or UN-glased. time to buy some card and do a mock-up of a replacement cab I think. I have drawn it in 3d today so have an idea of the changes that's needed now.
It might be easier to make a cab from scratch with round windows the back two are a bit low to add what I want on the back of the cab. Found the swiftsixteen Spectacle-Window-Set but they are 28mm dia overall so too big. Then started to think what else uses round windows and had a look at model boat portholes at 16mm dia they are just a brass flange on the back of a brass tube so would probably look correct (never seen a real steam engine cab inside closeup ) and they come glazed or UN-glased. time to buy some card and do a mock-up of a replacement cab I think. I have drawn it in 3d today so have an idea of the changes that's needed now.
I have wondered if cutting the bunker off the front of the cab, and moving them forward, would make 'side tanks' a simpler possibility??
My thinking is the curves on the front of the tanks would already be there.. Slab-sides (and top) should be easier to fabricate..
To those who do this sort of thing..
What sort of thickness plasticard do you use? - Less than 1.5mm seems too flimsy, to me.
My thinking is the curves on the front of the tanks would already be there.. Slab-sides (and top) should be easier to fabricate..
To those who do this sort of thing..
What sort of thickness plasticard do you use? - Less than 1.5mm seems too flimsy, to me.
Thanks not sure weather to modify the existing cab or make a new one yet, Think I am going to bash the older 2020 version as it has some tatty bits to it and a couple of repairs to the front pipe work, so that cab has the raised LGB logo and number on it rather than transfers / printed like the newer version and the LGB and number has to go
It might be easier to make a cab from scratch with round windows the back two are a bit low to add what I want on the back of the cab. Found the swiftsixteen Spectacle-Window-Set but they are 28mm dia overall so too big. Then started to think what else uses round windows and had a look at model boat portholes at 16mm dia they are just a brass flange on the back of a brass tube so would probably look correct (never seen a real steam engine cab inside closeup ) and they come glazed or UN-glased. time to buy some card and do a mock-up of a replacement cab I think. I have drawn it in 3d today so have an idea of the changes that's needed now.
Have you tried Glendale Junction? They sell lamp glasses and frames which might work, assuming I've understood what you're after.
I found these model Boat portholes 16mm dia pack of 10 Brass with plexe fitted. £6.50 plus delivery might be worth a shot, found a few images on the net from inside the cab looking out of round windows ? or what ever the correct name is and they look like Portholes
What's the best way to remove the driver figure from the red base ? no idea what this one is stuck with but there is no way he is going to just pull off, looks like it's the original factory glue what ever they used back then what would release the glue without removing the paint from the figure or damaging the plastic he is stuck too ?
what would release the glue without removing the paint from the figure or damaging the plastic he is stuck too ?
![$_35[1].jpg](https://cdn.gscalecentral.net/2017/05/83355_dca5661e695c10e1aca66e88c81e20e0.jpg "$_35[1].jpg")
The 20212 I bought is in too good a condition to Bash so decided to bash the 2020 version, after looking on the nett at conversions, there seems to be two ways most have done it have a longer tank that follows the original height of what exists looks like the easiest way to do it as below, mock-up made out of foam board.
The harder way have a full depth tank the same depth as the cab, more work... again mock-up out of foam board.
The Images I have found where a coal basket has been added to the back of the cab they have cut the red chassis to add extra length so the bottom sits on the chassis, adding it adds around 10mm to the chassis and 20mm to the overall length of the engine but another 20mm overhang on the back end looks like it should be a 0-6-0 not a 0-4-0 so not sure about adding that bit now.
Next need to decided which looks better short tank or taller tank ?
The harder way have a full depth tank the same depth as the cab, more work... again mock-up out of foam board.
The Images I have found where a coal basket has been added to the back of the cab they have cut the red chassis to add extra length so the bottom sits on the chassis, adding it adds around 10mm to the chassis and 20mm to the overall length of the engine but another 20mm overhang on the back end looks like it should be a 0-6-0 not a 0-4-0 so not sure about adding that bit now.
Next need to decided which looks better short tank or taller tank ?
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Decided on doing the deeper side tank version as it will probably look more in keeping so time to order some sheet styrene to make the tanks So far soaking this driver in warm water hasn't softened the glue under his feet 
worked on the other one this one might need a big hammer . The windows in the cab are glued in as well unlike the other where they clipped in , but they have to come out one way or another.
Not decided what to add on top the side tanks yet , probably ought to look where they keep the coal if there was no basket on the back of the cab.
So far soaking this driver in warm water hasn't softened the glue under his feet worked on the other one this one might need a big hammer . The windows in the cab are glued in as well unlike the other where they clipped in , but they have to come out one way or another. Not decided what to add on top the side tanks yet , probably ought to look where they keep the coal if there was no basket on the back of the cab.
I think you've made the right choice ref length of tanks and the lower footplate.
Would it look better with the tank extended to be level with the smoke box and the smoke box wrapper base (think that's the right term) extended to the footplate to mask where you can see the red chunk of the chassis?
I obviously offer this advice as a modelling dunce who would lose most of his fingers in the process of cutting the components!
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Would it look better with the tank extended to be level with the smoke box and the smoke box wrapper base (think that's the right term) extended to the footplate to mask where you can see the red chunk of the chassis?
I obviously offer this advice as a modelling dunce who would lose most of his fingers in the process of cutting the components!
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For what it's worth, I have to agree with the previous comment; low footplate and extended tank.