Track Paste ?
- Thread starter DRG11
- Start date
stockers
Trains, aircraft, models, walking, beer, travel
Yes - as Nick says- it keeps the moisture out so delays corrosion inside the plate. I have recently moved a lot of my track and the goo is still there and most of the rail ends are noticeably cleaner than the rest of the rail.
The screws are good too - have you found the couple they glue under one sleeper with a bit of wax to each section of track. I assume you have a little blue driver for the screws. If not I am sure I can find a spare here.
The screws are good too - have you found the couple they glue under one sleeper with a bit of wax to each section of track. I assume you have a little blue driver for the screws. If not I am sure I can find a spare here.
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
Massoth/LGB graphite paste or "Coppergrease" is great for all the exposed electrical connections, not just track joiners, on outdoor layouts. If the the track you are laying is not brand new make sure all mating surfaces are clean and bright before pasting and joining. Remember the screws as well as the joiners are conducting current so a little paste on their threads will help aid long term trouble free electrical conductivity. For even better results consider track clamps in addition. Helps stabilize track formations and avoids sections being hammered apart if nothing else. Max
Good advice from Max that I cannot add to.
JonD
Frank Gallagher
Well matured physically if not mentally
You will probably find coppergrease much cheaper than the LGB/Massoth branded product.
I use a matchstick (remember those?) to 'insert' paste into the fishplate
I use a matchstick (remember those?) to 'insert' paste into the fishplate
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
No real need with screwed fishplates. When I re-laid my track for the WWNR, I undid all of the fishplate joints including the factory made joints. What was revealed was that where the fishplate had been clamped to the track, the brass remained bright and shiny. And that was after 6-7 years of the WWSR and for some lengths, an extra couple of years of temporary circuit around my shed before the WWNR was built.
I would say, on the evidence of what I found, that it's only necessary with LGB type sliding fishplates, as they are not clamped tight to the rail.
But remember, that's only a matter of opinion - said the man with a wooden leg
Hi All,
Apologies for not getting back sooner been working some silly shifts, that said ...
All the track will be laid outside and I will look into putting something on the joiners, many thanks to all,
Thankyou to "Stockers" , yes Ive found the screws underneath and have the blue screwdriver that was supplied so need to start looking,
Matchsticks !!! now we are going back but yes ive got some of those as well, thankyou for the ideas.
Apologies for not getting back sooner been working some silly shifts, that said ...
All the track will be laid outside and I will look into putting something on the joiners, many thanks to all,
Thankyou to "Stockers" , yes Ive found the screws underneath and have the blue screwdriver that was supplied so need to start looking,
Matchsticks !!! now we are going back but yes ive got some of those as well, thankyou for the ideas.
adverse camber
Registered
cocktail sticks work great too. I keep a box in my tool box for this and applying grease to bearings
stevedenver
Registered
Yes. Conductive paste is great.
I used lgb, and then, auto graphite grease. They were equally good.
Heres a tip. The mechanical fit must be clean and tight, like new track.
I suggest that the inside of plates be very clean, using liquid flux and a cotton swab and thorough rinse if old and oxidized. Metal polish will do too, but is more work.
Then a very snug fit too. Gently crimp those fishplates provided theyre not too brittle. I find the aristo plates to be......flimsy, after a year or two.p
The grease, in my years pre track clamps, kept all the micro crud out of the joiners. This is the super fine silt like stuff from wind, water, that finds its way into the fish plates. The grease traps it, and block damp and water too.
You didnt ask, but i will offer this. I used conventional plates for fifteen years, in dry colorado. Rarely had electrical gaps but for snow and rain.
I bit the bullet and got track clamps, and, it is better. I have no electrical issues, other than needing to clean the rail tops as needed. I was resistant due to cost, but the reliabilty is lovely. Makes running headache free. Just a thought.
Best.
I used lgb, and then, auto graphite grease. They were equally good.
Heres a tip. The mechanical fit must be clean and tight, like new track.
I suggest that the inside of plates be very clean, using liquid flux and a cotton swab and thorough rinse if old and oxidized. Metal polish will do too, but is more work.
Then a very snug fit too. Gently crimp those fishplates provided theyre not too brittle. I find the aristo plates to be......flimsy, after a year or two.p
The grease, in my years pre track clamps, kept all the micro crud out of the joiners. This is the super fine silt like stuff from wind, water, that finds its way into the fish plates. The grease traps it, and block damp and water too.
You didnt ask, but i will offer this. I used conventional plates for fifteen years, in dry colorado. Rarely had electrical gaps but for snow and rain.
I bit the bullet and got track clamps, and, it is better. I have no electrical issues, other than needing to clean the rail tops as needed. I was resistant due to cost, but the reliabilty is lovely. Makes running headache free. Just a thought.
Best.
meiningen8
Registered
I have used LGB graphite grease and Hillman Rail Clamps, tracks been down 20yrs now only maintainance has been to clean the railhead on occasion and replace a couple of broken points.