Weathering a truck with an airbrush, an idiots guide mark 2.
- Thread starter yb281
- Start date
The WGLR transfers were made for me by another top man.
I saw an article in one of the general railway modelling magazines for posters typical of those attached to many standard gauge vans. These were in 00 scale, but I thought that something similar would look good on this van, so I knocked some up on my computer. This one was copied from an image found on the net.
And this one I made myself using a desk top publishing programme. Fisons Basic Slag was a real product believe it or not.
I saw an article in one of the general railway modelling magazines for posters typical of those attached to many standard gauge vans. These were in 00 scale, but I thought that something similar would look good on this van, so I knocked some up on my computer. This one was copied from an image found on the net.
And this one I made myself using a desk top publishing programme. Fisons Basic Slag was a real product believe it or not.
On to the weathering. First dirty enamel thinners (from the bottom of the bottle that I wash my brushes in) was dribbled down the gaps between the individual planks to emphasise the planking effect on the bodywork. Then all of the ironwork was dry brushed with a rust colour - not too much, just enough to bring out some of the detail, rivets etc.
If you really get into airbrushing, you can spend a small fortune on airbrushes, compressors etc.
But to start with a simple, basic set-up like this will help you to see how you get on. These airbrush starter sets come in at around 10 to 15 quid and are more than sufficient for this job. Although the starter sets are often marketed under other names (such as Humbrol), the airbrush is actually made by Badger, one of the leading manufacturers - so you'll be able to find plenty of accesories such as spare paint jars, air leads etc.
But to start with a simple, basic set-up like this will help you to see how you get on. These airbrush starter sets come in at around 10 to 15 quid and are more than sufficient for this job. Although the starter sets are often marketed under other names (such as Humbrol), the airbrush is actually made by Badger, one of the leading manufacturers - so you'll be able to find plenty of accesories such as spare paint jars, air leads etc.
Moving on to the paint.
I've always used enamels and could never get on with acrylics when brush painting. However, I've found that these Tamiya acrylics are much easier to use with an airbrush. They tend not to require as much thinning as enamels, the matt colours ALWAYS dry matt and the airbrush can be cleaned in soapy water after use. This saves a fortune in cans of thinners.
The three colours used for this job are Khaki, Dark Grey, NATO Black (all matt).
Top tip - ten minutes before you start the job, turn the jars upside down. This helps to mix the paint (although a proper stir will also be required).
I've always used enamels and could never get on with acrylics when brush painting. However, I've found that these Tamiya acrylics are much easier to use with an airbrush. They tend not to require as much thinning as enamels, the matt colours ALWAYS dry matt and the airbrush can be cleaned in soapy water after use. This saves a fortune in cans of thinners.
The three colours used for this job are Khaki, Dark Grey, NATO Black (all matt).
Top tip - ten minutes before you start the job, turn the jars upside down. This helps to mix the paint (although a proper stir will also be required).
Doug
Live Steam, scratch building
yb281 said:Moving on to the paint.
I've always used enamels and could never get on with acrylics when brush painting. However, I've found that these Tamiya enamels are much easier to use with an airbrush. They tend not to require as much thinning as enamels, the matt colours ALWAYS dry matt and the airbrush can be cleaned in soapy water after use. This saves a fortune in cans of thinners.
The three colours used for this job are Khaki, Dark Grey, NATO Black (all matt).
Top tip - ten minutes before you start the job, turn the jars upside down. This helps to mix the paint (although a proper stir will also be required).
Shirley you mean Tamiya acrylics!
Right, on to the actual airbrushing. All the washes are just a quick pass with the airbrush. Keep it moving and remember the phrase "less is more".
Khaki wash first in this case. You'll notice that I've left the wheels unmasked. I used to mask them, but since going over to acrylics I don't bother - the paint soon wears off the "treads" without mucking up the track. Obviously, wheel masking would be essential on a locomotive requiring electrical pick up.
Chassis
Sides and ends
Roof
Khaki wash first in this case. You'll notice that I've left the wheels unmasked. I used to mask them, but since going over to acrylics I don't bother - the paint soon wears off the "treads" without mucking up the track. Obviously, wheel masking would be essential on a locomotive requiring electrical pick up.
Chassis
Sides and ends
Roof
Final wash with dark grey.
Actually, this has made everything look very flat and boring. No problem, a VERY light wash with the lightest colour will bring a bit of life back. So a quick jush with the Khaki.
One of the things that you may find with acrylics is that they're not very hard wearing. If your model is likely to be subjected to a lot of handling, you might want to give it a coat of matt varnish. I don't bother, but I know that Bruce is a big fan of the Vallejo range used by many military and aircraft modellers.
Actually, this has made everything look very flat and boring. No problem, a VERY light wash with the lightest colour will bring a bit of life back. So a quick jush with the Khaki.
One of the things that you may find with acrylics is that they're not very hard wearing. If your model is likely to be subjected to a lot of handling, you might want to give it a coat of matt varnish. I don't bother, but I know that Bruce is a big fan of the Vallejo range used by many military and aircraft modellers.
Now comes the bit that puts a lot of people off airbrushing - all the cleaning up you have to do when you've finished. Well (because we've used acrylics) it's really simple.
1] Fill a spare paint jar with warm water with a tiny drop of washing up liquid in it (ask the wife, she'll tell you where to find it
). Attach this to the airbrush and pass at least half of the water through it as if you were painting.
2] Reem out the jet with a pin (ask the wife again) to make absolutely certain there's no paint left in it.
3] Take the dip tube off the airbrush and blow any soapy water out.
4] Use your kitchen paper to dry everything off ................ and that's it. Probably took you longer to read it than it would to do it. Piece of .................................
1] Fill a spare paint jar with warm water with a tiny drop of washing up liquid in it (ask the wife, she'll tell you where to find it
). Attach this to the airbrush and pass at least half of the water through it as if you were painting.
2] Reem out the jet with a pin (ask the wife again) to make absolutely certain there's no paint left in it.
3] Take the dip tube off the airbrush and blow any soapy water out.
4] Use your kitchen paper to dry everything off ................ and that's it. Probably took you longer to read it than it would to do it. Piece of .................................
Excellent article 
Was the original paint job (before weathering) done with acrylics as well?
For those those of us just starting up this new fangled modelling lark (me) and have yet to buy any paints whatsover (me again) what colours (other than those mentioned) would you recommend to have at your disposal?
Ade
ps - loved the detail of the posters as well
Was the original paint job (before weathering) done with acrylics as well?
For those those of us just starting up this new fangled modelling lark (me) and have yet to buy any paints whatsover (me again) what colours (other than those mentioned) would you recommend to have at your disposal?
Ade
ps - loved the detail of the posters as well
Quick question Mel, looks like the jars of acrylic paint screw straight onto the airbrush, are they a standard size? And obviously if I wanted to use enamels would they have to be put in a jar, and subsequently washing out the jar with thinners? 
steven large
USA G SCALES OF 30 TO 50S THEMES.ASLO KIT BASHING
hi
i alway use acryilla paints all the times using soft brushes and fan paint brushes....i can spray it but didnt want to.
so here is my photos here,,,,
the paint is only costs me 99p each bottles...
i alway use acryilla paints all the times using soft brushes and fan paint brushes....i can spray it but didnt want to.
so here is my photos here,,,,
the paint is only costs me 99p each bottles...
adeshers said:For those those of us just starting up this new fangled modelling lark (me) and have yet to buy any paints whatsover (me again) what colours (other than those mentioned) would you recommend to have at your disposal?
Been using the Valejo acrylic paints that are ready mixed for airbrushing. If you want to really get into this they produce sets recommended weathering colours.
Ever seen this guy - he is the bee's knees at weathering - ignore the language
http://www.youtube.com/user/MonsterRailroad#p/u/7/SKI_0AwQ-eY
adeshers said:Excellent article
Was the original paint job (before weathering) done with acrylics as well?
For those those of us just starting up this new fangled modelling lark (me) and have yet to buy any paints whatsover (me again) what colours (other than those mentioned) would you recommend to have at your disposal?
Ade
ps - loved the detail of the posters as well
Cheers Ade. The original paint job on this wagon was as you buy it from Accucraft (there's a brown version too).
The only colours I find I need for weathering are 3 shades of grey (light, medium and dark), a couple of light browns (like the Khaki) and a rust shade for the dry brushing. Plus the NATO black which is an excellent weathering colour. It's more of a very dark grey than black really.
This diesel was weathered using various greys and NATO black.
As was my track cleaner.
