aerosol varnish

D

Dave Hub

everyting
Hi all, just wondered what varnish aerosols people use? I have used humbrol matt and was pleased with the result, but it is a smaal can and only does one coach.

I tried Windsor and newton acryilic matt varnish. It looks good, but it seems to remain slightly tacky even now 3 weeks after I varnished it, has any one else had this happen with varnish before?
 
Dave Hub said:
Hi all, just wondered what varnish aerosols people use? I have used humbrol matt and was pleased with the result, but it is a smaal can and only does one coach.

I tried Windsor and newton acryilic matt varnish. It looks good, but it seems to remain slightly tacky even now 3 weeks after I varnished it, has any one else had this happen with varnish before?
Click to expand...

Hi Dave,

The Winsor & Newton varnish - it is either old, or did you spray with it in cold weather? Either could affect it, it is designed for applying over pictures, and is meant to dry in about a week, it can be removed with their varnish remover. I have juts received my 3 cans of Dull Cote (very good service fromk York!) and they say spray at room temperature which is 21 degrees C. (conversion from 70F)

There is a acrylic varnish type product, made for Kitchen Floors(!) called Johnson's Klear (note the correct (for it) spelling) this is sold in our local Morrisons, but not Tesco's.

It dries with a slight sheen, not matt. It was mentioned on GSC that the new stuff is not as good as the old, I would suggest a trial on a piece of painted coach material to see what happens, it is much cheap[er than the cans but is put on with a brush.

The best pure Matt varnish is Testors Dull Cote and is american. the solvent it uses was not allowed by the EU, so a new one has been devised for it and I have put up a couple of messages, very recently, about it, with the (only) supplier of it mentioned in the UK.

Yours Peter.
 
I've been using the Humbrol spray varnishes - they do a matt for acrylics, and a matt for enamels.

The matt for acrylics goes on top of Halfords rattle can paint OK, it just doesn't like certain brushed enamels.

You must be doing some big coaches :bigsmile::bigsmile: I mean, it doesn't go far, but I've managed to do a couple of wagons (one 30 ft AMS & me snow plow) and some bits out of one can :thumbup::thumbup:
 
I'd definately agree with previous comments. Testor's Dullcote is an excellent choice and I've used it many times, it can be a bit more expensive than some other products out there but then I guess you get what you pay for. Vallejo is also another highly respect brand; whilst I haven't had any experience with it I remember it being recommend by poeple in Model Railroader magazine a few times.

All the best,
Gavin
 
AS a follow up on my woes with Varnish I brought the matt, satin and gloss Vallejo range.

Satin and matt are working just fine. My problem is with the gloss spray. Its probably not the spray as I had the same problem with humbrol gloss.

My problem is: Instructions say do lots of thin coats. So I do, It goes blotchy even with multiple coats. Some patches have a nice gloss finish others don't. I tried heavier coats visually making the area glossy. it seems to work, but does run and the bottom is always thick and more glossy than the rest.

I'll post photos of a couple of wagons I've been practicing on shortly.

I need to figure this out as My LCE train is ready for a gloss coat, but I don't want to ruin all my hard work with a bad varnish finish.

Any thoughts very appreciated.
 
Because it has no pigment (colour) its hard to see how much paint you are putting on

A few points to help
1 Take your time between coats the next coat will eat into the previous coat so dont worry if you think you have left it to long
2 if you have enough on there but its hazy dont worry cos you can cut it back with 1500 wet and dry and T cut it
3 try laying what ever it is on its side and painting the upper facing side only wait till it drys then turn it over, if you havnt got a corner you can loose the dry edge on try reverse masking which is where you place masking tape on and peal / fold back the edge you want to paint to to create a wall that curls under then when the overspry hits it it will fade out under the tape
4 store your can up side down for a day before painting shake the can well stand it in the sun for 10mins and shake it again and again and again it sounds like your paint might not be mixed enough
hope this helps
Tony

Ps if your finish has "milky" streaks its def not mixed enough
 
Dave, I always have a hair dryer handy when I am spraying and when I have applied a coat of paint I go over with the hair dryer. This dries the paint quickly and evenly ready for the next coat
 
Thanks for the various tips,

I took some photos, unfortunately the camera lies, it looks all nice in the photos no blotches or anything.

I'll try a few tips. I have been heating the garage prior to spraying, and the cans so I'll try the other bits mentioned this week, and report back.

Thanks again.
 
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