- 2 Oct 2019
When I laid out my garden line some 20 years ago, I used Tenmille G-Scale ** track and points. As a sizeable order (100 yards plus 6 points), I went to the factory to pick it up. Most of my line continues to be Tenmille.is the end result any good
I agree that Hillman's 332-01TM track clamps are "difficult to find" (maybe even impossible!). If anyone has any, I'd like to buy them (or swap for clamps that fit LGB rail).If using track clamps you will require special "Hillman" type clamps that will only conect Tenmille to Tenmille code 332, difficult to find now - the rail cross sections and the Tenmillle's flathead base is narrower than LGB's. There are no clamps that will connect Tenmille to LGB on a mix and match basis.
To allay my curiosity, does the length of wire go on the inside, or the outside of the rail? - I assume the outside, as the inner faces must match-up?But, as I wrote above, you can successfully clamp Tenmille rail to LGB rail (or even Tenmille rail to Tenmille rail) using standard Hillman-type clamps for LGB rail . . . by inserting a thickish copper wire against the foot of the Tenmille rail before you tighten it. This method has been reliable for me over (so far) a two-year period.
Thanks for your input, as you're no doubt aware I'm still close to the bottom of my learning curve but this forum is full of great advice.I have a mix of LGB, Tenmille, Aristo, Trainline and Piko track. At first I faffed around with LGB to Tenmille adaptors, but eventually found that Tenmille track would happily fit into LGB fishplates. At that time, I was using track power and so bonded all rail joints with soldered jumper leads, regardless of which track was mated with which.
I've not tried Tenmille pointwork, so cannot comment, but I certainly would have no qualms about buying more Tenmille Flexi track if I was going to extend my railway.
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Good suggestion, problem is that the wire tends to tarnish so after time they become tricky for rejoining and having good connectivity without some cleaning up of the wire joints. Not easy with Multi Strand Cable.Instead of bonding each track directly, how about soldering fly leads to each track and usi some discrete connectors to join them, makes it a lot easier to change your layout, and you can do the soldering on the bench rather than on your hands and knees
Actually thinking further on this, if the wire is pre soldered or tinned if you like with as much into the wire covering as possible tinned the corrosion issue is resolved and as Max has shown choc boxes will work. Sadly though many of the cheep Chinese ones produced these days do tend to rust either with the screw or the screw holes or both.I use fly leads bonded to the rails to fit simple manual track isolator switches ( x 3) and as a "backstop" where I have a lift out bridge with the rails sitting in Hillman bridge clamps. There I use the mini "choc block" pin connectors bonded to the rails. My line's power leads though are attached via clamps.
All these have been fitted fairly late in my layouts evolution and are in what might be considered "fixed" locations. But as Jon says, while providing an extra path for the current it's also another place for corrosion to occur and create extra complications for the future. I try and follow the KISS principle. Max
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Track isolator switch
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