Thats my question. I have been offered an LGB tram & Trailer but I think LGB is 18V and Bachmann is 12V and I'm curious if the LGB will run on 12V....The Bachmann would run hot at 18V or burn out....
Will LGB run on 12V??
- Thread starter tramcar trev
- Start date
Trev,
lower voltage simply equates to lower speed, assuming your controller capable of at least 0.5 amps output. I use a 12v 2 amp power unit to run my LGB shuttle circuit. The unit runs at 10 volts and gives me suitable speed with both LGB and Aristo motor blocks (single motor). 18 volts would just turn your tram into a slot car.
lower voltage simply equates to lower speed, assuming your controller capable of at least 0.5 amps output. I use a 12v 2 amp power unit to run my LGB shuttle circuit. The unit runs at 10 volts and gives me suitable speed with both LGB and Aristo motor blocks (single motor). 18 volts would just turn your tram into a slot car.
I have several LGB & Lehmann locos.
All run quite well on 12V batteries.
Speed is typically tramway compatible.
All run quite well on 12V batteries.
Speed is typically tramway compatible.
I have even wired up an LGB 2076 (the small Harz 0-4-0 2 rail not the battery version) to run on a PP9 9volt Battery. Does not go very fast and will not run all day, but it does run.
Reckon for Test Purposes the LGB Tram would do the same as it is the same motor block.
JonD
Reckon for Test Purposes the LGB Tram would do the same as it is the same motor block.
JonD
decades ago (before we had electricity) i operated my (then) two stainzes from a 12 volt car battery.
Presumably you recharged the battery with a Traeger set??? He was another German and was also on a list and claimed to be an Aussie....korm kormsen said:
So I can safely buy the LGB pair reassured that it will run on my 12V 15A supply...
Thank you for your answers....
Trev, in the unlikely event of your LGB tram running too slowly on 12V you could try wiring the motor directly to the track.
I suspect that the on board electronics introduce a voltage drop between track and motor. I also suspect the drop may vary with the age/version of the model.
I suspect that the on board electronics introduce a voltage drop between track and motor. I also suspect the drop may vary with the age/version of the model.
LGB actually stated that you could use a car battery. I think it was in that 'World of LGB' leaflet/booklet thingy.
A car battery in good nick and fully charged is at about 13.2 V anyway.
Edit: Page 93 here
http://www.champex-linden.de/download_fremddokumente/lgb_00559_explore_the_world_of_lgb.pdf
A car battery in good nick and fully charged is at about 13.2 V anyway.
Edit: Page 93 here
http://www.champex-linden.de/download_fremddokumente/lgb_00559_explore_the_world_of_lgb.pdf
We have always run LGB locos on a 13.8 (nominally 12v) 22amp power supply. Never had a problem with power or voltage. Speed has been fine with everything run so far. I have recently taken to running "my" stock rather than hers which is all track powered, using battery power made up of Li-ion 12v packs small enough to fit into the locos with cheap RC control. Worse scenario about three hours running pulling skips, but will admit to getting bored and they were actually not slowing down appreciably.
tramcar trev said:
LGB's/ Marklin's motors are designed to run at 0-24 volts. At 18 volts and more, the locos are going very fast indeed. For a tram's speeds, a range of 9-12 volts is almost certainly all you need, so go ahead without a moment's worry. If the tram is running too slow for you, remove any pickup skates and it will magically run faster as you've removed the major source of rolling resistance.
whatlep said:
I was not implying that you stuck 18 volts donw the track, I meant that they would run happily enough with an 18v controller, which I assumed was where the question started.
OK, OK, never assume anything :Looser:
Rhinochugger said:
A long held belief was that Bachmann Big Haulers were really only suitable for 14 volts maximum. This may be motor related or possibly that running 18 volts on a four foot circle would lead to a derailment. B'mann early motors were not renowned for quality so possibly voltage related. Of cause later versions as in the high quality Spectrum models, the electronics are good for DCC voltages so the motor quality must have improved.
Using a max of 12 volts with LGB locos it depends on whether or not they have the voltage stabiliser circuits fitted.
Typically those with the stabiliser circuits bleed the first 6 volts to power sound and lights. That means the loco can stand still until 6 + volts is going to the loco. Then the loco can speed up. Obviously 12 volts is going to mean a very slow top speed.
If the loco does not have stabilised lighting voltages such as the older Stainz etc then 12 volts will be just fine.
Typically those with the stabiliser circuits bleed the first 6 volts to power sound and lights. That means the loco can stand still until 6 + volts is going to the loco. Then the loco can speed up. Obviously 12 volts is going to mean a very slow top speed.
If the loco does not have stabilised lighting voltages such as the older Stainz etc then 12 volts will be just fine.
AWRYPres said:korm kormsen said:
Please walk me through this non-electric car battery.
here we go! threaddrift!
the first six years here in the southamerican wilderness we weren't connected to any powergrid.
that meant petrol-fridge, gas freezer, coal pressiron, wind and motorpumps for water, dieselpowered washing mashine, cooking on firewood, radio on batteries, tv at 300 miles, and so on. think of it as permanent wilderness vacation.
well, could you stand six years without running your toys? i can't. so i connected a ford-lightmashine and regulator to the pump motor, hooked up three old car batteries (plus on plus)
for speedregulation i cannibalized an oldfashioned radio loudness regulator and off i went... not me, but the trains.
i had no electricity - just 12 volts...
got the idea years before from a man who had worked somewhere in afrika and was a trainnut too.
Have you considered using a power inverter and convert your 12v DC to 120V AC?
You can then just plug your 120V power supply to the inverter, and run your trains.
1000 watt ones run around $100.00 new & have a peak of around 1400 watts
but are rated for 1000 watts continuous.
I have one that I bought when I drove OTR Semi's (to power my fridge & tv)
and would like to eventually use it to supply 120V AC power to my layout.
I plan on connecting the inverter to a 12V deep cycle battery charged with solar
panels. Then plug my Aristo 10Amp power supply into the inverter to power
the track.
You can then just plug your 120V power supply to the inverter, and run your trains.
1000 watt ones run around $100.00 new & have a peak of around 1400 watts
but are rated for 1000 watts continuous.
I have one that I bought when I drove OTR Semi's (to power my fridge & tv)
and would like to eventually use it to supply 120V AC power to my layout.
I plan on connecting the inverter to a 12V deep cycle battery charged with solar
panels. Then plug my Aristo 10Amp power supply into the inverter to power
the track.