What to lay, Piko or Aristo...?

Zerogee

Clencher's Bogleman
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Hopefully in the next few weeks I will finally get the time to lay some track into the trackbed that I've had waiting for well over a year.... and I'm looking for some advice.
For a long straight section along the back of the garden, I have the choice of laying some Aristocraft track (3 foot lengths) with the screwed joiners as supplied, OR using some Piko track in 1200mm lengths with the joiners removed and Massoth railclamps fitted. I already have both types of track, having over-bought considerably as we all do - after the layout is down I will have to cull and sell off some of the surplus - and both lots are brand new (the Piko was bought second-hand but boxed and unused).
The question is, which should I use? Does either make have any real advantages or disadvantages in long term use, is one easier to keep clean, does one discolour more etc...? I know there is the initial colour difference both in rails (the Aristo is much "yellower" brass) and the sleepers (Aristo black to Piko brown), but this is along the back straight and won't be too noticeable - also I'm using some Aristo wide curves at the front of the layout anyway, so it's a bit late to be worrying about the colour difference - what I'm after is any advice on whether one is any better than the other in use?

Thanks!
Jon.
 
It's all very much of a muchness Jon.

I would personally go for the PIKO as it isn't so golden yellow, but the short sections of ART track I have haven't tarnished and seems to need less cleaning....
 
Doesn't Aristo have a reputation for taking longer to tarnish on the sides too? (JRinTawa mentioned it IIRC) - it stays 'cleaner' for longer, but doesn't blacken on the rail sides as quickly as LGB. Not sure about Piko.

But if this is down the back, and not so visible, the slower tarnishing off the rail surface could be an advantage :)
 
Aristo doesn't go brown in the way that LGB does.

But to hell with the colour - I'd go for Aristo screwed fishh plates every time given the choice :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
Most of my track is Aristo and I rarely have any continuity problems,it doesn't blacken like Lgb track but doesn't need cleaning as often either
 
I have Aristo, usat, lgb and accucraft track. My strategy is to use whatever is cheapest at the time. Can't say i have noticed any real difference in performance Over the years the only one which looks different is the accucraft - the sleepers are still quite light brown and the track hasn't darkened down much.

Points are a different matter. The arrangement I have found most reliable in terms of working and not derailing is Aristo wide radius points driven by LGB motors. No knowledge of Piko whatsoever but then I haven't bought very much track over the last few years.
 
Thanks chaps! I think on balance that I'll probably use the Aristo, especially as several of you have said it seems to stay cleaner - this particular area will be a pain to keep clean anyway, it's along under a row of tall Leylandii, so anything that helps in that regard will be good!
Ah well, might have some long Piko straights to re-sell soonish then..... ;)

Jon.

PS: Colin - love the EDF "happy dancing poo" as your offline avatar.... :bigsmile:
 
Hi Jon
I have both LGB and Aristo. As has been said it has taken a very long time for the yellow to dull down (a real bugbear for my realism detailing pretensions) but the screwed fishplates are great to use, provided you can get at the screws when it is laid if you decide to change things. Mine runs through rocks etc so some screws are a no go area! I have tended to try to use clamps in awkward places.
As to the colour, I have painted my Aristo track in the main Beaver Creek station area and have just got hold of a Testors/Floquil track-weathering pen to 'colour up' any new track that gets laid in the future.
 
I have a mixture of LGB and Aristo. I have found that the Aristo fishplates don't hold up nearly as well as the LGB do. When I was running track power, I soldered every rail joint with a jumper wire. No matter what brand of fishplate you have, sooner or later the continuity becomes less continuous. Railclamps are an alternative, but they are still only a mechanical fastener. Since I converted to battery power, all of the above means nothing.
 
Ah since I was mentioned in earlier dispatches :laugh: I only have Aristocraft track outside, and it does take years to loose the brass yellow, but it does eventually dull but maybe not as black as a nearby railway laid in LGB track. That said I have no continuity problems where as the layout with LGB track has had lots of problems. BUT like all things different locations, different abilities in laying the track etc means what works for one doesn't for the other. (I should be a politician with that answer!) Anyway I use the longest track lengths you have available where access is restricted - so I vote for you using Aristo :bigsmile:
 
JRinTawa said:
Anyway I use the longest track lengths you have available where access is restricted

Now that is a good piece of advice. The longer the pieces of track the fewer connections and therefore less to go wrong.
 
Chris M said:
JRinTawa said:
Anyway I use the longest track lengths you have available where access is restricted

Now that is a good piece of advice. The longer the pieces of track the fewer connections and therefore less to go wrong.

.... Which would actually mean I should use the Piko, because they are 1200mm as I said in my original post! The Aristo are 36", or nearer 900mm..... ah, decisions, decisions.....! ;)

Jon.
 
Zerogee said:
Chris M said:
JRinTawa said:
Anyway I use the longest track lengths you have available where access is restricted

Now that is a good piece of advice. The longer the pieces of track the fewer connections and therefore less to go wrong.

.... Which would actually mean I should use the Piko, because they are 1200mm as I said in my original post! The Aristo are 36", or nearer 900mm..... ah, decisions, decisions.....! ;)

Jon.

There is of course flexitrack at 1500mm but I bend both ways on using it ....ooh err missus... &o :rolf:
 
beavercreek said:
Zerogee said:
Chris M said:
JRinTawa said:
Anyway I use the longest track lengths you have available where access is restricted

Now that is a good piece of advice. The longer the pieces of track the fewer connections and therefore less to go wrong.

.... Which would actually mean I should use the Piko, because they are 1200mm as I said in my original post! The Aristo are 36", or nearer 900mm..... ah, decisions, decisions.....! ;)

Jon.

There is of course flexitrack at 1500mm but I bend both ways on using it ....ooh err missus... &o :rolf:

Your personal proclivities in that area are of no concern to this forum, Mike.... ;)
The point is that I am trying to choose between the two types that I ALREADY HAVE, so getting rid of both of them and buying 1500mm flexi is not really a practical option.... :bigsmile:

Jon
 
Zerogee said:
Your personal proclivities in that area are of no concern to this forum, Mike.... ;)
The point is that I am trying to choose between the two types that I ALREADY HAVE, so getting rid of both of them and buying 1500mm flexi is not really a practical option.... :bigsmile:

Jon
Hey Jon, you have the machinery, why not make 2400 out of the 1200s! Tee Hee
 
beavercreek said:
Zerogee said:
Your personal proclivities in that area are of no concern to this forum, Mike.... ;)
The point is that I am trying to choose between the two types that I ALREADY HAVE, so getting rid of both of them and buying 1500mm flexi is not really a practical option.... :bigsmile:

Jon
Hey Jon, you have the machinery, why not make 2400 out of the 1200s! Tee Hee

Are we on the strong medication for the back again, Mike...? :rolf:

How's it going for the Open Day on Sunday - got the Massoth all wired in yet? :bigsmile:
 
Rhinochugger said:
But to hell with the colour - I'd go for Aristo screwed fish plates every time given the choice

I find I have to replace some Aristo fish plates every spring; they tend to crack in the winter months -- but my winters are probably a little more drastic than yours in the various ~sexes.
 
Aristo every time in as long lengths as possible, with LGB points drilled to accept the screw connected railjoiners.
Neater than Hillman type rail clamps and a darn sight cheaper, only an occasional joint needs to be tightened with an allen key after the winter is required.
 
Zerogee said:
Ah well, might have some long Piko straights to re-sell soonish then..... ;)

Jon.
Might need a 1200 mm length for the double tracking of the Quarry Branch if you've one for disposal Jon....
 
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