Weathering advice for big Piko diesel?

Zerogee

Zerogee

Clencher's Bogleman
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I've just bought (second-hand) one of Piko's big chunky class 204 DB diesels - the one like the Harzkamel but with the standard-gauge bogies.

It's a nice loco, but it is also a hideous shade of toy-like BRIGHT red. ;)

Now, I don't normally weather my stock, especially the locos - but in the case of this one I really just want to tone down the eye-searing colour a little.... I don't want it to look heavily weathered, not that I have any problem with that but it would be very out of keeping with the rest of my collection. I just want to do a very light treatment to dull it down and make it look a bit less toy-like.

Any advice, pictures, links to tutorials or anything else useful?

Thanks in advance!

Jon.
 
Mel's your man for weathering Jon....
 
Thanks Cliff and Gizzy - yes, I was planning on having a word with Beavercreek Mike when I next see him, but thought I'd ask on here too for any online pics/ideas etc.

Jon.
 
Yes those two will help. Check with an expert first, but I have found matt aerosol varnish a way to make things more "real" simply.
 
I was about to say the same! Matt varnish will be a good start - then unless you have an airbrush you might struggle to 'tone it down a little' as washes, powders and spray cans have their place, but usually are applicable for more dirty locomotives.
 
I should say that if you have an airbrush then you can tint varnishes - if you apply a touch of white or sand colour in the varnish it has a massive effect. It's called tinting, and if you observe how things fade in real life it just tries to echo that. So if the DB red goes pink, then use a pale pink or white in the varnish (we're only talking a drop or two of paint in a good helping of varnish) - if it goes orange use a drop of yellow etc etc.
 
I'm happy to go for a little bit of dirt and dust, James, I just don't want a very heavy "realistic" weathering job.

I should be seeing Mike at the weekend, will ask him for suggestions then!

Jon.
 
Mel - I think in G-scale that an airbrush is a good tool for repainting too - and with a set for £100 from Expo tools it's a good investment for anyone who modifies and repaints, whether they intend to weather or not - however, I think I'd stick to a matt spray in a rattle can for starters on this one - that will dull the brightness - and be a good base for any further weathering on top :)
 
jameshilton said:
Mel - I think in G-scale that an airbrush is a good tool for repainting too - and with a set for £100 from Expo tools it's a good investment for anyone who modifies and repaints, whether they intend to weather or not - however, I think I'd stick to a matt spray in a rattle can for starters on this one - that will dull the brightness - and be a good base for any further weathering on top :)
Click to expand...
Or get Mike to do it. :bigsmile:
 
Hi Jon
Would be very happy to pass on any hints or even help if you need it.
Quick discussion on my return from Oxfordshire carrying goodies for you and..... for me!

Thanks for the belief in my capabilities Mel. I think a dirty old rust bucket treatment is in order........only joking Jon!! :rolf:
 
'Games Workshop' sell 'inks'. There not actual ink but thinned down paint. You can brush them in to all the joints, corners and rivet details and then wipe most of it off. If your quick you can wash it all off and start again. Comes in several colours but you probably want brows or greys.
 
stockers said:
'Games Workshop' sell 'inks'. There not actual ink but thinned down paint. You can brush them in to all the joints, corners and rivet details and then wipe most of it off. If your quick you can wash it all off and start again. Comes in several colours but you probably want brows or greys.
Click to expand...

Very familiar with GW inks, because I'm in same business as they are! I use them a lot on figures, but haven't actually tried them on something as big as a loco yet - will see what Mike's advice is, then might give them a try.

Jon.
 
Hi Jon
before progressing with the weathering in any aspect, find out if you can take out the glazing. It helps imensely as masking out lots of windows is a little tedious. If the glazing is stuck on the inside and might break if attempted to be removed then there is rubber paint-on masking fluid that is great to use in difficult areas like detail that is difficult to or cannot be removed.
 
Jon,
If you search on my post about my Kamel you will see that on one I have a title re weathering, post 4 gives my top tips.

Sorry can't do the actual link as again I am having problems copying the link on my iPad. Soetimes it works sometimes is does not! The joys of technology.
JonD
 
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