Using LGB 10152 split track to slow down train

playmofire

Registered
Country flag
I've got a simple auto-shuttle which I'm thinking of setting up on a small "therapuetic" layout. When it gets to the end, the train simply comes to a dead stop with no slowing down action.

I have a number of spare 10152 pieces of split track and I wondered if I could use these to cause the train to slow down before coming to a stop by bridging the gap with a diode which would reduce the track voltage. I was thinking of two 10152s appropriately spaced, each reducing the voltage by 1 volt before the loco reached the end.

Is this feasible?
 
Assuming this is analogue?
You will need pairs of inversely-wired diodes, one of each pair will conduct, depending on direction.

Worth a try for the cost of a few diodes..
 
Assuming this is analogue?
You will need pairs of inversely-wired diodes, one of each pair will conduct, depending on direction.

Worth a try for the cost of a few diodes..

My mistake, Phil. The track pieces are 10153 with only one rail split., so I guess the answer is still, "Probably yes" but with just one diode.
 
My mistake, Phil. The track pieces are 10153 with only one rail split., so I guess the answer is still, "Probably yes" but with just one diode.

Yes and no. You'll need a pair of inverse parallel diodes across each rail gap exept the extreeme ends that will only need one. It may help to think of it as one diode of the pair slowing the loco a little in one direction and the other speeding it up on return.
 
Yes and no. You'll need a pair of inverse parallel diodes across each rail gap exept the extreeme ends that will only need one. It may help to think of it as one diode of the pair slowing the loco a little in one direction and the other speeding it up on return.

As Per Neil's post, the idea is sound but i found it needed a lot of separate broken track sections to make an acceptable effect of slowing down i think i went with 4 in the end, i started to mess about with a capacitor on the last section but never finsihed gettting it to work as i lost interest.
 
i am incorporating just this idea for the station stops on my trackpower DC layout. first tests say that it works.
(a diode every 30cm/1foot)

I was thinking that distance per diode and two "diode distances" before the stop. The line is operating as a shuttle branch line, so no high speed traffic, just idling along on a summer's afternoon, as it were.
 
Stick a decoder in the loco. It will moderate acceleration and deceleration - even using analogue..
 
Most dealers will program something for you if you ask, or a friend? Since most sound cards are DCC now, perhaps it's time to get a inexpensive system, $155 here in the US will buy an NCE PowerCab... and you can make it cheaper using DCC+++ and those Aduino boards, almost free.

The locos I use don't have sound and run on 14v to 18v max.
 
Stick a decoder in the loco. It will moderate acceleration and deceleration - even using analogue..

Massoth and Massoth for LGB ( and maybe some other decoders) may be used in place of a shuttle unit on DC.
If a track polarity reversal is triggered the loco will decelerate at a programmable rate, pause for a programmed time and then accelerate at another programmable rate in the opposite direction. No diodes are needed but I tend to put one near each end to bring the train to a dead halt if the reversal trigger fails to operate.
 
Massoth and Massoth for LGB ( and maybe some other decoders) may be used in place of a shuttle unit on DC.
If a track polarity reversal is triggered the loco will decelerate at a programmable rate, pause for a programmed time and then accelerate at another programmable rate in the opposite direction. No diodes are needed but I tend to put one near each end to bring the train to a dead halt if the reversal trigger fails to operate.

Hmm, that sounds interesting.
 
Instead of using a diode, I used a 4 ohm 2 watt resistor. No direction issues and train does a smooth acceleration due to current being limited and the fast stop is now a slow stop. Been operating for over 10 years. Also I only use LGB engines as they tend to 'roll' to a stop, not slam like others with gears locking. Try to turn engine wheel by hand, LGB is easy, others are impossible. Best free rolling is the LGB mogul.
 
Back
Top Bottom