Will LGB 30 percent R 2 curves be too narrow for a Aristo-Craft US type 4-6-2 Pacific?

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I know that Bachmann Big hauler 4-6-0 can take R 1-R 2 curves because there are no flanges on the middle drivers, but what about the somewhat bigger US type Pacific 4-6-2 like Aristo Craft 21403 ? Will R 2 radius curves be suficcent? Do you know how quality is on these Engines?

Have a nice weekend

Claes
 
The Aristo. will not go round LGB R2 curves, sorry.
Quality is (was) good. - They have not been made for some time now. What you get can be very variable, depending on how it has been looked after, and how much running it has had.
They have multiple motors, and gearboxes, and it is difficult to ge any spares for these.
 
Earlier Aristo Pacifics had a few problems and the chassis was redesigned. It was a major revision and an old body isn't a straight fit on the redesigned chassis. The main thing to look out for on some later examples, in common with many of their contemporary steam outline models, is loose drivers causing out of quarter rod jamming. Don't try to fix by simply attempting to tighten the screw. This may cause damage as Aristo used copious amunts of thread locking compound and the problem lies with the taper between wheel and axle. Greg Elmassian's very helpful and comprehensive site goes into detail on this issue.
 
Aristo steam only has one motor.... (the 2-8-8-2 being the exception)

Don't try the Pacific or Mikado on less than R3.

As PhilP noted, they can be iffy, the fixing of the wheels to the axles is such that they can slip and destroy siderod gear... you want to see it running before buying...

The gear train is pretty indestructible (that's why a slipping wheel destroys siderods, not the gears)

Greg
 
Hello!
Many thanks for your comments. Yes, this loco is too big for the R 2's, but I was enticed by a Milwauke coloured Pacificin good condition on Ebay. I will choose a loco with shorter wheelbase instead, such as Bachmann Big Hauler Annie version or smaller.

Claes
 
That's obviously the problem with the bigger engines. They may look good, but unless you've a big garden, they're pretty impractical to actually "test"
 
Above posters are correct, R2 is too tight for a locomotive with 6 drivers and that explains the plain drivers on some Bachmann. On my layout, I have only locomotives and rolling stock with no more than 4 wheels per truck or drive wheels on engines. I guess you could remove the flanges on he center drivers, but that would be a shame on an expensive locomotive.
Using no more than four drivers doesn't prevent me from having large engines, however.
 

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Above posters are correct, R2 is too tight for a locomotive with 6 drivers and that explains the plain drivers on some Bachmann. On my layout, I have only locomotives and rolling stock with no more than 4 wheels per truck or drive wheels on engines. I guess you could remove the flanges on he center drivers, but that would be a shame on an expensive locomotive.
Using no more than four drivers doesn't prevent me from having large engines, however.
Whilst what you are saying is relevant to the Loco in question with this thread it is not a relevant comment with regard to many other makes, I have LGB 2-10-2’s that happily even if silly lookingly negotiate R1’s.
 
LGB made a commitment - I have views on it - that everything would always go round R1s

That's OK if you want to be locked in to LGB prices :wondering::wondering::wondering::wondering:
 
Thanks, yes I have looked on LGB 2-8-2:s too, US and French? but they are very expesive, and they are almost overpriced on the auctions. I hope that someone soner or later put out one for spares and part on Ebay, but since quality is very good I have to wait. :wondering:
 
too_sharp.jpg


This is the worst example I have seen, R1 and a really long loco. (GG-1 for those unfamiliar)
 
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I would go for LGB R3 or equivalent as a minimum for G scale, unless you are running LGB stock itself? Even the larger LGB locos look a little odd negotiating R1 radii....
 
For the Aristo locos the op mentioned, 10 foot is generally accepted as a good working minimum. Running the Aristo steamers, Bachmann steamers (like K27) on 8 foot can be iffy, also as a beginner, your trackwork needs to be of a higher standard if you are pushing the minimum radius/diameter.

Again, I am reacting to what the OP asked, and I have basically one of each of the Aristo steamers, diesels, and also have some nicer stuff that definitely won't go on 8 foot, like the USAT Hudson, and the AML K4...

When building your layout one of the biggest mistakes is to not "fight" for the largest curves you can accomplish. Often a little more planning and ingenuity can help ease tight curves.

Greg
 
Yes, that is true Greg, even for bigger Marklin Gauge I steamlocos with tender the maker recommends at least R 3 curves, but wider is better and more true to the reality. ;)
 
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