Surveying tips

CoggesRailway

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I am going to lose a big chunk out of my railway due to a house extension.

I have decided to use this as an opportuinty to build a more permanent line with gentle/no gradients and sweeping bends- it will involve a section inlayed into a concrete garage floor.

so the concete floor will be the level for the rest of the loop- how can i accurately work out the levels for the rest of the garden, ideally without expensive kit?

Thanks, Ian
 
a long spirit level - or tape a short one to a long piece of (straight) wood
 
Ian, all the kit I had was a simple 600mm spirit level, a long straight edge and a brick-layers line. Technically a spirit level is only good for setting things level but with a modicum of enginuity it will give you grades as well.

The wedge in the photo is graduated along it's length to give basic grades of 1:200, 1:100, 1:80 1:60,etc., the inbetweens can be judged close enough. The angle of the wedge is uninportant except that the longer and shallower it is the more accurate it can be. The calcs are easy enough. a lift of 10mm on a 600mm level is 1:60, the rest by further subdivision.

f26f2bb3eec74e079f8ff97fb7457a0f.jpg
 
An additional pic of the wedge.

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Don't feel silly, if you don't feel enlightened, someone else will. Questions must be asked!:thumbup:
 
Another way i read somewhere is to fit two, two litre pop bottles to a length of hose pipe and fill with water and some food colouring to aid visability then the water will level out so you can get a level over long distance for very little expense as i sure the hose will be around the garden and the bottles can be sourced from some where. The best way would be some clear hose but that cost money unless you happen to have a length...

Hope it helps....
 
 With regard to the spirit level method, a few suggestions :
1) When Stockers says [straight] he means it - dead straight - you (well me actually) can introduce some odd gradients by taking your levels on even a slightly bowed batten.
2) In view of (1) consider more measurements closer together - trouble is, this can introduce error as well, so...
3) If the track is continuous then check in both directions from a known start point, all the way round, then strike a third set of levels across the veggie patch as a final check.
 
Personnally, for a long straight-edge I happened upon a length of ali extruded "I" section. Absolutely ideal as lightweight and rigid. It is a good idea to turn your level end for end each time you move up to eliminate any possible error.
 
Another way i read somewhere is to fit two, two litre pop bottles to a length of hose pipe and fill with water and some food colouring to aid visability then the water will level out so you can get a level over long distance for very little expense as i sure the hose will be around the garden and the bottles can be sourced from some where. The best way would be some clear hose but that cost money unless you happen to have a length...

Hope it helps....

Should do the trick - it's what the Romans used.

Cue Python:- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vbSRaXH3NM David
 
bobg said:
It is a good idea to turn your level end for end each time you move up to eliminate any possible error.

Your dead right there. This is always a good way to check the accuracy of a spirit level. The results either way should be 'exactly' the same - they often are not.
 
stockers said:
bobg said:
It is a good idea to turn your level end for end each time you move up to eliminate any possible error.

Your dead right there. This is always a good way to check the accuracy of a spirit level. The results either way should be 'exactly' the same - they often are not.

Oh hum, now there's food for thought
 
and of course you need to set pegs to work to and from!

Mick
 
i have a lazer level. but as you say no good in the day really- not if there is sun. I thought about doing it in the dark. but i think the neighbours already think i am a bit mad. :)
 
CoggesRailway said:
i have a lazer level. but as you say no good in the day really- not if there is sun. I thought about doing it in the dark. but i think the neighbours already think i am a bit mad. :)

I just staple a piece of card on to the top of a 2x2 peg, acts like an umbrella
it put's the dot in the shade so you can see it quite clearly.
 
Rob s said:
CoggesRailway said:
i have a lazer level. but as you say no good in the day really- not if there is sun. I thought about doing it in the dark. but i think the neighbours already think i am a bit mad. :)

I just staple a piece of card on to the top of a 2x2 peg, acts like an umbrella
it put's the dot in the shade so you can see it quite clearly.


I've had this pic for a while this would seem an appropriate place for it!!
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My water level is my best friend when doing layout. I am a retired carpenter. In the years when I was working in the trade, I often pulled out my water level to do all types of layout, whether an interior renovation or an addition to a structure. Surprising how many of my fellow tradesmen thought I was nuts. Yet when challanged about it's accuracy, the water level was as accurate as any builders level, transit or laser level. I must admit that a few years ago I purchased a laser level, PLS3, Pacific Laser Systems. It saves quite abit of time for any type of leveling and plumbing up a point to the overhead.
 
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