I purchased a 2nd hand USA Trains F3 diesel from a mate at a VERY good price.
This is it as delivered:
I liked the colour scheme as it is close to the SaTR's orange and white so couldn't bring myself to repaint it. Just printed new lettering on photo paper using my bubble-jet.
I added a small window in the flat end for driving, and buffers. I ripped out both the printed circuit boards to give me more room and moved the driver and control stand to the correct side. Replaced front and rear lights with white LEDs - 5mm at the front and a 10mm one for rear, both running at 8 mA.
So it now looks like this:
I used a 'O' ring from a (water) tap for the surrounds of the 10mm LED and this seems to me a pretty easy way to do headlights that I'll use from now on.
I added 2.4 GHz RC (Hobbyking) and a 12V, 3000mAh LiPo battery, with a Talking Electronics sound card (these are build yourself types). Then added my 'standard' Picaxe circuit to delay the loco from moving until the diesel engine's throb rate has built up. This cct also provides automatic volume control so it is loud when accelerating and softer when slowing and stopped.
I originally used the speaker in the fuel tank but it was an 8 ohm type and not loud enough. So I put an oval shaped 4-ohm one under the roof grills and it's much better.
There's a video here:
http://youtu.be/qxD8oaKOcSk
This is it as delivered:
I liked the colour scheme as it is close to the SaTR's orange and white so couldn't bring myself to repaint it. Just printed new lettering on photo paper using my bubble-jet.
I added a small window in the flat end for driving, and buffers. I ripped out both the printed circuit boards to give me more room and moved the driver and control stand to the correct side. Replaced front and rear lights with white LEDs - 5mm at the front and a 10mm one for rear, both running at 8 mA.
So it now looks like this:
I used a 'O' ring from a (water) tap for the surrounds of the 10mm LED and this seems to me a pretty easy way to do headlights that I'll use from now on.
I added 2.4 GHz RC (Hobbyking) and a 12V, 3000mAh LiPo battery, with a Talking Electronics sound card (these are build yourself types). Then added my 'standard' Picaxe circuit to delay the loco from moving until the diesel engine's throb rate has built up. This cct also provides automatic volume control so it is loud when accelerating and softer when slowing and stopped.
I originally used the speaker in the fuel tank but it was an 8 ohm type and not loud enough. So I put an oval shaped 4-ohm one under the roof grills and it's much better.
There's a video here:
http://youtu.be/qxD8oaKOcSk
I use photo paper too (and try and seal by varnishing both sides). The 'O' ring is a neat idea also.