Suitable wood for track laying

[davecar]

I built my first g scale railway in May last year. For various reasons I decided to put the track on wood about 9 inches or so above the ground. My layout is an oval and is about 22metres long and I have used a fair number of R1 curves at either end as the track goes around various trees and water features. For the straight track, which is a run of about 18 metres long I have used 5inch by 1 inch treated timber and I also treated the timber with a couple of coats of fence preservative.

For the curves I used external plywood and likewise a couple of coats of preservative. I know last winter was very severe but most of the plywood used on these curves is spliting and warping. The timber used for the straight track is fine.

At some stage I am going to have to replace the curved timber, which is quite a task and I was wondering if any members can suggest any suitable timber for this task.

Kind regards,

Dave

 

[Steve]

I am sorry Dave and i am sure others will disagree but most wood rots as i and many others have found.

I am looking at replacing all of the log roll on my line as well as the decking board.

 

[kachamp]

Hi Dave
It looks as if this may become a general problem, I know I suffered from rot when I had the track on wood, it is currently laid directly on to gravel but my poor old back is dictating that I should raise it.
Have a look at this stuff, http://www.recycledplasticlumber.co.uk/ , there is actually a picture of some Gscale track on a ladder frame composed of this stuff. As finances allow I am looking to purchase some and see what I can do.

Ken

 

[stockers]

the 5 x 1 inch will last you a good few years, but as stated above, not for ever.
You can use short pieces of board cut at an angle to form the curve and then laminate a second layer over the top but stagger the joints.
This is a rough example I did 4 years ago and still in fine condition.

 

[MR SPOCK]

I have given up with wood and use metal now or plastic,​

​

fast cheap and will out last me !!!​

​

I will cover it with felt for visual effect later on, and the older sections that are two years old will be rebuilt with the same stuff,

​

 

[nicebutdim]

This summer has been particularly taxing on wood, being so damp and then a hot day here and there, causing warping and such. I'm phasing wood out on my line as I can afford to. I will never lay track on it ever again, opting now to use stone and bricks. For my station area I'm using paving slabs and using this company http://www.kedel.co.uk/ for my plat...ll never need replacing it's a one off thing.

 

[nicebutdim]

Pete (Mr Spock), where did you get your metal conduit from, and how expensive is it please?

 

[Rhinochugger]

If using plywood, only marine ply will do and that needs treating.

Anything else will blow.

 

[MR SPOCK]

I go to CEF local branch, I get a discount but they are around £9 for a three metre length of six inch wide, double return edge, I worked out it was £17 plus to do the same length in wood by the time I had sawed it and braced it and covered it in felt then there was extra cost in supporting it,plus I can add to it easy well I think,

Pete (Mr Spock), where did you get your metal conduit from, and how expensive is it please?

​

 

[Tony]

If you do decide to use wood and i have very sucessfully well treated with celosle type stuff
try this on you corners
1 take a straight peice of wood and lay curve track on top and mark 1 or two inches from inside bend
2 remove track and cut along line
3 the cresent shape you remove gets added to the outer edge and hey presto you have a bent piece of straight wood the same shape as your bend

Tony

 

[Gizzy]

I have given up with wood and use metal now or plastic,​

​

fast cheap and will out last me !!!​

​

I will cover it with felt for visual effect later on, and the older sections that are two years old will be rebuilt with the same stuff,
​

I would have used this elecrical tray the other way up, so that the lip could contain some gravel ballast....

 

[nicebutdim]

I have given up with wood and use metal now or plastic,​

​

fast cheap and will out last me !!!​

​

I will cover it with felt for visual effect later on, and the older sections that are two years old will be rebuilt with the same stuff,
​

I would have used this elecrical tray the other way up, so that the lip could contain some gravel ballast....

Exactly what I intend to do

 

[MR SPOCK]

not yet got to trying that yet, as all the sections I have used are a metre off the ground, but I have a section that is really in need of replacing soon, tis stuff is available in sections up to two foot wide so gives a good scope for use, ​

I have given up with wood and use metal now or plastic,​

​

fast cheap and will out last me !!!​

​

I will cover it with felt for visual effect later on, and the older sections that are two years old will be rebuilt with the same stuff,
​

I would have used this elecrical tray the other way up, so that the lip could contain some gravel ballast....

 

[Railfan]

Mr. Spock, you have some beautiful stone walls in your garden. And I love your metal track support. I'll have to stop by the local box store this week and see if we have something similar here in the Colonies. Thanks for the idea.

 

[steve parberry]

I built my line five years ago using wooden poles to raise it from the ground and the first ones are starting to rot:thumbdown: If i was to start again then i would use a more stable material i.e. bricks or blocks etc... I am just about to look into plastics as well
I am also thinking about replacing the wood over te next few years

 

[trammayo]

All this talk of rotting wood has got me worried. I seriously intended to extend my line using posts and decking boards (the original is all concrete based). Now I'm having second thoughts. Pete's use of cable trays is a clever idea. I can't really use concrete on the extension as it will be on the side of a stream (unless I use piles). Back to the drawing board!

 

[Tim Brien]

My railroad is based on timber supports, elevated 24 inches above ground. Curves are laid on marine ply (two layers 19mm thick each, glued and screwed together in a staggered 'brick laying' pattern) edged with 8mm clear cedar each side. Straight sections are laid on either kiln dried pressure treated pine or a clear cedar 'ladder' section support. All timber is treated with a quality preservative.

Suprisingly, the killer for marine ply is actually fresh water. Do not assume that because it is waterproof or marine quality that it does not need both a preservative and a finishing paint coat, such as cheap fence stain.

 

[Tony]

I seems the posts are the problem Wood will rot quicker if submerged in water (sorry to state the obvious) treated wood above ground will last a life time,
So if you must have a raised track bed how about planting plastic pipe, (Drainpie, Waste pipe etc) and maybe filling with a cement mix if you wanted you can then fix decking boards to the top by finding a square piece of wood that is a tight fit in the end maybe shave or round off the corners so the wood blocks the top end and the decking can screw into
Plastic waste pipe is very strong and quite differcult to bend, Drain down pipe more so. if filled with cement mix would be indistructable

Tony

 

[Don Gilham]

Well.........

I'm using 1" marine ply with 3 coats of "cuprinol" then bitumen paint, on top of which is layed roofing felt. Supported by 3" x 3" "fence mate" metposts and - of course - 3" x 3" treated fence posts.

I'll let you know how what happens

 

[davecar]

Many thanks for all the helpful messages - as ever very much appreciated. I have considered all the replies but we all have limitations in terms of the layout of the garden (and the extent in which we are "allowed" to "take over" parts of the garden for our hobby - other interested parties! ie the missus!) and also limitations in terms of cost and time.
I have decided to use marine ply and give the wood numerous coats of good quality fence paint. If I get a few years out of it I will be very happy.

I am sure that all the helpful replies here have been useful to the G Scale community as a whole. Thanks again.

Kind regards,

Dave