Starting Inclines

[DRG11]

Hello to you all out there...
This may be a silly question but how did you start your inclines ???? thats those of you that have them !
Did you just use the joints ? or bend the track (this seems a bit hard) ?
thankyou for any help you can give me

 

[vsmith]

On my old layout it went from 0 to 4% grade, to ease the gradient I tried 2 methods, 1st was to use a 12" section cut from the underside in three places which were slightly bent in the upward direction so the track had a slight vertical easement to it. Later I realized I could simply use 4 sections of 3" straight or curved track and shim under to get the same vertical easement. If you have solid under support using sectional track is a good option but if its floating on gravel I would use the undercut method so you can ballast under the cut track.

 

[mike]

defitaly a very gradual bend in the track... at both ends..

 

[modeler]

The whole idea is to make the incline as gradual as possible. That being said, the track can generally be started by just raising the track & temporarily supporting it at aprox. one foot intervals until the top of the incline is reached. this will give you a chance to back away & take a long look at everything to determine whether or not it looks right. Once you are satisfied, start with your supporting piers and ending with ballast at the start of the incline. I am guessing that the weight of your engine(s) & cars will not sufficiently cause any unnecessary problems as long as the incline base is adequately contained or compressed depending on the ballast used.

 

[beavercreek]

Inclines....oh those inclines.
I have a garden that unfortunately rises up away from the house so had the option of either a very long tunnel or a long cutting OR making the layout go up the incline. Because of the troubles with very long tunnels and cuttings and the fact that the train would not be seen for a long time I chose the latter.
Over about 25 to 30 ft it climbs about 3 ft which is about 12% overall, although it does vary and is higher on one place.
All I can say is make it as gradual as you can as any sudden change in gradient will put strain on the motive power and either cause a noticeable slowdown or even can cause uncoupling (if you use certain brands of knuckles).
Also what goes up, must come down and if there is any sudden 'kink' surprises for when a loco(s) and all the weight of the rolling-stock behind, you will probably have problems.
I had the actual land to give me the track angling process but I did make sure that there were no 'kinks' during and at either end of the inclines.
Of course a rack railway is the answer if running short trains

This shows the incline at about 10%

My signature pic below shows steam locos battling the incline

 

[CoggesRailway]

Defo bend it not a joint. It will look wrong.

 

[Zerogee]

This is 100% theoretical, because I've not even laid a level line yet, let alone a gradient.... but my instinctive thought is to gently curve the track up (and down again at the top) by using the longest single piece of track you can conveniently get away with (say a 1200mm straight) and using the "beergut track bender" method (my term for it, but I've seen the idea printed many times) of gently curving it round your own body by putting it across your tum and pulling back on the ends (degree of curvature may depend on your fondness for pies....).

Jon.

 

[beavercreek]

Mmmm Jon, the ratio of curvature is divided by the fondness for pies...now that's a mathematical equation I can deal with!

Just one note on the track bending....some locos have a low front projection (like american diesels etc) and these can 'rub' or catch on the rail infront of them if the down vertical curve is too sharp. This either means the sound of scraping plastic for a short while or, if the curve is too much then it can lift the bogie off the track and really cause probs.
So the conclusion is..if you have a large radius of gut then your track curve will be less and therefore not pose a problem.....I knew there would be another reason for liking pies and ale............

 

[coyote97]

Yes, its very important to make changes in gradient very smooth.
My Experience is, that long tracks (like a 6 foot flexible track) will lay down over a smooth gradient-change on its own. It should be rounded out very properly and having a really big rounding-radius from about 30 feet or more. Less will work like "edges", and single-coupled LGBcouplers may lift off.
Using many small pieces of track will work, too, though they tend to move and give bad lining-accuracy and moving out of the gradient-change-radius.
Being able to fix small trackpieces, that will be no problem, though.

A good idea to make this outroundings is to take pieces of track with the lenght of at least the longest car or loco you have. Think about the future while planing with a Stainz....
Give each piece of track no more than 1 degree difference to the other.

So e.g. with my american stuff having cars of 2 feet, i should have gradient roundings like:

0 to 1 degree: one joiner
0 to 2 degree: joiner - 600mm track - joiner
0 to 3 degree: joiner - 600mm track - joiner - 600mm track - joiner

and so on.
Like this, the "edges" are not too hard. Using good joiners (not just the "stick and play" ones) with screws helps bending the pieces of track automatically.
Very important is to underlay the roundout properly, so that there is as les as possible movement in the track when u drive over it.



Greetings

Frank

 

[Cyclone]

My line is built on planks, I just lay them down. I think if the tack needs bending then your gradient is pretty fierce. I am using code 250 rail though which just follows contours.

I never plan anything I just go out do it, I don't have enough time to things "properly". I also dislike permanence, this week will hopefully see the third change to my return loop.

 

[Richie]

Have some inclines on my line most of my track is fixed down with rapid cement mixed with ballast the track was held down with weights until the cement went hard only had one problem area and that was off a point that i put in so have a bit of a ramp effect but hasn't casued any of my locos any problems .

Ramp effect looks worse than it realy is in this shot

From this angle you don't notice the ramp

Incline climbs up under the trestle bridge

 

[Cyclone]

Nice track work, good job.

 

[DRG11]

Many thanks for the photos ..the one with the point in it is very usefull,
thankyou