Wanted, handmade track builder in search of a challenge

[Wobbleboxer]

I recently http://www.gscalecentral.net/tm?m=136731 < Link To posted a thread about using reed switches to control the points and wiring within a new loop I am planning. Although I would still like to build this, at the moment I can't see where I'm going to get the time and so instead would just like t get some track down. This causes a problem if I go with the points design planned. So as an alternative I'm thinking about a crossing instead of a plain loop. Problem is I use Peco track and they don't make a crossing (no wars about which track is better thank you ) Are there any hand made track builders out there willing to discuss the build of a crossing? Again, I'd have a go myself, but don't have the time.

PM me to discuss.

Thanks.

 

[Westcott]

Mr. Spock http://www.gscalecentral.net/m72675 < Link To built a crossover not too long ago.

 

[bobg]

Is it not possible to use two pairs of points, tail to tail, instead of a crossover? Temporary like.

 

[MRail]

Marcway of Sheffield offer a point building service - at a price.

 

[Zerogee]

I believe that GRS (Garden railway Specialists) offer built-to-order custom track, crossings, points etc, as well? Not cheap, I'd assume, but I have heard good reports of it.

Jon.

 

[Wobbleboxer]

Mr. Spock http://www.gscalecentral.net/m72675 < Link To built a crossover not too long ago.

He did, but I didn't like to presume and approach him directly.

Is it not possible to use two pairs of points, tail to tail, instead of a crossover? Temporary like.

That was the original plan, but points need changing each time a train passes. I was looking for something 'hands free'.

Marcway of Sheffield offer a point building service - at a price.

It's the price that worries me, but may enquire. Ditto GRS.

Thanks guys

 

[MR SPOCK]

pm sent​

 

[bobg]

Is it not possible to use two pairs of points, tail to tail, instead of a crossover? Temporary like.

That was the original plan, but points need changing each time a train passes. I was looking for something 'hands free'.

They can be made to 'trail' or be sprung one way, if that suits the operation. That's how my return loop works, making the train go both ways round.

 

[Wobbleboxer]

Thanks Pete, reply sent.

 

[Wobbleboxer]

Is it not possible to use two pairs of points, tail to tail, instead of a crossover? Temporary like.

That was the original plan, but points need changing each time a train passes. I was looking for something 'hands free'.

They can be made to 'trail' or be sprung one way, if that suits the operation. That's how my return loop works, making the train go both ways round.

Are you using Peco, as I've not found a satisfactory way of springing Peco points especially when electrical switches are required for track power. If I could do this it would be a halfway house before I get round to building the full on electrical version.

 

[bobg]

Mine is all Peco, but no switching as yet as I run only steam.

 

[MR SPOCK]

Hi again ,first pic is my prototype basis,
​

I made this originally so I could have two seperate loops running, but my landlord resisted my land grabbing, so is just now used to acces the sidings for the brewery siding and dockside, one yard of track cut in a mitre box and soldered up, been outside for three years​

​

 

[Doug]

GRS do pointwork using PECO rail, although i suspect they actually get Marcway to make all their pointwork for them (they look identical!!!)

 

[tramcar trev]

Hmmmmmm welllll I I wasn't on the other side of the planet. This on the left is my second set of tramway points, 300mm rad and they work superbly. The set on the right have problems and will have to return to the per way depot for some rework..... Yet to install check rails etc and the throat needs some adjusting ( all Hail Mr Dremel and a cut off wheel).....sleepers kept to a minimum as they wont be seen....... Once I got the jist of it it's not that hard and an Xing would be easier as its all straight rail, go on have a go yourself...... They are single blade sprung with left bias as we keep to the left here...

 

[Gizzy]

I reckon a 12 deg diamond crossing or a 90 deg crossing could be made quite easily by butchering a couple of Peco ST 902 straights?

Just need to lay out a full sized drawing of your crossing and chop away....

 

[Wobbleboxer]

I reckon a 12 deg diamond crossing or a 90 deg crossing could be made quite easily by butchering a couple of Peco ST 902 straights?

Just need to lay out a full sized drawing of your crossing and chop away....

I did a 90 degree with some scraps of Peco flexi, only when i got round to planning where the track was going to go it wouldn't fit. Pete (MrSpock) is going to send me one of his plans and then I'm going to have another go at chopping.

 

[Wobbleboxer]

Chopping completed and I now have a handmade crossing. Pete (Mr Spock) sent me some point plans which I had intended to use to work out the crossing dimensions, as he had in http://www.gscalecentral.net/m72675 < Link To one of his builds, but after some replanning of the final location a wider angle became necessary. I also decided, after a practice of a short length of scrap, to bend the stock rails rather than solder them. The first picture shows the rough cut rails over the original plan and the difference in angles.

Where the shorter inner stock rails meet, the ends were filed to allow the other rail to butt up neatly.

The outer ends of the crossing would use normal sleepers so only the centre section would be soldered to PCB. I decided to keep the middle 3 sleepers as one section so it wouldn't all fall apart later when the rails were cut through to break the electric circuit. There is also a scrap of laminate flooring underneath to support the whole thing at the right height.

The main rails were all soldered to the PCB using solder paste (thanks for the tip on that one Mr Spock) and then additional shorter lengths of rail were bent to make up the centre stock rails and check rails. Again bending means less soldering, especially here where it starts to get tricky to get a soldering iron in between some of the rails. The red pen marks are where the rail will be cut and the PCB removed for electrical reasons.

Finally, with the rails and PCB cut it gets a visit from Mr Rattlecan, in a dashing shade of matt black. You can just see where all the rails near the centre have been cut through and it's only the PCB hold it together at this point. Jumper wires were soldered on underneath to create the necessary continuity. I did also test with my Porter as it has the shortest wheelbase of all my locos, one of the main factors in deciding where to cut the rails.

All in all I'm really pleased with it and can't wait to get cracking on getting it laid. Thanks to Pete for the plans, tips and help with this. Will I try a point next? Maybe.

 

[DoctorM]

..... I'd have a go myself, but don't have the time ......

Well done! An excellent result - just goes to show what you can do if you make time!

 

[stockers]

Way to go mate - nice one.

 

[MR SPOCK]

That is spot on Colin, a lot neater than I usually do as well, glad the plans helped, i like the idea of the pcb in the middle I tink I will try that myself

Pete