Chris Vernell
Three score and nineteen
BTDT 
What happened at your workbench today?
- Thread starter Henri
- Start date
Some of my best tools are the ones I made at school. My machine vice is now 50 years old, and still works a treat.
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Many of my tools are fairly new - I can wreck things with ease 
I do have an Elora socket set, 99% intact, bought for about £20 in the lateish 60s from the tool shop in Garret Lane, Wimbledon. The 19mm socket split (wheelnut size) and recently the reverser tab on the ratchet broke off, but I can still turn it with pliers
I do have an Elora socket set, 99% intact, bought for about £20 in the lateish 60s from the tool shop in Garret Lane, Wimbledon. The 19mm socket split (wheelnut size) and recently the reverser tab on the ratchet broke off, but I can still turn it with pliers
Northsider
Modelling the Northern half of the Isle of Man
What a difference a week makes!
There's still a lot more to do. I need to decide how to power it, with an Appletree Railway motor/gearbox being my preferred choice if it will fit, and if there's a batch in production. After that, it's r/c (I have a supplier in mind
) and then detailing...
There's still a lot more to do. I need to decide how to power it, with an Appletree Railway motor/gearbox being my preferred choice if it will fit, and if there's a batch in production. After that, it's r/c (I have a supplier in mind
) and then detailing...
Northsider
Modelling the Northern half of the Isle of Man
Well, a quick measure up scuppered any plans for an Appletree motor/gearbox, so I had a look at the other options: mostly 3D printed, with nylon gears. And then there were the £100+ options. Looking at them, it struck me that what was needed was effectively a box section, and I had a motor and worm gear (condition unknown) in my box of bits...
I then discovered a lengthy of 25mm square aluminium, which got marked out, and drilled to take a Como 385 motor, and the 3/16th" axles.
The motor was fitted to it:
...and the pinion gear aligned and tightened.
A power pack was attached and....success!
There are a few bugs to iron out, but it's making progress.
I then discovered a lengthy of 25mm square aluminium, which got marked out, and drilled to take a Como 385 motor, and the 3/16th" axles.
The motor was fitted to it:
...and the pinion gear aligned and tightened.
A power pack was attached and....success!
There are a few bugs to iron out, but it's making progress.
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Your versions are a bit neater than mine
John Randall
Registered
This is what the underside of a county Donegal railcar no 10 llooks like from the same supplier.
Attachments
John Randall
Registered
It will be !Now why isn't that wire fed through the hole in the stretcher?
PhilP.
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
So, next up in the RC/battery/sound conversion queue - Accucraft Goose #2. Body off. General arrangement of bits to install. Like Goose #7 all supplied by RC Trains. Looks very sound with little use. Bought in original track powered condition, unlike #7. Not seen this pick up arrangement before, see picture. Single wire rubbing against an axle, one polarity rear the other on front.How does that work in the axle insulation dept ? Or am I as usual being very dumb, as usual. Anyhow it does not matter given what I am doing. Now where are those pictures of #7 install ? Max
Hm could it be that the nearside is plastic or some other insulated material and the other metal? The cross piece would also need to be insulated material as well.
Northsider
Modelling the Northern half of the Isle of Man
Thanks -that's really useful! You've got a smaller motor -I had to remove the chassis stretcher in order to fit the Como motor, so it's currently more like a nose-hung tramway traction motor.
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Quite common with Accucraft models, harks back to the days of metal chassis used in smaller scale modelling
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
I think that the white nylon bearing is doing the insulating/isolating job. It's the same on the rear powered bogie, that also swivels in its mount. I would hate to think how it would perform on a less than perfectly conductive track. Like mine was, as I found out, becoming. My Goose #7 arrived converted to battery operation so most evidence was lost. And though my Accucraft K-27 uses different pick ups it had a similar "lopsided" arrangement shared between loco and tender. That one's erratic performance started my "battery odyssey". Now I understand why. Max
Indeed so, good to have another convert to the battery cause. I cant imagine now cleaning my track any more even though it is not at ground level.
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Yep, the obvious drawback of such a system is that it halves the number of electrical pick-up points, and as we all know, 'points make prizes.'
Which is why I bought a very expensive pair of Bachmann tender bogies with pick-ups for my 10-wheeler (the front bogie pick-ups proving rather troublesome after I had shortened the bogie to make it look less like the Tweetsie original on which the chassis is based).
Usually, a full set of driving wheel and bogie tender wheel pick-ups are adequate - smaller locos join the battery fleet
Northsider
Modelling the Northern half of the Isle of Man
Now painted in a more suitable livery for my line. The lining needs a tweak, and then there are batteries to think of, and where best to put them.
Fezwig
Just a man in the middle of a complicated plan.
Looking forward to see the railcar finished next then
Northsider
Modelling the Northern half of the Isle of Man
I looks like I can fit two Strikalite AAA x 5 battery packs, one under the bonnet and the other over the rear axle; and the MR603 right at the rear. I'll wire them in series to get 12V; I don't need a long run time. I hope to use a cam-operated microswitch for on/off, using the starting handle in a similar way to the ratchet brake on MER tram No 23...
