What are some methods to trim or cut Lead Weights?

R

R. Wolfe

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Hello, I need to remove a portion of the lead weight inside my loco for decoder and electronic fitment. What are some of the best ways to do this? I know you can melt it with a hot enough torch but that is not an option for me. I don't have access to a mill or lathe either. I have tried a hack saw, a coarse wood saw and a hammer & chisel. So far, the best thing I found was a drill bit in my drill press. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Richard.
 
Your best bet is a saw with a lot of lubricant. Lead will gum up just about anything else. But you will need a lot of lubricant with whatever you use.

Phil S.
 
Okay, thanks Greg, I will try that for now. Phil, I thought about using my table saw but I just don't want to ruin it. I will most likely try the mill bit first as I think I may have one somewhere. I may buy a separate blade for the table saw just for cutting the lead. Thanks!
 
That all sounds very scary, a proper Milling Machine would do it but lubricant will be the thing. You can get a special cutting oil that would make the process much easier with that or a Metal Hack Saw.
 
When I was at college doing a plumbing course back in the 70s we used a number of different methods for cutting lead, for lead sheet a sharp knife and a straight edge score and tear, tin snips for awkward cuts. Lead pipe cut with a coarse set saw. In your case a saw for cutting down the grain in wood ie a rip saw. Don't bother with lubrication it will only gum up the teeth.

Shaun
 
Some sort of milling cutter, in the drill-press.
Not a lot of shank 'free' from the chuck, and slow light cuts.. The work should not get hot, and you will not need a lubricant..

I have 'notched' Stainz weights with nothing more than a junior hacksaw. - Series of vertical cuts, then hold saw at an angle. Cleaned-up with an old, coarse file.. Not pretty, but it will be hiden under the decoder! :nod::nod:
 
Just a thought - I would have thought that it's unlikely to be lead, more likely a diecast metal, albeit fairly soft.

Normally, as Phil says, a hacksaw should do it :nod::nod:
 
If it is lead, then Health and Safety, I know its a bit heavy at times (no pun intended) but working with lead, inhaling dust fumes and particles is dangerous and can lead to long terms illness!!
 
TLR said:
When I was at college doing a plumbing course back in the 70s we used a number of different methods for cutting lead, for lead sheet a sharp knife and a straight edge score and tear, tin snips for awkward cuts. Lead pipe cut with a coarse set saw. In your case a saw for cutting down the grain in wood ie a rip saw. Don't bother with lubrication it will only gum up the teeth.

Shaun
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Yep - that was the way to do it! A Stanley knife did the trick on Code3, 4, 5 & 6. The largest roll I ever handled was 8ft wide!
 
From my past life experience having to shape lead shielding on occasion, a coarse saw with a fair amount of set and lube works best for simple shaping. It is essential to avoid heat buildup and clear the chips. Otherwise things get gummed up, tools get grabbed and it can quickly become dangerous especially if power tools are being used. I had the best success using a slow running bandsaw with a coarse metal cutting blade and cutting fluid. Reiterating Greg's comment - NEVER USE A GRINDER OR CUT-OFF WHEEL ON LEAD. In any case, I'm much less concerned about health effects from Pb ingestion than physical injury. Just clean up the chips and wash your hands. But, do keep the kids away until you're done - developing brains are particularly susceptible to Pb poisoning.

Phil S.
 
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Greg Elmassian said:
I have to state to NOT use a grinder or anything that can make "dust", you do NOT want to inhale lead. Wash your hands well after handling, it can accumulate in your body.

I've had the white "bloom" on some lead weights, and been very careful when removing:

weight_corrosion.JPG


after cleaning, and a marine anti-corrosion coating:

weight_cleaned.JPG
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And to think that the white lead used to be deliberately encouraged to form outside in Tenter Fields so it could be used to make paint. I once new the owner of the White Lead Paint Co. All good things (not) - like Arsenic to make green paint. Where lead is used for complete roofing, Anti-patination oil was/is used to prevent that oxidisation
 
trammayo said:
And to think that the white lead used to be deliberately encouraged to form outside in Tenter Fields so it could be used to make paint. I once new the owner of the White Lead Paint Co. All good things (not) - like Arsenic to make green paint. Where lead is used for complete roofing, Anti-patination oil was/is used to prevent that oxidisation
Click to expand...
That is a new potion to me, just looked it up and it does exactly as it says on the Tin. Good call Mick. As I always say you do not know what you do not know.
 
trammayo said:
And to think that the white lead used to be deliberately encouraged to form outside in Tenter Fields so it could be used to make paint. I once new the owner of the White Lead Paint Co. All good things (not) - like Arsenic to make green paint. Where lead is used for complete roofing, Anti-patination oil was/is used to prevent that oxidisation
Click to expand...
If you talked to a painter / decorator who had been apprenticed (back in the day) Mastic was a type of putty that you knocked up using white lead (and other things)
 
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