The layout has begun

JimmyB said:
I have just tried my gradients, and none were steeper than 4.7 degrees, averaging around 3 degrees, which seems odd as mine are 1:20 - 1:30??
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Hm must be Europen Degrees rather than US ones, if I remember a lot of chat recently are they different! Or am I getting confused with Percent for grades again?
 
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JimmyB said:
I have just tried my gradients, and none were steeper than 4.7 degrees, averaging around 3 degrees, which seems odd as mine are 1:20 - 1:30??
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Wheee... here we go again... :D

4.7 degrees is 8.2%... STEEP... 1:20 is 5:100 or 5%.... maybe part of the measuring process is not as accurate as you think?

https://rechneronline.de/winkel/percent.php

Greg
 
Rhinochugger said:
But you've also taken out the insulation - you're not going over to the dark side are you, Jimmy ? :whew::whew:
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Jon split jaw insulated clamps, and they seem to work!!
 
JimmyB said:
I need to look at the Massoth ones though not sure they are as good
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they are different:

DSC01688.JPG

The nuts pull-in to the plastic base.. Easier if you solder wires before bolting up to the track, but do any outside work on a tray of some sort. - Very easy to lose bits.
 
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Might be different size-settings on the new CDN??
I will try to replace the picture a little later..

Well, I have deleted the file (831K) and reloaded it, and it is still not showing..
I have done nothing different to posting other pictures.. :(
 
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PhilP said:
Might be different size-settings on the new CDN??
I will try to replace the picture a little later..

Well, I have deleted the file (831K) and reloaded it, and it is still not showing..
I have done nothing different to posting other pictures.. :(
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Oh er wonder what is wrong, must try a pic in the 'wot av u been doing today'.

EDIT, my test image only shows "image" in a box so looks like we do have some more issues. Hope the upgrade tomorrow sorts it.
 
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I can see the photos, and the clamps are very similar in design to the all brass clamp, and I would think cheaper than the split jaw. Clamps are clamps and I am sure I will allow myself to mix and match clamp makes on my railway.
 
JimmyB said:
Many thanks for your comments, thermolites for my incline is the way to go.
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I love the look of your trackwork so far. Very impressive. I am thinking of laying track on blocks buried in the ground for the ground level sections of the line - are the Thermolite blocks available at Wickes or B&Q or do they have to be bought from a builders' merchant? Thanks.
 
DaveG said:
I love the look of your trackwork so far. Very impressive. I am thinking of laying track on blocks buried in the ground for the ground level sections of the line - are the Thermolite blocks available at Wickes or B&Q or do they have to be bought from a builders' merchant? Thanks.
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At the risk of butting in, I can confirm that thermolites are available from b&q and Wickes, indeed any mainstream DIY outlet should stock them. I am currently using them for the very purpose you are proposing :)
 
Clamps are very much a "I prefer xxx" whatever you have been used to. I started with Hillman have the odd split jaw or two lurking somewhere. But if I were starting anew I would always go for Massoth as being a Top Screw fit are so much easier to use. Also I feel that they are just a little less obtrusive than the others. But as I said at the start that is my preference.
 
dunnyrail said:
Clamps are very much a "I prefer xxx" whatever you have been used to. I started with Hillman have the odd split jaw or two lurking somewhere. But if I were starting anew I would always go for Massoth as being a Top Screw fit are so much easier to use. Also I feel that they are just a little less obtrusive than the others. But as I said at the start that is my preference.
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Massoth are definitely easier to fit, split jaw can be rather fiddly.
 
Well last weekend saw initially fit clamps to my last point, then it was time to tackle the gradient.
First off make myself a simple jig:
IMG_0246.JPG

IMG_0246.JPG

  • Media owner JimmyB
  • Date added
Gradient marker

Two block half inch difference in height, and 12 1/2" apart (at the corners that touch) gives me 1:25, with the bubble touching one line (in the sight glass) it goes to 1:30, and the other line 1:20. The level was bought some time ago (new) from a long gone well know DIY store.

Next it was time to dis mantle the gradient already laid and accurately re-lay it, along with temporary fitting to the bridge, as you will see I used my LGB for this:


Next day saw permanent fitting of the rest of the gradient up to the bridge, and used my bachman for this, a little disappointed, no traction tyres, and not as good adhesion:


These test runs made my mind up about coupling types across my (very small) fleet.
 
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