3D Printed Points

[GAP]

I have been messing around with my new 3D printer and have printed these.
Printed in PLA+ they are one of many sets that are planned to be used when I finally get around to build my storage tracks inside the shed.
Only thing I can fault is that the flange depth at the frog is to shallow but that can be overcome with a bit of filing.

45mm Turnout for Garden Railway Track System by arockStone

After att total rebuild off my Turnout 32mm it's finally here. Turnout for 45mm gauge tracks (SM45) common used in Garden railways (16mm and LGB scale). The turnout radius are 1150mm and a steeper radius curved track is included . I will be very glad if you publish pictures off your printings.

www.thingiverse.com

Going to team them with some of these

Turnout Lever for Garden Railway System by arockStone

This is a Lever to maneuver your Turnouts on your Garden railway

www.thingiverse.com

First up I might put this set outside on the layout and stress test them to see if any wagon or loco doesn't like them and how they wear.

 

[dunnyrail]

I have been messing around with my new 3D printer and have printed these.
Printed in PLA+ they are one of many sets that are planned to be used when I finally get around to build my storage tracks inside the shed.
Only thing I can fault is that the flange depth at the frog is to shallow but that can be overcome with a bit of filing.

45mm Turnout for Garden Railway Track System by arockStone

After att total rebuild off my Turnout 32mm it's finally here. Turnout for 45mm gauge tracks (SM45) common used in Garden railways (16mm and LGB scale). The turnout radius are 1150mm and a steeper radius curved track is included . I will be very glad if you publish pictures off your printings.

www.thingiverse.com

Going to team them with some of these

Turnout Lever for Garden Railway System by arockStone

This is a Lever to maneuver your Turnouts on your Garden railway

www.thingiverse.com

First up I might put this set outside on the layout and stress test them to see if any wagon or loco doesn't like them and how they wear.

View attachment 320147

View attachment 320146

I rather like those levers as they do show which way the point is orientated. They do have to be carefully located to ensure no oversize stock gives they a sideswipe.

 

[PhilP]

They look the business.. Though I wonder about the position of the joint? - Look's to be near the frog.
Be interesting to see how this stands up to the stresses of use?

PhilP

 

[GAP]

They look the business.. Though I wonder about the position of the joint? - Look's to be near the frog.
Be interesting to see how this stands up to the stresses of use?

PhilP

That's why they are destined to go the outside, I have a set of points that were removed for refurbishment but haven't been put back so that where I'll put these.
Right on one of the main loops where they'll get a fair bit of traffic.
As they going to be on storage lines the wear should be significantly less that outside.
The joint through the frog shouldn't be an issue as all my track is mounted on boards, plus putting them together required some persuasion with a small hammer a bit of wood to get the dovetails to fit, so there is no movement at the joint at all.

 

[GAP]

I rather like those levers as they do show which way the point is orientated. They do have to be carefully located to ensure no oversize stock gives they a sideswipe.

I'm looking at printing a mount for the lever and running a piece of Mig welding wire between the lever and the throw bar to give clearance.
I have already tested the lever out on a set of refurbished brass points using the Mig wire and it worked perfectly. I set it up so it stood straight up for through and laid flat for curve, any combination can be achieved by changing the length of the wire.

 

[mickb]

That's why they are destined to go the outside, I have a set of points that were removed for refurbishment but haven't been put back so that where I'll put these.
Right on one of the main loops where they'll get a fair bit of traffic.
As they going to be on storage lines the wear should be significantly less that outside.
The joint through the frog shouldn't be an issue as all my track is mounted on boards, plus putting them together required some persuasion with a small hammer a bit of wood to get the dovetails to fit, so there is no movement at the joint at all.

Be careful if they will be in full sun, they will likely distort.
Mick

 

[GAP]

Be careful if they will be in full sun, they will likely distort.
Mick

That's one of the objectives of the experiment to see how long they last in the sun. Will paint one side and leave the other as printed to see if there is a difference
The others are destined for use inside a steel shed which can be hot when left closed up, so hot in fact that I found some heatshrink had actually shrunk on one side.
The other objectives are to observe the wear on the frog and how my locos and wagons navigate it.

 

[GAP]

I was not real happy with some of the features of the first set of points I printed;

• Sleeper height to low for my track
• Flange depth at frog way to shallow
• Join right through the frog

I found these on the net and decided to print out one to see how it went.

Printables

www.printables.com

They look to be the spitting of an LGB R5 point; the site only gives stl's for right hand points but I imported the files into Tinkercad and used the "mirror" function to get stl's for left hand ones.
I could have used the mirror function in Cura which would have given me G Code files but no stl's.

To assemble I will need some 2.75mm rod as alignment dowels and some small screws, for the dowels I'll try 2.75mm knitting needles (gauge 12) and for the screws a search of the net will be required probably screws used in electronics/robotics will be the place to look.

The print was a long one 92.5 hours, according to Octoprint for the 4 parts (I combined the point rails and change bar into one print), but it certainly did not go that long.
I started Sunday morning and the last print was done on Tuesday morning, I only printed during the day and not overnight,
I think it might be worth printing some more to get some points for the inside the shed job I am planning.
Couple of small issues

• the change bar in the file measures 4.6mm high but the slot it goes through is 4.4mm so I imported it into Tinkercad and when I did I had the option to change the dimensions so I changed to 4.4mm "length" and it went through easily.
• The alignment slot where the point blades go into are a tight fit that require opening up a bit for the rails to slide into the slot, this lets the pivot screw holes to line up.

All this is really minor stuff that is easily fixed with a little application of modelling skill.

This is what I was looking at price wise if I went down the tailor made brass track route.

LGB - 18050 - Right Manual Turnout, R5, 15°

Manual Point Right Hand, R5 G Gauge 1:22.5 LGB 18050

www.allaboardexclusive.com.au

I could have rolled my own but that would take just as much time if not more by the time I cut sleepers and rail, plus shaping the rail so I think and economical alternative.
I really didn't use a lot of filament in the scheme of things, probably get 4 or 5 sets per roll maybe more, the electricity came from the solar panels and the printer did the work while I was doing something else.

Some pictures of a rough assembly (no dowels or screws) showing what the finished article should look like. Again the points lever will get a look in (might even bash it in Tinkercad so the fits the point)

 

[dunnyrail]

I was not real happy with some of the features of the first set of points I printed;

• Sleeper height to low for my track
• Flange depth at frog way to shallow
• Join right through the frog

I found these on the net and decided to print out one to see how it went.

Printables

www.printables.com

They look to be the spitting of an LGB R5 point; the site only gives stl's for right hand points but I imported the files into Tinkercad and used the "mirror" function to get stl's for left hand ones.
I could have used the mirror function in Cura which would have given me G Code files but no stl's.

To assemble I will need some 2.75mm rod as alignment dowels and some small screws, for the dowels I'll try 2.75mm knitting needles (gauge 12) and for the screws a search of the net will be required probably screws used in electronics/robotics will be the place to look.

The print was a long one 92.5 hours, according to Octoprint for the 4 parts (I combined the point rails and change bar into one print), but it certainly did not go that long.
I started Sunday morning and the last print was done on Tuesday morning, I only printed during the day and not overnight,
I think it might be worth printing some more to get some points for the inside the shed job I am planning.
Couple of small issues

• the change bar in the file measures 4.6mm high but the slot it goes through is 4.4mm so I imported it into Tinkercad and when I did I had the option to change the dimensions so I changed to 4.4mm "length" and it went through easily.
• The alignment slot where the point blades go into are a tight fit that require opening up a bit for the rails to slide into the slot, this lets the pivot screw holes to line up.

All this is really minor stuff that is easily fixed with a little application of modelling skill.

This is what I was looking at price wise if I went down the tailor made brass track route.

LGB - 18050 - Right Manual Turnout, R5, 15°

Manual Point Right Hand, R5 G Gauge 1:22.5 LGB 18050

www.allaboardexclusive.com.au

I could have rolled my own but that would take just as much time if not more by the time I cut sleepers and rail, plus shaping the rail so I think and economical alternative.
I really didn't use a lot of filament in the scheme of things, probably get 4 or 5 sets per roll maybe more, the electricity came from the solar panels and the printer did the work while I was doing something else.

Some pictures of a rough assembly (no dowels or screws) showing what the finished article should look like. Again the points lever will get a look in (might even bash it in Tinkercad so the fits the point)
View attachment 320369
View attachment 320370
View attachment 320371
View attachment 320374

Have you thought about Brazing Rod rather than Knitting Needles? I have just measured some I have which is 2.4mm dia.

THREAD DRIFT ALERT
Used my TCM (Tochibo anyone remember them? Sad loss from the UK High Street but still around in Germany last time I was there) digital callipers, they do not often see the light of day but very good when they are used.

 

[JimmyB]

THREAD DRIFT ALERT
Used my TCM (Tochibo anyone remember them? Sad loss from the UK High Street but still around in Germany last time I was there) digital callipers, they do not often see the light of day but very good when they are used.

Had to buy a new set this year, had my first set for a long time, but the battery connection had corroded over the years and gave up the ghost. My old one was metal bodied, and I wanted similar, in the end bought a "Silverline", look very similar, and a 3 year guarantee.

 

[Rhinochugger]

I have been messing around with my new 3D printer and have printed these.
Printed in PLA+ they are one of many sets that are planned to be used when I finally get around to build my storage tracks inside the shed.
Only thing I can fault is that the flange depth at the frog is to shallow but that can be overcome with a bit of filing.

45mm Turnout for Garden Railway Track System by arockStone

After att total rebuild off my Turnout 32mm it's finally here. Turnout for 45mm gauge tracks (SM45) common used in Garden railways (16mm and LGB scale). The turnout radius are 1150mm and a steeper radius curved track is included . I will be very glad if you publish pictures off your printings.

www.thingiverse.com

Going to team them with some of these

Turnout Lever for Garden Railway System by arockStone

This is a Lever to maneuver your Turnouts on your Garden railway

www.thingiverse.com

First up I might put this set outside on the layout and stress test them to see if any wagon or loco doesn't like them and how they wear.

View attachment 320147

View attachment 320146

Be interesting to see how stock runs through the frog - the check rails still look a bit short on the blade side - a bit like LGB R3s

 

[GAP]

Be interesting to see how stock runs through the frog - the check rails still look a bit short on the blade side - a bit like LGB R3s

The test bogie (1 steel and 1 plastic wheel) rolled freely through the frog albeit with a bit of bumping and I think it is too shallow, that's why I sent with the other set in post #8.
They look exactly like an LGB point; I think an LGB point has been 3D scanned then worked into parts to fit a print bed using a CAD program.
When I put it next to a brass one I have there is no difference in any profiles.
I may put a bit of metal shimming on the frog to reduce wear from metal wheels similar to what is done in HO scale.

 

[GAP]

This is a picture of my attempt to incorporate the points lever into the change bar area of the points using Tinkercad.
This is a proof of concept print, I still have to work out a rod from the lever to the change bar, fitting it this way the lever should be clear of any carriages but I can move it further away if needed.
A bit more tinkering I think.

 

[GAP]

Have you thought about Brazing Rod rather than Knitting Needles? I have just measured some I have which is 2.4mm dia.

THREAD DRIFT ALERT
Used my TCM (Tochibo anyone remember them? Sad loss from the UK High Street but still around in Germany last time I was there) digital callipers, they do not often see the light of day but very good when they are used.

I found these and they should work

https://www.amazon.com.au/uxcell-Stainless-2-75mm-15-8mm-Elements/dp/B00B3MFQB2

Thread drift
I have a set of digital vernier calipers that I got from ALDI, cheap but do the job.
In a past life back in the service we were equipped with micrometers and vernier calipers made by Starret; good quality but I can't justify the expense.
We also had optical micrometers for checking pits and dents on rotor blades and wings.
When I move into calibration field if I had $1 for every set of micrometers or calipers that I checked and certified I would be a very rich man.

 

[JimmyB]

I found these and they should work

https://www.amazon.com.au/uxcell-Stainless-2-75mm-15-8mm-Elements/dp/B00B3MFQB2

Thread drift
I have a set of digital vernier calipers that I got from ALDI, cheap but do the job.
In a past life back in the service we were equipped with micrometers and vernier calipers made by Starret; good quality but I can't justify the expense.
We also had optical micrometers for checking pits and dents on rotor blades and wings.
When I move into calibration field if I had $1 for every set of micrometers or calipers that I checked and certified I would be a very rich man.

I have a 0 - 1" Moore & Wright mic, bought second hand, so cheap, I think I paid £1.00 for is and it is zeroed with nil play in the thread, so more than good enough for my modelling

 

[Paul M]

When I move into calibration field if I had $1 for every set of micrometers or calipers that I checked and certified I would

Calibration of micrometers was one of my duties whilst working in a laboratory. Why I was lumbered with it, is any one's guess.

 

[David1226]

Calibration of micrometers was one of my duties whilst working in a laboratory. Why I was lumbered with it, is any one's guess.

They'd obviously got your measure.

David

 

[GAP]

This is a picture of my attempt to incorporate the points lever into the change bar area of the points using Tinkercad.
This is a proof of concept print, I still have to work out a rod from the lever to the change bar, fitting it this way the lever should be clear of any carriages but I can move it further away if needed.
A bit more tinkering I think.
View attachment 320407

I have moved the lever 10mm to the left to give extra clearance.
I have yet to test this with any of my locos but I'm going to try with my 2 largest ones then I'll know if I have clearance.
Plus I am going to install this set in one of my main lines outside, it is coming into summer down here so a stress test is in the wings. If they survive that then they should be fine for inside.

 

[Paul M]

They'd obviously got your measure.

David

TBH after i had calibrated them I'm not so sure!
Still no groan emoji?

 

[justme igor]

This is how a turnout has to look prototypical correct, regarding his sleepers/ties.
I can make anything you want if you are willing to go this route.
Regarding to the check/safety rail, your print is in good order.
For what i have found out is flange baring frogs do not work for me.
If printing is what you want, i would also like to suggest to make the space between the safety rail and your headrail a bit deeper.
A grain of sand can do some harm to your wheels.

Advice regarding pla: it will shrink in the sun, paint or no paint.
The pivoting point is above 30C shade, in sun the material temp is playing a big part, 60C is easy done.
At this temp pla can shrink up to 5%. it will also harden and get brittle over time.
When hot it will be very soft.
This is my experience.
I never tried pla+
Basically after my testing with pla, i did all in abs.

45mm Turnout for Garden Railway Track System by arockStone

After att total rebuild off my Turnout 32mm it's finally here. Turnout for 45mm gauge tracks (SM45) common used in Garden railways (16mm and LGB scale). The turnout radius are 1150mm and a steeper radius curved track is included . I will be very glad if you publish pictures off your printings.

www.thingiverse.com

i think you will find a good starting point here.
i also think you want to dip your toe into 3d modeling.
Search in your windows computer for "3d builder".
This program is very easy, but o so difficult.
Why you have 3 choices, make a choice and you have again 3 choices, make one..... a n d ...you have again three choices.
You can make the ties higher or lower, you can adapt very easy the chars, even add very simple your wanted distance between the ties.

New Train track for OS-Railway - fully 3D-printable railway system! by Depronized

Here is a set of new track parts for the OS-Railway system. They are designed to be a bit more scale-like but are still compatible with the old track system. The turnouts are of a new design that bends the track rather than using free rotating track parts. The radius is also a bit wider than...

www.thingiverse.com

Scale this up to your scale.

I hope this was/is helpful.


ps here you go: i will delete this one in a couple of days, the chairs i dont had the time for it.

gscale turnout by justmeigor

test

www.thingiverse.com