Coming along nicelyWhile awaiting fresh supplies of brass, I thought I'd take a look at what the spectacle plate might look like 10mm wider. I think this is better proportioned for Otto.
Rik
Yet another Otto bash
- Thread starter ge_rik
- Start date
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
Part 8 - Taking shape (and weight)
Latest progress. The new brass sheet arrived and I've cut out the spectacle plate. It's a few mm wider than the temporary wider plate - I did try making it even wider but it didn't look quite right. Because Otto is wider than No.3, it's difficult to get the proportions right.
It may not look like a lot of progress has been made since the last posting but a lot has been done 'behind the scenes'. A fair amount of lead flashing strip has been shaped and forced into the saddle tank, the old side tanks (now bunkers), behind the front buffer beam and in the smokebox (to counterbalance the lead in the bunkers).
Some of the gaps where mouldings have been removed have been filled, sanded, filled and sanded again.
The chassis has been sprayed black and some of the rivet detail has been added (eg to the buffer beams).
There's still plenty to do. I hope to fit the electronics this weekend so I can do some test running. The spectacle plate needs to be fitted into place permanently after some half round beading has been soldered around its edge (awaiting delivery). I'm not sure about the chimney - it's the Otto one cut-down, but it looks far too chunky. I might have to sort through my stock of biros and pens to see if I can find something a bit more delicate and in keeping with the original. Then it'll be time to spray the body and to start adding in some of the finer details like safety valve, tank filler and all that lovely copper pipework.
Rik
Latest progress. The new brass sheet arrived and I've cut out the spectacle plate. It's a few mm wider than the temporary wider plate - I did try making it even wider but it didn't look quite right. Because Otto is wider than No.3, it's difficult to get the proportions right.
It may not look like a lot of progress has been made since the last posting but a lot has been done 'behind the scenes'. A fair amount of lead flashing strip has been shaped and forced into the saddle tank, the old side tanks (now bunkers), behind the front buffer beam and in the smokebox (to counterbalance the lead in the bunkers).
Some of the gaps where mouldings have been removed have been filled, sanded, filled and sanded again.
The chassis has been sprayed black and some of the rivet detail has been added (eg to the buffer beams).
There's still plenty to do. I hope to fit the electronics this weekend so I can do some test running. The spectacle plate needs to be fitted into place permanently after some half round beading has been soldered around its edge (awaiting delivery). I'm not sure about the chimney - it's the Otto one cut-down, but it looks far too chunky. I might have to sort through my stock of biros and pens to see if I can find something a bit more delicate and in keeping with the original. Then it'll be time to spray the body and to start adding in some of the finer details like safety valve, tank filler and all that lovely copper pipework.
Rik
Looking good! Just wondering if I could do something similar with one of my locos, although the chances are I'd make a right hash of it and ruin a good piece of kit.Part 8 - Taking shape (and weight)
Latest progress. The new brass sheet arrived and I've cut out the spectacle plate. It's a few mm wider than the temporary wider plate - I did try making it even wider but it didn't look quite right. Because Otto is wider than No.3, it's difficult to get the proportions right.
It may not look like a lot of progress has been made since the last posting but a lot has been done 'behind the scenes'. A fair amount of lead flashing strip has been shaped and forced into the saddle tank, the old side tanks (now bunkers), behind the front buffer beam and in the smokebox (to counterbalance the lead in the bunkers).
Some of the gaps where mouldings have been removed have been filled, sanded, filled and sanded again.
The chassis has been sprayed black and some of the rivet detail has been added (eg to the buffer beams).
There's still plenty to do. I hope to fit the electronics this weekend so I can do some test running. The spectacle plate needs to be fitted into place permanently after some half round beading has been soldered around its edge (awaiting delivery). I'm not sure about the chimney - it's the Otto one cut-down, but it looks far too chunky. I might have to sort through my stock of biros and pens to see if I can find something a bit more delicate and in keeping with the original. Then it'll be time to spray the body and to start adding in some of the finer details like safety valve, tank filler and all that lovely copper pipework.
Rik
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
Thanks Henri
The main reason I started posting things like this was to try and encourage others to have a go. Basically, I work on the principle that, being fairly ham-fisted, if I can do it, anyone can!
Rik
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
Hi Paul
You never know until you try .......... I started off by making one of the GRS kits based on an Otto/Rusty ToyTrain motor block (see https://riksrailway.blogspot.co.uk/2008/03/how-did-i-make-peckett-locomotive.html ). I then had a go at scratch building a diesel loco on a ToyTrain motor block (see https://riksrailway.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/how-i-converted-toytrain-diesel-into.html ). Diesels tend to be easier to construct as they are basically just a series of oblong boxes. Actually, I've found that conversions take a bit longer than scratchbuilds as there's a lot more tweaking.
Rik
Just looked at your instructions, could be something for the coming winter. I just hope I can do a reasonable job!
Do all the LGB 4 wheeled loco have the same motor block?
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ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
All the ToyTrain locos do. The Stainz has a different block and I imagine the 0-4-0 diesels such as the Schoema are different again. I try to track down ToyTrain 0-4-0 blocks when I can (eg Otto, Oho, Rusty and the ToyTain diesel)
Rik
Neil Robinson
Registered
Fair comments about motor blocks but a typical block produced in, say, 1975 could differ from one for the same loco dating from forty years later.
Looks good and works a treat! Very inspiring I will definitely have a look at converting my 4 wheeler. If it works out I'll try and post some pictures.
Riograndad
Model Railroading, boats and oil painting,
Great bash,iooking forward to the finished loco,like the sound too,by the way those Bachmann car bashes still look good 
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
True, but within a given time frame (growler chassis, then clamshell, then sandwich blocks) all 4-wheel blocks are basically the same - whether they are from a Stainz, a Schoema, a KoF, an Elias or a BoBo diesel - they are all effectively interchangeable, what LGB did was to fit different types of additional fixing blocks (often incorporating the coupler mounts) to the front and rear of the basic motor block in order to fit the unit into various different chassis frames.
Jon.
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
Thanks Henri and Riograndad.Great bash,iooking forward to the finished loco,like the sound too,by the way those Bachmann car bashes still look good
The Bachmann bashed coaches are good runners too - very well behaved over some of my roller-coaster-like trackwork.
Rik