Which chassis for GRSUK NE 0-6-0 loco body kit

[65 1057]

I would like to enlarge my British NG fleet, so I need some advise which (LGB-) chassis will fit properly into the GRSUK-kit "NE 0-6-0 Loco Body Kit".
It will be track-powered, converted to DCC and equipped with a pulsed smoke generator - and sound.
Any advises / do's & don'ts concerning the GRSUK-kit including glue & painting recommendations are highly welcome since it will be my first loco kit to be assembled, and before I throw everything om the wall...
Thank you all!

 

[Rhinochugger]

I would like to enlarge my British NG fleet, so I need some advise which (LGB-) chassis will fit properly into the GRSUK-kit "NE 0-6-0 Loco Body Kit".
It will be track-powered, converted to DCC and equipped with a pulsed smoke generator - and sound.
Any advises / do's & don'ts concerning the GRSUK-kit including glue & painting recommendations are highly welcome since it will be my first loco kit to be assembled, and before I throw everything om the wall...
Thank you all!

What about the GRS chassis? comes with flywheel motor which has two advantages:

1. Reduces load on the gearbox (no sudden starts, stops or stutters)
2. Helps over dodgy track contact

 

[65 1057]

This is certainly one option, and the GRS chassis will definitively fit.
I was just curious whether somebody has already customized a standard 2-6-0 LGB Chassis, e.g. from the Mogul or the "Spreewald".
Or will a 0-6-0 LGB Corpet-Louvet-Chassis also fit onto this NE 0-6-0 Loco Body Kit and still look nicely?

 

[SevenOfDiamonds]

You don't say whether you have already bought the GRS loco body kit or not. If you have, you may want to stop reading here!

I went through a similar thought process a few years ago, though the other way round. I had a second-hand LGB Spreewald loco, and wanted to "anglicise" it. I bought the GRS NE Tank Loco kit but quickly realised that I would need to modify the chassis in places (the cab steps were in the wrong place, for example) and I was uncomfortable about not being able to restore it to "as built" condition if i didn't like the result.

Although some of the later GRS kits use moulded resin parts, the NE Tank 'kit' might be considered to be one step up from scratch-building. It consists of a number of appropriately-shaped pieces of 80 thou plasticard, with the boiler (and cab roof, I think) already bent to shape, plus a myriad of whitemetal castings to create the detail. I reasoned that I could make my own body that fitted the Spreewald chassis as it was. A quick trial with cardboard (cereal packet) suggested it would look acceptable, so I went ahead in black plasticard, using the whitemetal castings from the kit (that can be bought separately). The result (which I don't claim to be anything more than "good enough for me") has been seen at various exhibitions and open days, and has appeared on G Scale Central in some of David1226's 'Pics of the Day' (including this from 7th February 2018) . . .



I know I haven't answered your question but (as long as you haven't already made your purchase) perhaps I've suggested another way to "enlarge your British NG fleet".

Best wishes

David

 

[dunnyrail]

I feel that David has hit on the right path. However depending on what you are trying to achieve the suggestion of a GRS Chassis earlier in this thread would give you a Gauge 1 loco I believe. Is this what you want or a G Scale one with messed about Scale/Gauge relationship? The NE of BR had no Narrow Gauge Steam Locomotives.

I did try in vain to see what you were working on but presumably it is an old GRS Kit that no longer features in their online catalogue?

 

[maxi-model]

It's still very much on their site Jon - N E 0-6-0T LOCO BODY

It's annoying that they give no details of its construction or suitable chassis other than their own CHASSIS KIT 0-6-0 O/SIDE CYL 45MM gauge . Their chassis tend to need a bit of fettling in the bearing fitment and motions department, I have built one of their L&B 2-6-2's but that was resin and white metal and a bit larger. Hence their higher price.

Painting and construction very much as with any styrene model, except the white metal bits.

GRS have repackaged other G3/1:22.5 models of standard gauge prototypes as "freelance" NG products at various times - e.g their Wisbeach & Upwell coaches. I had a pair of those running behind my RH Lady Anne, looked about in proportion. Max

 

[Rhinochugger]

Their chassis tend to need a bit of fettling in the bearing fitment and motions department, QUOTE]

To be fair, that's probably the norm with any kit-built chassis in any gauge.

However, it's worth pointing out, as we all have different levels of skill and understanding about what makes a good kit, and as has been rightly pointed out, some of the early GRS stuff was hard work.

I used their L&B valve gear for my 2-6-2 (all the stuff was available separately at one time) but it arrived without all the parts shown in the image, and I was cheerfully advised that I could make those missing parts up from some discs of plastikard

 

[65 1057]

Although some of the later GRS kits use moulded resin parts, the NE Tank 'kit' might be considered to be one step up from scratch-building. It consists of a number of appropriately-shaped pieces of 80 thou plasticard, with the boiler (and cab roof, I think) already bent to shape, plus a myriad of whitemetal castings to create the detail. I reasoned that I could make my own body that fitted the Spreewald chassis as it was.

I know I haven't answered your question but (as long as you haven't already made your purchase) perhaps I've suggested another way to "enlarge your British NG fleet".

Best wishes

David

Thank you so much for sharing your experience (and the word of warning), David!
Don't be modest - your black beauty would be more than just good enough for my layout!

I have to admit I was so naive to believe that this particular GRS kit , which could serve as a larger NG loco body, and a slightly modified LGB chassis would work together, similar to Rik's PECKETT-conversion with a LGB OTTO-Chassis and a GRS Body kit....

So I will focus on my other favorite - the pdf quarry Hunslet with cabin, and "LINDA" looks also very attractive.
I asked for DCC conversion etc., and PDF-Models answered me already:
"All my wheels on my kits are insulated so many people have converted to use track power and I can supply a 24V motor with the kit please let me know and I can get that sorted out for you many thanks Peter and Leanne"

Sounds like a nice alternative...

Andreas

 

[PhilP]

Useful to know PDF Models will supply a more 'DCC friendly' motor..

 

[maxi-model]

The PDF models look very nice as finished articles and at the build stage in the videos. I'd be interested in building one, I've always fancied a double Fairley. They must be commended for making, novel to this hobby, this method of production as its basis of manufacture. However, what concerns me is the initial surface finish of 3D printed models, not clear in the pictures and videos, and how best to correct/level this out. How practical is rubbing down/filling all the exterior surfaces to get a nice smooth finish to start painting on ?

I was interested in their Bedford lorry as a first foray into this type of kit but could not get my head round the "striated" finish of the product as supplied against traditionally molded resin and brass products I am used to. Even though they seem to offer very good value. I seem to remember at this year's Peterborough show seeing one 3D maker (could even have been PDF) offering a "solvent" smoothed finished kit product as an option to avoid the need for sanding and filling. Max

Edit - The double Fairley is 32 mm only and I run 45 mm Bwaaah !

 

[Rhinochugger]

The PDF models look very nice as finished articles and at the build stage in the videos. I'd be interested in building one, I've always fancied a double Fairley. They must be commended for making, novel to this hobby, this method of production as its basis of manufacture. However, what concerns me is the initial surface finish of 3D printed models, not clear in the pictures and videos, and how best to correct/level this out. How practical is rubbing down/filling all the exterior surfaces to get a nice smooth finish to start painting on ?

I was interested in their Bedford lorry as a first foray into this type of kit but could not get my head round the "striated" finish of the product as supplied against traditionally molded resin and brass products I am used to. Even though they seem to offer very good value. I seem to remember at this year's Peterborough show seeing one 3D maker (could even have been PDF) offering a "solvent" smoothed finished kit product as an option to avoid the need for sanding and filling. Max

The Baldwin has caught my eye for a while, but I seem to have obtained quite a collection of small narrow gauge dismals, and I want a bigger one

So I also keep looking at Worsley Works SA class 91

 

[musket the dog]

The PDF models look very nice as finished articles and at the build stage in the videos. I'd be interested in building one, I've always fancied a double Fairley. They must be commended for making, novel to this hobby, this method of production as its basis of manufacture. However, what concerns me is the initial surface finish of 3D printed models, not clear in the pictures and videos, and how best to correct/level this out. How practical is rubbing down/filling all the exterior surfaces to get a nice smooth finish to start painting on ?

I was interested in their Bedford lorry as a first foray into this type of kit but could not get my head round the "striated" finish of the product as supplied against traditionally molded resin and brass products I am used to. Even though they seem to offer very good value. I seem to remember at this year's Peterborough show seeing one 3D maker (could even have been PDF) offering a "solvent" smoothed finished kit product as an option to avoid the need for sanding and filling. Max

It might not be as difficult as you would think. In the past I have used filler primer to smooth it out. Available from Halfords as an aerosol with a bright yellow cap. Basically a primer that flows quite well so you don't lose too much detail underneath and fills the crevices with a chalky, easy to sand paint. I haven't needed much more than one coat, followed my a coat of normal primer to hide the layering of the manufacture method.

Certainly a more work than a resin or brass surface, but no more difficult then making some wooden kits look acceptable. I don't have a railway themed picture to hand, but the car in the picture below is constructed from some very coarse balsa wood with the front and rear aerofoil sections made on my schools 3D printer 8 years ago. That left everything it touched with a honeycomb texture on its surface.

PDF's models do look very good though. Have to keep reminding myself that it would be very impractical to start a whole 32mm line just for when their WD Hunslet come around to being released.