Right, I opened this on the coffee shop etc but am transferring here, being a more correct place. Power loss complete layout. After days of checking problem has been traced back almost cetrainly to the TE receiver. Applying power from the receiver direct to the loco the loco, any loco, will jerk into life momentarily. Clicking noise from Receiver. Code signal light goes out. Can be reset, I assume this is just a circuit breaker, but when restarting same thing happens. I notice that if some time has elapsed before attempting to power loco, the wheels will turn through about two or three times, but if an attempt is made to restart again quite quickly, the motion only jerks slightly then stops. This to me sounds like something overheating, quickly
TE problem
- Thread starter Glengrant
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The only thing I know of that is likely to make a clicking noise is the relay that reverses the polarity of the output.
To check this I suggest you power up with nothing connected to the output and press the reversing buttons a few times an se it it's the same noise.
A weakness, in my opinion, of the train engineer it the on/off switch on the input side. It looks as if it's only good enough for around one amp, I've known a few fail. I never use my switch, leaving it always in the on position and switching off at the mains. I fixed a few failed ones by soldering across the switch connections on the circuit board.
I also recommend fitting a fan in all cases, even if you only run small loads as in the case of a fault such as a derailment the unit can get warmer than intended without a fan.
Edit, I've just read your post in the coffee room. I note you have a second T.E. and use a Gaugemaster power supply. What happens when you substitute the other T.E. using the same Gaugemaster power supply?
To check this I suggest you power up with nothing connected to the output and press the reversing buttons a few times an se it it's the same noise.
A weakness, in my opinion, of the train engineer it the on/off switch on the input side. It looks as if it's only good enough for around one amp, I've known a few fail. I never use my switch, leaving it always in the on position and switching off at the mains. I fixed a few failed ones by soldering across the switch connections on the circuit board.
I also recommend fitting a fan in all cases, even if you only run small loads as in the case of a fault such as a derailment the unit can get warmer than intended without a fan.
Edit, I've just read your post in the coffee room. I note you have a second T.E. and use a Gaugemaster power supply. What happens when you substitute the other T.E. using the same Gaugemaster power supply?
OK Neil thanks for that prompt input. I do the same as you, leave the on/off always at on and use the mains. However, I have just been out back again and have come to the alarming discovery that my second, older TE is doing the same thing. I am now going to look very carefully at the possibility of a track or wire short circuit somewhere. This is getting serious
Ah, I wonder, if I run a train from one circuit to another and the polarities of the two sections are accidentally reversed my T.E. makes a rapid clicking noise from the relay as the train stalls as it bridges the gap between the reversed circuits.
Could you have a short between the two T.E.s?
Could you have a short between the two T.E.s?
I am in fact excluding the track from my tests at the moment, putting the current from the receiver direct to the loco, it still stalls immediately. I am concerned that I may have messed up the TE settings, which quite frankly I do not understand, but I tried my second TE, same thing happens. So what is left that is common? The Gaugemaster M12 power pack. Now I know some of you experienced guys do not hold these in very high esteem, so it could be that. However, there is no cutting out of anything as far as indications are concerned, either on the receivers or the M12. I may have in my box of tricks another transformer/rectifier. I have temporarily tested the indoor layout controller, also Gaugemaster, it's OK, so when the kiddies come this weekend they will see trains running, I have checked that.
I know even less about TE than I do about MTS which makes it a minus score but have you tried a PM to Chas? I would have suggested Mike too but as you will be aware he is offline at present.
Glengrant said:
Cyril, do you have a multimeter? Can you measure the output of the Gaugemaster unit with no load (i.e. the TE) connected?
You will need to find out if the Gaugemaster PSU is either AC or DC and set the meter accordingly.
Also, (assuming you own or can beg, steal or borrow a multi-meter) use the OHMS setting and check across the rails for a short circuit....
Here are a few suggestions:-
1. Ensure that you have polarity correct from your transformer to receiver.
2. Have you tried it with different locos ? seems unlikley that both receivers would develop same fault.
3. Might be worth investing/borrowing a multimeter to check output to track from TE receiver.
4. Fit an inline fuse between receiver and track this will blow if there is a track short I use 5amp.
If you are stuck on linking let me know.
1. Ensure that you have polarity correct from your transformer to receiver.
2. Have you tried it with different locos ? seems unlikley that both receivers would develop same fault.
3. Might be worth investing/borrowing a multimeter to check output to track from TE receiver.
4. Fit an inline fuse between receiver and track this will blow if there is a track short I use 5amp.
If you are stuck on linking let me know.
Right here'sthe update on this thorny problem, and we are no nearer to a solution. Two receivers, two handsets, one power supply. First of all there are no track problems, train running is OK using an old fashioned rheostat. Power from the transformer/rectifier direct to loco works OK. Voltage measured at the input to the receiver is about 15V. Voltmeter reading when power is sent from receiver direct to track is 15V, but when you put a loco on to the track voltage drops to zero. Any loco, anyway loco works when power applied directly to the wheels. I don't find the Aristo setting up leaflet very comprehensive, when I press the code signal the green code light comes on, but it does not flash, on either receiver, and I think it should. The annoying thing is that this happens with either receiver. This is now costing me a lot of coffee because Ed, my engineer, drinks huge amounts of it. Are there any ideas out there?
New Haven Neil
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- 24 Oct 2009
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I just can't beleive they both went down with the same fault at the same time.....there must be something we're missing somewhere!
You haven't just bought a new cordless phone or anything like that have you? we used to have 3 TE's on our exhibition layout, and one was a bugger for getting interference from other things...just one of them though! We re-set it to a different frequency - or at least my electrical guru friend did! I can;t remeber much about them, it was 8 years ago nearly, sorry.
I'm sure it must be something to do with linking the rx and tx.
You haven't just bought a new cordless phone or anything like that have you? we used to have 3 TE's on our exhibition layout, and one was a bugger for getting interference from other things...just one of them though! We re-set it to a different frequency - or at least my electrical guru friend did! I can;t remeber much about them, it was 8 years ago nearly, sorry.
I'm sure it must be something to do with linking the rx and tx.
I'd be inclined to agree with Neil Cyril, that it looks like a linking problem. I'd be inclined to turn everything off, take the batteries out for a day or two and start again in terms of setting up new links and channels as if you were starting from scratch again.
I do remember that the instructions aren't the best in the world, but I seem to remember someone posting a link to a pdf file that was a little more comprehensive in the days of GSM? I'm afraid I didn't save the link.
I do remember that the instructions aren't the best in the world, but I seem to remember someone posting a link to a pdf file that was a little more comprehensive in the days of GSM? I'm afraid I didn't save the link.
I seem to remember several years ago when I reorganised my shed I had problems with my TE. The fix was to put a bigger space between the transformers & the receivers. Since then no problems.
The other thing to remember with train engineers is they don't like un-smoothed DC (rectified AC) & I was recomended to fit a big capacitor across the DC input.
The other thing to remember with train engineers is they don't like un-smoothed DC (rectified AC) & I was recomended to fit a big capacitor across the DC input.
Thanks, every little bit of input helps. Yes I do remember that very comprehensive pdf that we had in the old GSM. Like you I thought it would always be there, but it vanished. Wonder who it was who posted it?
Cyril, how do you know which Transmitter is used with which Receiver?
Do they have different frequencies. I only have one TE so I'm interested in how it's done.
As the others have said, seems like you have a linking problem. Try again with fresh batteries if possible....
Do they have different frequencies. I only have one TE so I'm interested in how it's done.
As the others have said, seems like you have a linking problem. Try again with fresh batteries if possible....
Might be worth a look at george Schreyer's site.
http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips.html
Also the Aristo site has a bit more info in its technical support section.
As the power supply is the only constant, I would suggest trying another one. Understand that the TE sucks up some voltage in operation, and maybe your fifteen is a bit marginal. I have been using (sometimes abusing)several older models for at least five years with very little trouble.
http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips.html
Also the Aristo site has a bit more info in its technical support section.
As the power supply is the only constant, I would suggest trying another one. Understand that the TE sucks up some voltage in operation, and maybe your fifteen is a bit marginal. I have been using (sometimes abusing)several older models for at least five years with very little trouble.
Gizzy said:
With the modern TE you can control 10 receivers on each frequency.
You set all the transmitters to the same frequency & use 1 transmitter to control all the receivers.
The advantage with this system is that when you mislay the transmitter you are using you get another (until you run out & then have to find them).
This doesn't seem an important reason until you get old & doddery.
Here's the link to the Aristocraft instruction manual webpage if it's of use;
http://www.aristocraft.com/techinfo/instruction manuals/index.html
http://www.aristocraft.com/techinfo/instruction manuals/index.html
dutchelm said:
My TE has the 10 channels too. I had the problem once where I'd accidently changed the channel, and of course my TE didn't work due to not being linked to that channel.
Not sure which version of TE Cyril has? If he is still stuck tomorrow, I'll PM him with my telephone number again and we will try to talk it through. Always happy to help a fellow ex Forces veteran....
I think it may be a linking problem too, (may be inadvertently now on a different channel which is quite easy to do by mistake) . And also as mention plenty of room between the power source and the receiver.