Was this an expensive impulsive buy that I can't use or.....

voodoopenguin

voodoopenguin

Retired
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At the recent Train Collectors Show there were many tempting offerings of all sizes however there was one that I was really taken by. It goes with nothing else that I have but I loved its looks and at the end of the show I bought it. The little bit of info with it said it could be easily regauged between 32mm and 45mm and of course it was bought untested. Got it home, popped it on the track and it shorted. Didn't take much investigation to see this was not a track powered loco however putting power to the motor terminals had the wheels turning nicely so how to power it. There is no obvious easy way to remove anything to find a battery compartment, the photo from underneath hopefully shows several very small crosshead screws which as yet I have not tried. If that is the way in it is not easy or quick. The last photo shows the two cavities at the front. In one there is a switch and in the other you might be able to see some writing. The writing has a name and that is Geoff Munday. Googling provided a little information, sadly he passed away but he appears to have been a well known person in the 16mm realm, maybe some of you lot knew him. The little info seems to suggest that he was a steamer which of course this loco isn't. Any thoughts on how I might proceed would be gratefully received.

Paul
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The final photo shows a charging socket to the left of the chimney. The switch to the right may have two, or three, positons: if two, they will be on/off and charge, if three then on/off/charge. All of which suggests that you have bought a battery-powered loco. Did it come with an RC controller?
 
Northsider said:
The final photo shows a charging socket to the left of the chimney. The switch to the right may have two, or three, positons: if two, they will be on/off and charge, if three then on/off/charge. All of which suggests that you have bought a battery-powered loco. Did it come with an RC controller?
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Seems to be an on/off two position switch.
I wonder what voltage to charge with, start low and see I guess. Of course I will be assuming there is a rechargeable inside, maybe I should start undoing all those little screws. No RC controller.

Paul
 
The switch has two wires, so is off/on..

You will need to MAKE SURE the power is switched off to your tracks, as you have discovered the wheels are not insulated from each other.

Many of the chargers are 'smart' and will adjust to the correct number of cells, and I would assume that they will be NiMH.

I would think there are probably 10(?) cells in it, so 12V nominal.

You won't be able to run it without a controller (transmitter) of some type.
I am afraid I don't know what gear Geoff used.

PhilP.
 
PhilP said:
The switch has two wires, so is off/on..

You will need to MAKE SURE the power is switched off to your tracks, as you have discovered the wheels are not insulated from each other.

Many of the chargers are 'smart' and will adjust to the correct number of cells, and I would assume that they will be NiMH.

I would think there are probably 10(?) cells in it, so 12V nominal.

You won't be able to run it without a controller (transmitter) of some type.
I am afraid I don't know what gear Geoff used.

PhilP.
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Geoff possibly only painted the loco. He used to sign all his work. Max
 
voodoopenguin said:
Seems to be an on/off two position switch.
I wonder what voltage to charge with, start low and see I guess. Of course I will be assuming there is a rechargeable inside, maybe I should start undoing all those little screws. No RC controller.

Paul
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Logic says, go for those little screws and all will be revealed. It looks reasonably well put together, so should have all the necessary bits.

Let PhilP PhilP see a picture of the ESC and he'll be able to advise further on a Tx.
 
Get inside, there could be all sorts of interesting stuff inside. A look at those could say what battery radio control (if any) is appropriate. As for battery charging you will need a Smart Charger that will do the job, but do that investigation first. Tis a well built beast that should give long service, changing the wheels to a set of insulated one side will allow it to run with your track powered locomotives, but knowing the wheel size and axle diameter will be required to get the appropriate wheels.
 
It looks well made with the sort of detail you would expect from one of the "artisan" 16 mm makers. The chassis and running gear say "quality" with those brass gears. Wires from the charge socket are disappearing into the upper body section, so a battery and perhaps other gear like ESC should be located in there. One little thing the centre buffers are upside down, chains are not going to stay on those hooks ;)Max.
 
I'm glad you bought it, as I was tempted, but resisted!
Another option could be to removed the current drive mech, and insert a playmobil or USA Trains motor block if you wish to keep it track powered.
But a battery RC loco would be ideal for quick running sessions where no track cleaning is required.

Malcolm
 
Should you decide to do that. - Obviously remove the batteries and other electronics..

You should find there is a ready market (hint, hint) for the removed components..

PhilP.
 
Paul M said:
Looks a very nice little loco. Follow the advice above and you can't go wrong! Personally I'd leave it as battery powered, if you can.
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You can always swap the radio and ESC for a manual speed control and a reversing switch, if you just want it to run round the garden?

PhilP.
 
Rhinochugger said:
It's also missing a pony truck from memory, but as they're hidden under the skirts, many modellers don't worry.
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Yes they were 0-4-2t thus a trailing truck and only 3 of them, the fourth loco was an x WW1 baldwin.
 
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