Too true, had it 6 years still haven't figured out the double heading feature but more so as i have no real need to use it.
What DDC control system is everyone using, views required?
- Thread starter wandgrudd
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Too true, had it 6 years still haven't figured out the double heading feature but more so as i have no real need to use it.
Yep, consisting, as it is called in the NMRA spec, can be implemented about 3 different ways, each has it's advantages and disadvantages.
One beauty of DCC is often the source of confusion. People seem to be driven to want to understand / be proficient in ALL of it, and for example, the manual on my QSI decoders is 468 pages.
I don't use all the features, I use the ones I want, and only use those settings, and only those features in my Zimo.
So I use sound functions, addressing, consisting and turnout (point) control.
To be fair, if you have an analog loco, a "faultless" demonstration is forwards, backwards, and stop. I cannot believe that you have never seen this demonstrated in DCC.
What I can believe is someone trying to "show off" a bunch of really sophisticated features, and maybe getting something wrong. But comparing base analog operation to a sophisticated DCC demonstration is really apples to oranges.
I use a limited set of features, but am still light years ahead of analog operation and capability. I accept that I will have to remember more and do more to get these features, but the payback in "fun" is worth it to me.
Isn't this what you guys call "horses for courses"?
Greg
One beauty of DCC is often the source of confusion. People seem to be driven to want to understand / be proficient in ALL of it, and for example, the manual on my QSI decoders is 468 pages.
I don't use all the features, I use the ones I want, and only use those settings, and only those features in my Zimo.
So I use sound functions, addressing, consisting and turnout (point) control.
To be fair, if you have an analog loco, a "faultless" demonstration is forwards, backwards, and stop. I cannot believe that you have never seen this demonstrated in DCC.
What I can believe is someone trying to "show off" a bunch of really sophisticated features, and maybe getting something wrong. But comparing base analog operation to a sophisticated DCC demonstration is really apples to oranges.
I use a limited set of features, but am still light years ahead of analog operation and capability. I accept that I will have to remember more and do more to get these features, but the payback in "fun" is worth it to me.
Isn't this what you guys call "horses for courses"?
Greg
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No, that is a different hobby..
AND, is even more expensive (and exclusive) than Garden Railways!
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Hi Wangrudd - I need to respond to what I feel are misconceptions you have about the Märklin CS3.
Of course there are "other options" with the CS3. The now integrated web browser interface essentially puts the CS3 display and touch screen control on your phone, tablet, or laptop. Plus the VNC interface to your phone, tablet and laptop is also still available. You don't get the "analog dial" speed control but the touch sensitive bar graph speed control is almost as good, missing only the tactile feel of a dial. And, if you want the dial control, the new navigator/wireless system accessories answer that need. Apparently, Märklin did actually listen to what some (myself included) saw as a major drawback to the CS3.
Having the graphical track display complete with touch control of turnouts always displayed in the background of your "controller" (phone, etc.) is a great advantage as compared to calling up turnouts by numerical input. I don't think you'd ever want to go back once you actually use it. It is a dispatchers board in a sense, but with touch screen zoom in/out and move about.
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No, that is a different hobby..
AND, is even more expensive (and exclusive) than Garden Railways!
Woops, that reminds me, Racing Club subs are now due.
Not to take the discussion too far off track
, but you are familiar with my setup, Phil - Deltang/MyLocoSound/Battery - system; I have always wondered what over-the-air DCC does that I can't. Even tho' I am almost a year into my first RC conversion, I still turn it on just to see the headlight stay on when the train stops - and it gets better from there. 
David
Not to take the discussion too far off track
David
Well, it really depends on the decoder! - And how many functions the 'over-air' system supports?
What do you get:
Nearly full control of all DCC functions (see above). Better match of sound-schema to the locomotive model. Possibly 'better' ancillary sounds?
Like battery R/C, it depends what you have, and what you implement:
If you only connect R/C to motor, that is all you control. Add lights.. Add sound.. Wire more control...
Same for DCC. - If you do not have a sound decoder to start with, you don't get sound!
Oh, and the lights stay on when you stop with DCC as well!
I originally started out with MTS as I got a good deal on controller, transformer and handheld from a shop. I moved to Massoth after about 6 months purely because (a) I'd heard great things about it on the GSM forum, (b) I'd seen a demonstration and liked the Navigator as a controller, and (c) I happened to be in a shop when they had just posted in their secondhand stock a 1200Z and a Navigator at around half price!
I like the Massoth equipment - it covers all the features I use and are planning to use - and, apart from a display failure on the central station (caused bt me dropping it and repaired by Massoth in a couple of weeks), it has been very reliable. If I have a niggle it is that I find that swapping between locos and operations mode (e.g. loco to points operation and back) is cumbersome. In fact, I've invested in a second, different coloured Navi which I use simply to control points and switch routes to make things a bit easier for me.
This is a personal thing - I've always found that multi-purpose equipment can often be mediocre at everything and that purpose-built items are almost always better at carrying out the task they were designed to do. As an example, consider using an electric drill as a screwdriver. Yes, you can fit a screwdriver bit into it, and yes the variable speed ones give you some degree of control, but any drill worth its salt will be heavier to use than an electric screwdriver and will often be too cumbersome for more precise screwing (if you get my drift).
However, compared to some controllers I've seen in operation I think the Navi is streets ahead - I saw someone demonstrating one recently in a shop that required pressing multiple buttons to activate different sound and light functions (as opposed to the Navi's single key press) and had no visible indication of what was being controlled. Great if all you ever do is run a single loco but seems like a challenge if you want to run two or three. Still, I guess I'll probably end up buying another Navi as my grey matter gets more scrambled and I want to make sure I know which loco I'm controlling!
Hopefully whichever way you decide to go will give you trouble-free operation and help you enjoy your trains.
I like the Massoth equipment - it covers all the features I use and are planning to use - and, apart from a display failure on the central station (caused bt me dropping it and repaired by Massoth in a couple of weeks), it has been very reliable. If I have a niggle it is that I find that swapping between locos and operations mode (e.g. loco to points operation and back) is cumbersome. In fact, I've invested in a second, different coloured Navi which I use simply to control points and switch routes to make things a bit easier for me.
This is a personal thing - I've always found that multi-purpose equipment can often be mediocre at everything and that purpose-built items are almost always better at carrying out the task they were designed to do. As an example, consider using an electric drill as a screwdriver. Yes, you can fit a screwdriver bit into it, and yes the variable speed ones give you some degree of control, but any drill worth its salt will be heavier to use than an electric screwdriver and will often be too cumbersome for more precise screwing (if you get my drift).
However, compared to some controllers I've seen in operation I think the Navi is streets ahead - I saw someone demonstrating one recently in a shop that required pressing multiple buttons to activate different sound and light functions (as opposed to the Navi's single key press) and had no visible indication of what was being controlled. Great if all you ever do is run a single loco but seems like a challenge if you want to run two or three. Still, I guess I'll probably end up buying another Navi as my grey matter gets more scrambled and I want to make sure I know which loco I'm controlling!
Hopefully whichever way you decide to go will give you trouble-free operation and help you enjoy your trains.
I am currently using a recently purchased Revolution DCC setup as a track-side controller. I have retired an LGB MTS I and LGB MTS IIP, the sprog3 I had quit on me (bricking an engine when it went). I have used the proprietary (non-DCC) Revolution system since its early days with total satisfaction. I became addicted to the wireless capability quickly. I have only one DCC engine that doesn't work on the Revolution DCC, a very early LGB serial mode engine that came with an MTS I DCC starter set.
I think maybe that answers the query ---Hutch
I started using DCC 10 years ago and it is much better than DC. I can remotely dump loads from Gondolas (at a show it would be packaged candy) and dump from the metal slag car.
Also I have made several engines uncouple via Zimo waltz function (press uncouple and the engine reverses, opens the coupler and then moves forward all on its own!!).
Added benefit is sound is programmable in the ZImo decoders and you can update to the latest firmware via a USB stick on your own.
Also I have made several engines uncouple via Zimo waltz function (press uncouple and the engine reverses, opens the coupler and then moves forward all on its own!!).
Added benefit is sound is programmable in the ZImo decoders and you can update to the latest firmware via a USB stick on your own.