Track laying, the pitfalls, please

[Old Tom]

OK, so the usual Newbie (like me) asks the perennial question 'What's the best way to lay track?' which invariably gets 17,000 different answers.

So my question is... What should I look at not doing.... or perhaps what should I be made aware of as a possible problem before I start?

I've got my own thoughts as to how to lay the track on the soil/surface in my garden but it's all based on my OO and Z layout building experience which is probably totally useless.

I'm really hoping that there are people out there who have 'been there, done that, got the T-shirt' who can give some advice as to what can go wrong so that I can avoid the pitfalls....

Not asking much, am I?

 

[Rhinochugger]

The truth is, Tom, that there's 101 ways of killing a cat

A lot of people reckon that it's good to let track float on the ballast, and perhaps only fix it permanently every 10 - 12 feet or so. I use a timber peg through the ballast, and screw the track to the peg.

I use Aristocraft track, which has screwed fishplates.

If your laying on ballast in shallow trenches, a bit of geotextile mebrane to line the trench will help keep weeds at bay - that is unless you don't want the bay trees either

What to use for ballast is another debate - I tend to go large, so that the stones don't get sucked up the hoover when I'm leaf clearing - and we get lots of 'em.

The other debate is minimum radius for bends - again, go large my friend

 

[nico]

I used 6mm granite in a trench

 

[Old Tom]

Cheers mate. There's 2 things that I would have not thought about: membrane under the track and how to clear leaves off the line.

I'm loving this forum!

 

[nico]

Cheers mate. There's 2 things that I would have not thought about: membrane under the track and how to clear leaves off the line.

I'm loving this forum!

never used membrane myself,and if your building a bridge make it wide enough (dont ask)

 

[stockers]

Depending on the hight above (or below) ground level I have used different methods. At ground level I used Celcom blocks.

As the ground dropped away I used a bit of 6 inch square gate post that I had laying around.

and I use decking boards as well.

Basically, use whatever fits the position.

 

[flyingsignalman]

On my first line I used bricks laid lengthways; on the second I used the gravel in a membrane lined trench method but in the station area I used 16" paving flags (as I had them available) to ensure the tracks were level with one another.

 

[garrymartin]

My main thought on the subject is do not rush to get the job or section of track done, whatever method of construction you use. I ended up with an unplanned gradient of around 1 in 30 as a result of trying to lay a section before bad weather was due. I can live with it but I wish it wasn't there.It also had a knock on effect with the corresponding "down hill" section.
I used concrete in a trench for the ground level section , a type of fixed dry stone walling for the raised areas, on concrete foundations ( done for me by a mate , who is a farmer & so an expert in the subject) with a breeze block section which was going to be replaced by a viaduct , but never has been as yet. All in all hard work !

 

[Rhinochugger]

My missus had a good idea - she said real trains run on sleepers