Access LGB 2044 Motor

It's been a while since I have done a 2n44, but basically you need to turn the loco upside down, then start removing any screws that appear to attach the floor to the body. You may find some in odd places, such an inside an hollow air cylinder etc, but it is not complicated.

If you have camera on your phone, take lots of photos as you do it, so you know how to put it back together
 
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Software Tools said:
It's been a while since I have done a 2n44, but basically you need to turn the loco upside down, then start removing any screws that appear to attach the floor to the body. You may find some in odd places, such an inside an hollow air cylinder etc, but it is not complicated.

If you have camera on your phone, take lots of photos as you do it, do you know how to put it back together
Click to expand...
This is where I’m at. I can’t see any screws anywhere. The platform seems to still be attached to the motor block around where the front/rear guide trucks attach but can’t see anything inside those areas under the covers.IMG_2448.jpegIMG_2449.jpeg
 
I think you will have to release a couple of the screws from the bottom plate?

It may also be held by 'blocks' at either end. - You may have to remove the pilot assemblies?
(I am less sure about this).

PhilP
 
PhilP said:
will have to release a couple of the screws from the bottom plate?

It may also be held by 'blocks' at either end. - You may have to remove the pilot assemblies?
(I am less sure about this).

PhilP
Click to expand...
phil you genius. You have to release the 2 outer screws from bottom plate of the motor block to release it from the platform. Obviously with the possibility of dumping the contents of the block that was not something I wanted to entertain, but the 2 outside block screws secure the long posts from the platform.
 

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Nice, I just took my 2044 apart to start to understand how to convert it to DCC, and those two I found by trial to get to the motor block.

Are you converting the motor block to 4 pin by chance?
 
POLO_Train said:
Nice, I just took my 2044 apart to start to understand how to convert it to DCC, and those two I found by trial to get to the motor block.

Are you converting the motor block to 4 pin by chance?
Click to expand...
To convert a 3 pin motor block to DCC conversion to 4 pin is essential. Depending on the inside conversion requires doing away with the common on one side, motor needs to have 2 wires exiting the chassis as do the pickups. As a rule it can be as simple as unsoldering the common wire from the motor and adding a new one ensuring that the cut wire is isolated at the cut end with heat shrink or cut back to the pickup brasses.
 
POLO_Train said:
Nice, I just took my 2044 apart to start to understand how to convert it to DCC, and those two I found by trial to get to the motor block.

Are you converting the motor block to 4 pin by chance?
Click to expand...
It’s already been converted by previous owner. Im replacing the motor and converting the lights to LEDs.
 
Diesel2000 said:
It’s already been converted by previous owner. Im replacing the motor and converting the lights to LEDs.
Click to expand...

Ahh Thanks, I am just about to start the conversion of my 2044 with the LGB 55029 mfx decoder.

Did yours do the "Swiss Light" (I am not sure what else to call it) conversion, where the lower white right light can stay lite while the engine is going to opposite direction?
I saw it on a German you tube channel:

I noticed the 2044 does not have that built in currently with analog control. It has the two Red LEDs light up when going in the opposite direction. I just completed the 2046 to have the "Swiss light" with the 24450 decoder download for the 55029 decoder.
I am curious if the LGB 24450 mfx equipped model has it or not. The Marklin decoder download only shows Output 1 and Output 2 in the AND 1 and 2 logical functions, so I am guessing it does not do the Swiss Light feature.

I am wondering if it would be fun to wire the Red LEDs and lower right to separate outputs so that I could turn on and off the Red LEDs differently, or if that is just too much work that is not prototypical or worth it.
 
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