Track questions

voodoopenguin

voodoopenguin

Retired
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Good evening good people.

I said hello to this forum some time ago and mentioned that I had gathered in a few G items over the years but was waiting until we had found our next house before laying down a circuit. Well there is light at the end of the tunnel ( I do know the joke!) and we have found our next house. It's still in the process of being built but the back garden is mostly flat and a blank canvas. Probably won't move in until the end of October but I can start thinking a bit more about the proposed garden railway and so the questions are now starting.

In my gathered in assortment of track there is LGB, Piko, Aristocraft, Peco and Marklin. I envisage the layout to be simple, a vague dogbone of single track so there would be a run of double and at one end two spurs would head off into a purpose built railway shed so out and back running could be done. I know that LGB and Piko fit together OK. Aristocraft appears similar but Peco is a smaller rail. I can happily make joins between them with no fishplates and padding under the Peco but will LGB and Playmobil happily run on Peco? Then there is the Marklin, will things run OK on that or should I try to sell that in order to purchase something more suitable? Even if I don't use the Marklin track will the odd Marklin G loco run on LGB?

That's it for the moment, thanks in advance.

Paul

Norfolk Broads
 
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Most. if not all the track should fit together, I have an assortment myself. With the exception of "Peco", but you can get adapter fishplates, to fit them the other types. Not seen the Marklin track so can not comment.

One thing of additional note in connection with "Peco" is their points, more specifically the point frog "V" bit, the rails can cause shorts with loco pick up skates, and it is not unknown for that to cause the loco electronics to fry.

Edit....

Photograph showing an assortment of track, Aristo, Bachmann with new sleepers, Piko curved point, which in turn is connected to both LGB and Aristo track.

P1020191 crop.jpg

Should also add they are all connected with a variety of fishplates with rail clamps on the points and bridge to aid removal for servicing.
 
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Wot Gordon said. I concur.
 
The Marklin track is probably gauge 1 set track, something like code 200 rail I think (even smaller than Peco code 250 rail). You may find LGB flanges too deep for it, best sell that on and stick to stuff with all the same code eg the LGB/PIKO etc. code 332. Yes you can join Peco to LGB using Peco's special joiners.

Marklin G - well that is LGB these days isn't it? Let's be clear that "G scale" is not the same as "gauge 1" apart from the track being the same gauge 45mm. The modelling scales and technical standards are different.

Marklin gauge 1 locos and stock will run on LGB track but the wheel flanges are finer, which may cause jolts through point frogs and the really detailed/expensive gauge 1 locos won't like the small radius LGB curves. I have a Marklin Maxi loco (gauge 1 simplified tinplate bodied stuff), it worked well enough on my G line.
 
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Peco do Adapter Fishplates to link LGB Profile to their Track. I tend to use these for Isolating Sections. However there is a Slither of Metal Supplied with them to make them Electrically Conductive. But I would suggest Bonding them as well. Hillman made Joining Clamps also, but I believe that they do not Trade now.
JonD
 
Thanks for the responses. I've started to calculate just how much track I have and I bet I don't have enough yet but won't know for sure until I have access to my new garden. Shame that the Peco points might be a problem as I have three large radius ones. I'm sure I have too many R1 curves although as far as I recall, all my stock can manage it without problems. The knock off Chinese TCE train looks a little silly on them but it still works.

Paul

Norfolk Broads
 
Simple advice to the beginner.. don't try to mix track types. You will regret it, eventually.
Biff it all except the LGB.

OK, mechanically, a lot of the track from different sources will mate, but aesthetically you will end up with a dogs breakfast, which you will finally notice as you submit a photo of your effort, and the sleeper types stand out like the proverbial.
 
I have to say that I have no problem with the aesthetic bit once it's down on the ground in the garden. Must be my eyes or the fact I keep it to the secluded bits ;) While predominately LGB I have a bits of Aristo', Piko (a curved point) and even Tenmille too.

When mixing what I would council against is going outside of the accepted code 332 type compatibles, and even Tenmille code 332 with its different rail profile. Why ? Adaptors. These are areas where you will not be able to use a rail clamp or joining clip so you will need some other positive way of holding formations in place or suffer the resultant risk of track separations. It will also get messy as your layout evolves, especially if you end up cutting and re-cutting flexi' stuff to fit. Max.
 
Mix Track as you like, in the long run it becomes pretty well unoticeable. But do try to use Peco either side of Points if you can.
LGB to Aristo below. Massoth Clamps.
image.jpeg
LGB to Peco below. This is an unknown Rail Clamp, but could have been a Peco Adapter Fishplate if these clamps not available. Not sure if providence of the Clamp, possibly unavailable now Hillman.image.jpeg LGB and other makes R1's (or any curves) can be remodelled to Straights by pulling apart, straighten the Rail and use alternative sides to make equal lengths. Simples.

Track is expensive, makes fiscal prudence to use what you have rather than binning (or rather selling at a loss).
JonD
 
dunnyrail said:
LGB and other makes R1's (or any curves) can be remodelled to Straights by pulling apart, straighten the Rail and use alternative sides to make equal lengths. Simples.

Track is expensive, makes fiscal prudence to use what you have rather than binning (or rather selling at a loss).
JonD
Click to expand...

Now that's interesting, I was going to experiment to see how silly a slalom course would be. Looking at an LGB R1 I see that all the plastic connecting the sleepers would have to be cut.

Aesthetics of mixing? As I have always been at the toy end of model railways (60+ years) I don't think that different sleeper types would worry me but I well understand that there are those that would not like it.

Paul

Norfolk Broads
 
voodoopenguin said:
Aesthetics of mixing? As I have always been at the toy end of model railways (60+ years) I don't think that different sleeper types would worry me but I well understand that there are those that would not like it.

Paul

Norfolk Broads
Click to expand...
It really is a question of how you view your railway, and how you want it to sit in the garden. I follow the impressionist school, and like my railway to be a part of the garden, so I don't get into a lot of small detail (that could change in the depot area - yet to be built). I mix LGB brown with Aristo black and don't give a castlemain 4x.

I prefer Aristo for the their screwed fishplate joiners, the down side is that their curved track can give large sleeper gaps at the joins. I'm not a lover of the LGB fishplate and clip system, but I bought some secondhand LGB flexi recently with a large batch of hillman railclamps which are good.

As has been mentioned, even code 332 is not identical between manufacturers, and previously I had a little bit of difficulty with Accucraft rail clamps joining LGB to Aristo. I have therefore taken to drilling and tapping the LGB and using Aristo fishplates where the two different breeds meet on my current set up. I haven't got as far as switching any power on yet, so cannot comment on how successful I have been.
 
Paul, I had a surfeit of R1 curves which I straightened for use on sidings. I have a rail bender should you decide to pursue that course and wish to borrow it. Don't forget I only live about 3 miles away. I've also got some samples of different manufacturers track if you want to see the differences for yourself.
Mike.
 
voodoopenguin said:
Now that's interesting, I was going to experiment to see how silly a slalom course would be. Looking at an LGB R1 I see that all the plastic connecting the sleepers would have to be cut.
Click to expand...

a R1 slalom is the best way for derailing and/or uncoupling. you would need a straigt between two opposing curves.
but (in my eyes) the worst is a R1 directly behind a straight. it looks, like the train "jumps" to one side.

when rebending LGB R1 curves, i cut away either all connections on the inside, or all on the outside.
those cut on the outside, together with two straightened inside rails give straights exactly the length of LGB straights.
the longer outside-rails i use for less sharp curves, rebent as needed
 
Once again many thanks for the helpful responses.

Mike, I'm still at least 3 months away from moving in to the new house and I'm certain that my better half will quite rightly feel that once we are in, a garden railway might not be at the very top of the to-do list. I will certainly remember your offer but will not start straightening any track until I see what is actually needed., maybe a winter project.

Paul

Norfolk Broads
 
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