Accucraft AMS points (switches)

Richie

Richie

Rio Grande Railroad , Mountain biking , Gardening
Like the look of these 3ft narrow gauge AMS #6 points has anybodie used them on there layouts just wondered how they perform with other brands of rolling stock like USA Trains and Bachmann .Is the track compatible with LGB & Aristo as i have no AMS track and what it ment by #6 does this mean 6ft radius ?
2b7043003d1c4777a9123f337fda331e.jpeg
 
have heard positive reports on some of the us forums
but do they do code 330 points in this size, mine are code 250
but stored until garden sorted
you can get the brass joiners to join both codes together though
they do both 6 and 8 ft radius
 
Richie,
#6 means the angle of the frog, and is about 9.75 radius.

The Accucraft code 332 stuff is euro style, but I have never seen any Acccucraft code 332 switches, just 1:20.3 code 250 ones- like this one.

Alec
 
The #number is the ratio of divergence at the frog, ie. #6 = 6:1 ratio (1 unit of divergence for 6 units of length). It shouldn't be thought of as directly relating to a curve radius, because for US pointwork the trackwork runs straight at the frog, not curved. However a larger #number will tend to equate to a larger overall radius simply because it is a narrower angle of divergence.
 
Yeah, does sound a bit wibbly! Here, try a picture...

http://www.handlaidtrack.com/kb_results.asp?ID=59

I guess the problem is the need to get away from thinking of a point as being part of a smooth curve. Toy train track points may be built that way, but as you move to more prototypical trackwork then this isn't the case. Looking at the photo of the AMS point above, you can see it's not on a continuous curve.

I guess that doesn't help with a typical "will this fit with my 10' radius ?" type of question. You'd need to know the length of the point as well as it's #number, to work out the radius it fits with.
 
Many thanks for all the imfo on the points (switches) had no idea there was so much maths envolved 8|
looks like i might be better at looking at LGB 5 points as the rest of my track is LGB & Aristo euro sleepers . Have been thinking of changing the two passing loop points in my station area which have R3 points some of my larger loco's tend to derail on them :wits:
 
i am now enlightened,,,,,

underpants off head and back on properly,,,,

rich,,, usa trains do a radius 6 point but its huge,,, euro sleeper,,
 
Hi Richie
I use both LGB R5 and Aristocraft/USAT No6 points. The No6 are very very wide and are about 22ft+ diameter. The LGB R5 are nigh on 15ft.

The R5's are great except for the 'bobble' they give some makes of rolling stock and locos as they pass through the frog.

There are probs with the No6 points/turnouts, the main one is to do with the microswitch that controls the polarity of the frog. I think you saw my work around on a 'iffy' No6 where the microswitch had failed and the frog was dead. Another microswitch has gone in another No6 and this is down to me not greasing the wiring contacts and microswitch when I laid it. I could have used silicon but most brands use acetic acid to set the silicon and this corrodes the copper in the wiring and brass. The type that doesn't use acetic acid is a bit expensive as it was made for electronic work.
 
Why not try these from GRS i love them they are wooden sleeper £99 each and worth it heres a photo against a lgb R3 they are the same rail as LGB and will take an LGB point motor
points009.jpg


They also do a larger one and a really neat double slip
ive lost count but i think ive 10 on my mainline now as i keep replacing my R3s and just fit them to sidings
heres another 2 you can even reverse a really long train across them

tony

points002.jpg
 
ntpntpntp said:
Mike, I use RTV Neutral Silicone from Maplin for potting point decoders and sealing terminal blocks etc.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/silicone-adhesive-sealant-46001

I don't think it's expensive for something that does the job nicely and I know won't attack the components.
Click to expand...
No, you're right of course Nick. I was just comparing over 5 squids for 80 ml with about the same cost for 4 times as much for ordinary silicon.
But I will buy some of the correct type as grease does tend to wear off after a time...perhaps I might grease it after the special silicon....belt and braces...8|
 
Mike I do remember the problems you had with the micro switches i have heard a few others that have had this problem i know Dave had problems with his LGB R5 with stock derailing on the raised frog the point would not sit flat on the ground .
Tony those GRS points look very nice:bigsmile: and a good price next to the LGB & Aristo will have to look on there web site . Will have to make some full size templates from card and see how they would fit in also need to get it pass the planning department :nail: wifey:laugh:
 
As already stated, the Accucraft are 0.250" profile (code 250). I use the Aristo #6 (stainless steel), but remove the problem frog polarity microswitch and power the frog through a LGB switch machine with a LGB microswitch pack. Caution in that these switchpacks are limited to 3 amp maximum, so this may limit their application. Do not rely on the stock Aristo electrics for frog polarity as it will fail in use.
 
I have one Aristo #6 and one USAT #6

The Aristo polarity switch doesn't last long, and has bee repaced with a crude manaual device which works reliably.

The USAT has been re-wired as per Spike's method with a dead frog and live blades (moving and static secions) which works OK with longer locos - wouldn't do for a Stainz.

You have to move away from the geometrical thinking and be prepared to cut the odd section of track and perhaps indulge in a bit of belly bending. :bigsmile::bigsmile:

End results are worth it :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

68dedc6fde2845e2886fe8572c474a6a.jpg
 
Thanks for that Tim & Ian those large points with nice sweeping curves do look nice on your line Ian , when i built mine several years ago now i just stuck to using set track with R3 curves it's only now that the track is having problems handling much larger loco's and stock in the 1:20.3 scale where i can i have taken out some 'S' bends and a new lower line at the bottom of the garden was built but still have problems in the passing loop i hope in time and money to take out the loop and curve and replace it with larger points and nice sweeping curves . The other problem i have with my track that it's fixed down on a rock base with rapid cement holding the ballast so it's not very easy to move .
 
Richie said:
The other problem i have with my track that it's fixed down on a rock base with rapid cement holding the ballast so it's not very easy to move .
Click to expand...

Jack-hammers away !!! :bigsmile::bigsmile::bigsmile:
 
Put in for planning this week end to change the points and layout of my passing loop :thumbup: but didn't go down well with the planners :wits: The new plan now is to remove the passing loop & station and move it up to a wider part of the garden this was Sara's idea she said she has never liked the staion where it is so i will now have a longer passing loop and a larger area for my station so i think it might work out better :thumbup:
 
I use GRS 6' radius Code 332 LGB compatible points on my layout as well as the LGB R5's (approx 7' radius). Both work ok with the Accucraft K-27/28 chassis Richie.
I think you will find that the GRS items have gone up in price from that noted elsewhere in this thread, still loverly well made items.
You will need to get throw levers (Tenmille ?) for the GRS items and possibly some way of standing them well away from the rail so your big loco's don't foul them. LGB's not a problem as the levers are flush with the rail head.
Max.
 
Hi Max
With the new plans drawn up by Sara i might be able to get away with using my Piko R5 points as the new loop will be a lot easier for the steamers all will look clear when i take some pic's .
 
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