Track bonding

[adverse camber]

Thought I'd update on how we're using this method. We're screwing every 3 lengths of PECO flex together and then leaving a regular unscrewed fishplate. We then have (depending on ease of access to solder) either bonded the 4 length or have jumper wires feeding. to connect the wire to the screw we're using ring crimps which are crimped and then soldered. the PECO accounts for around two thirds of our track the rest of PIKO which we use clamps on and jumper wires.

I have to say I consider myself to be capable with a soldering iron and have never had a problem soldering bonding wires into code 250 or code 332 (I only use a 100w iron... though it does have a thick neck and tip) however using the screws is very quick and with a new drill bit even getting through the nickle silver PECO is fairly easy. Drilling at an angle as suggested by Neil seems the way to go too!

 

[adverse camber]

I think the whole track fixing and expansion thing is very overblown.
On my first setup 20+ years ago everything was fixed down hard. My next it was mostly fixed (screws though the sleepers to the underlying breeze blocks or ply on the raised sections. After a few years it tended to work loose and I left it and it was not a problem. I also used expansion rail clamps but they never seemed to be an expansion problem even on the hottest days and removing the clamps made no difference
My most recent layout (about 300 meters of track),has some track on raised ply bases, some on old railway sleepers which form the edges of raised beds and some on the ground ballasted with grano (which I buy by the ton now on my 4th or 5th ton) and top up every year (not as bad as it sounds). All the track is floating free and joined with rail clamps (and the odd aristo screw). It moves fractionally in hot weather just like the real thing but there is no expansion problem even on strait sections more than 15m long.

Outdoors I think floating track is fine as long as it is well fixed together (clamps and possibly screws) and maintained. The ballasted areas don't move at all as it locks up just like the real thing but is quite easy to move if required.