Kim I think it's just about normal. My old set used to do it, mainly in summer, But you run quite big trains
Amperage
- Thread starter Philbahn
- Start date
Hi Kim
Where is the Central station located? may sound a daft Q but if it is in a shed or garage it may be becoming too hot from the sun shining on an adjacent outer wall,
I have experienced the same as you with both MTS & Massoth!!!! although in the latter case it was an unusually hot day
Where is the Central station located? may sound a daft Q but if it is in a shed or garage it may be becoming too hot from the sun shining on an adjacent outer wall,
I have experienced the same as you with both MTS & Massoth!!!! although in the latter case it was an unusually hot day
Are the 4 locos single or double motored ones?? or put it another way how many motors are there in total??
I would feel that 3.3 AMPS If the Unit is COOL is too soon for it to trip out, is the ammeter OK?
kimbrit said:
Thats a lot of amps for lights!! These are the Massoth units with bulbs?
I have some lighting boards with 14 LEDS ( long enough for 1 bogie coach) no idea who makes them they were in some S/H US coaches, just tried one board and it showed just under 0.06 amp
Might be worth emailing Massoth, see if theres a known fault. Might have to wait a bit for reply though!
Surprised that your displayed amperage is so low. Are you sure that the Navigator displays accurately, especially connected to an LGB central station?kimbrit said:
For reference, these are figures I know are accurate for locos on my layout:
4 motors with an 8 wagon train on the flat = 4 amps (5 amps on the uphill)
loco lights: say 3 bulbs on each loco = 3*4*0.05 amps = 0.6 amps
4 smoking stacks = 4*.1 amps = 0.4 amps (which is why I don't use them any more...)
That gives 5 amps to start with. Add your coach lighting boards or a gradient and it's easy to overload the central station. I know: I do so if overenthusiastic!
I have had this trouble before with the old Airfix MTC and LGB controllers.
Check the bottom of the controller to see if it is warm. Could be it is not getting enough cooling and the thermal trip is operating. Try putting two pieces of 2? x 1? wood on edge under the sides of the controller, it may work and it?s cheap.
Check the bottom of the controller to see if it is warm. Could be it is not getting enough cooling and the thermal trip is operating. Try putting two pieces of 2? x 1? wood on edge under the sides of the controller, it may work and it?s cheap.
kimbrit said:
Kim, Just a thought but instead of taking the units out could you not isolate them with a miniature switch.
Maplins might have a fan that suitable. Something like one that fits in a computor tower
http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/full/rg10.jpg
http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/full/rg10.jpg
Its funny how you ponder over things isnt it!!!!!!!
Some further thoughts:
As far as I can remember from what I was told the MTS 2/3 central station differences wre in the operating system and not the 'power' side of them.
tHave you any point decoders in use? I have been aware of cases where point decoders which have been incorrectly coded, have had a small load running through them ( Where they are set to control colour lights etc) and so add a drain to the system. ( not sure though if this is poss with LGB point decoders)
Is your transformer giving out the correct power?
I checked some of my transformers (not all LGB) recently and found discrepancys to the rated listing!
Some further thoughts:
As far as I can remember from what I was told the MTS 2/3 central station differences wre in the operating system and not the 'power' side of them.
tHave you any point decoders in use? I have been aware of cases where point decoders which have been incorrectly coded, have had a small load running through them ( Where they are set to control colour lights etc) and so add a drain to the system. ( not sure though if this is poss with LGB point decoders)
Is your transformer giving out the correct power?
I checked some of my transformers (not all LGB) recently and found discrepancys to the rated listing!
kimbrit said:
I think that you can get them for less than that!!
Maplin?
Bachmann spares? ( K27 Fan)
I agree. Local computer shop about £3.50 - £5 max. Or there's plenty of scrap computers around these days and most have a couple of these things in them - they're standard size for a case fan or a psu fan.
If the relatively high price is for the AC option you could always fit a rectifier bridge for under £1.00 and use a DC fan. You may also use two 12V fans in series.
Go for any of the W series, e.g. W02 or W10 bridge. These have four leads, one marked +, one - and both the others have an elongated S The first two are the dc output to the motor, if you swap them over the motor will run in reverse, the other two connections are the ac input from the transformer and it doesn't matter which way round they go.kimbrit said:
Fans are good but I think you should get the unit checked for is output before buggering about with fans and such, If the output is not there then cooling it off will just make the internal components fail faster?.............................
Nice
kimbrit said:
Hello Kim,
A standard Multi meter set to AC isn't going to give you accurate readings. Thats because the signal is DCC not pure AC. You would need an meter that understood DCC, like this http://www.dccsupplies.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=315
kimbrit said:Well, I've solved the problem with the output of the MTS, I've done a deal with Jeremy that gives me a Massoth 1200Z, that should do nicely!!
Cheers,
Kim
Welcome to the very dark side Kim. You'll love it Kim takes a bit but worth while