Wood for trestles?

Madman said:
I would think that stainless steel would be OK
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Not sure about that one.. There is stainless steel, and then there is stainless steel!
We are talking an 'acid' effect here.. You get a green 'bloom' from a new oak/brass installation, which calms down as things age.
I would quite often pilot-drill, then use a steel screw to form the thread, and finally replace with brass. - that way if things are a little tight, you do not shear a brass screw!
Especially easily done in these days of power-drivers!!
 
ROSS said:
So then....

In July 2003, it became an offence for the general public to purchase and apply Coal Tar Creosote. However, the product is still available for sale to trades-people. This means the traditional user such as the agricultural community, builders, etc. are still able to purchase Coal Tar Creosote, providing they do not resell to the general householder.
It is the responsibility of the purchaser to ensure that only genuine trade’s people/professional users are supplied.
- See more at: http://www.creosotesales.co.uk/#sthash.LuIKiluz.dpuf

Find yourself a friend in the trade...........!! ;D
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I just looked at that URL. It would appear that there are no checks made on the credentials of the purchaser..... It just states its for professional use, if you use it in a professional manner who is going to say otherwise? I mean an amateur would not buy it - they would not know what to do with it.... Cheap enough too! I would take simple precautions while I was using it though to avoid prolonged skin contact..... Its really the only product that actually does what its claimed in this field.... Unless you can get hold of some Copper Napthanate.....
I don't think even the finest Crepe batter is going to last long externally and may encourage termites.
Here we can buy treated pine with various ratings, if the timber is going to be in contact with the ground then H4 is needed.....
 
Network Rail has been criticized for burning old wooden sleepers as due to the stupid EU laws they are not allowed to sell them for any use that may be touched by the public because they were preserved with creosote.
 
PhilP said:
Not sure about that one.. There is stainless steel, and then there is stainless steel!
We are talking an 'acid' effect here.. You get a green 'bloom' from a new oak/brass installation, which calms down as things age.
I would quite often pilot-drill, then use a steel screw to form the thread, and finally replace with brass. - that way if things are a little tight, you do not shear a brass screw!
Especially easily done in these days of power-drivers!!
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Yes, you are correct about the various grades of stainless steel. I remember using thin stainless steel nails to install cedar siding. They were basically box nails with ridges or rings. Otherwise known a ringed box nails.

The practice of drilling a pilot or clearance hole first is a good one when using brass screws.
 
Back in 1984 I was in charge of building a warehouse addition onto a cold storage food company. Piles had to be driven, as the location was previously an ash dump that had been backfilled many years before. Back then, the piles were treated with Creosote. It was a hot summer when the work was done. Even standing 100 feet from where the work was going on, my skin still burned. When the piles were all driven, they had to be cut to elevation. The pile driving crew, donned their heavy woolen shirts, gloves, hats, and whatever face protection they could muster, and proceeded to fire up chain saws, and had at it.

It's probably a good thing that creosote has been restricted in use. Although I would bet the jury is still out on whatever replaced it ::)
 
White (English) or Brown (European) oak would be a good choice -the latter will be cheaper. Tannin in the oak will produce a blue/black stain where the wood is in contact with water and steel, therefore use brass screws. If you don't want to open out the holes with a steel screw, use the old joiners trick: drill a pilot hole in the wood equal to the core diameter of the screw, then run a piece of candle wax along the screw; as the screw goes in, friction generates heat, melts the wax and lubricates the screw. Bingo!
 
Northsider said:
White (English) or Brown (European) oak would be a good choice -the latter will be cheaper. Tannin in the oak will produce a blue/black stain where the wood is in contact with water and steel, therefore use brass screws. If you don't want to open out the holes with a steel screw, use the old joiners trick: drill a pilot hole in the wood equal to the core diameter of the screw, then run a piece of candle wax along the screw; as the screw goes in, friction generates heat, melts the wax and lubricates the screw. Bingo!
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That's neat! I like the sound of that - clever and has a traditional feel to it

Rik
 
I use Western Red Cedar strips (excellent rot resistance ..ten years or more in our climate even without treatment) they come in various sizes which I get imported from US (its a pretty good deal despite being shipped over).
Example: 10 x 24" strips 1/2" x 1/2" cost $10.77 (very cheap in comparison with oak sourced over here) but it is cheaper to buy in bulk and this also brings down the shipping cost.
import duty adds a little but not prohibitively so.
 
Madman said:
On the issue of using Oak. Be sure that it is not Red Oak. Try to get White Oak.
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ROSS said:
So then....

Find yourself a friend in the trade...........!! ;D
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I have already done that here. Coal tar creosote is easily available in 20 Litre containers. Currently soaking sleepers in shed. Bridges project next. Surprised more clubs and groups don't get hold of it for members. After all if it's not actually sold and people help themselves ???
 
Rik,

For my trestle I used hardwood common garden stakes about 1/2" square.

They have been in the ground for about 3 years know with no trouble and the whole structure is quite rigid and strong.

I did not seal them but if I do it again I probably will (New railway planned upon retirement in 5 years time in another town up North in warmer climes so watch this space).

Also Gregh used similar stakes for his trestle and they lasted around 10 years or more before they became an issue (see Sandstone & Termite website for details).
 
Thanks
In the end I went for oak sections from a dolls house supplier.
http://www.gscalecentral.net/buildings-bridges-lineside/baby-trestle/

Probably not the cheapest but I only needed a few pieces - if I keep watering it, maybe it'll grow........
index.php


Rik
 
I used Western red cedar for my bridges which I got from a great vendor on EBay. He has a store there NWP Model RR Lumber and Hobby Woods
 

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Ron Oyer said:
I used Western red cedar for my bridges which I got from a great vendor on EBay. He has a store there NWP Model RR Lumber and Hobby Woods
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Cedar would have been good. I believe it lasts forever (well near enough). Not sure of a source over this side of the pond.

Rik
 
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