Stainz running slow

Are the Bachmann ones insulated?

I dropped an email to EHattons asking the same and they replied that they are not insulated. :(
 
Mobi said:
Are the Bachmann ones insulated?

I dropped an email to EHattons asking the same and they replied that they are not insulated. :(

I'm afraid you must have had a reply from some minion there who doesn't know that they are talking about (or who misunderstood your question)! The Bachmann/Liliput wheelsets are most definitely insulated - they have to be, as they are sold for Bachmann's own stock to run on DC or DCC...

The only ones you need to check on are those made and sold for live-steam (or battery) use, which is why I mentioned not being COMPLETELY sure about the GRS ones (I think they are most likely to be insulated but it wouldn't hurt to check to be 100%).

Jon.
 
Mobi said:
Are the Bachmann ones insulated?

I dropped an email to EHattons asking the same and they replied that they are not insulated. :(

As Jon says Bachmann are definitely insulated. (We'd be in deep doo doo if they weren't as loads of us on here are running Bachmann metals on DC and DCC).

They are also straight drop-in fit replacement for LGB. No nonsense, no messing about or fettling. Just take your old plastic ones out and drop the metal ones in.
 
Just for info the Liliput wheels are codes:
999304 spoked wheels
999300 plain wheels
both types are insulated.
 
Mobi said:
OK, I'll order those then ::)

You won't be disappointed! As Gareth said, they are a very quick and easy replacement - just gently spread the flexy plastic axle carriers and pop the plastic set out, then clip the new metal set straight in. As that bl**dy meerkat says, Simples! ;)
While the Bachmann wheels look slightly less "refined" and shiny than the LGB sets, functionally they are great; unlike the LGB types which have metal rims on plastic wheel-centres and axles, the Bachmann type are solid metal throughout (except for the plastic insulating inserts of course!), and this gives them a little extra bit of weight - which can be very handy for keeping your rolling stock running true and reducing derailments.

If you have a lot of rolling stock to do, then it can be worth talking to a local model railway shop if you have one (even if they don't stock G scale, they will probably have an account with Bachmann for smaller-scale stuff and thus be able to special order items) - and just see if you could get anything off by ordering a full box of blister packs - which would (I think) probably have 10-12 packs in it, which would be enough for 20-24 pieces of 4-wheel stock or half that number of bogie wagons.....

Jon.
 
Good wheels - I have got loads here. Lilliput and Bachmann. Basically the same. I got in to the habit of just picking a pack up when in shop or at exhibitions - that way you dont really notice the cost but it soon makes a difference.
And, of course, most LGB now has metal rimmed wheels included.
 
Tonight I discovered that best way to identify track connection problem is to run the loco at dark! I noticed in one specific section the loco light went off and it stopped. I have replaced that section of track and now it still dims the light there (and becomes slow) but at least manages to pass.

Still on some sections of the track the light flickers a bit which indicates loss of current. By checking the track I don't see any problem as such.
 
It's quite possibly a problem with the fishplates/rail joiners. When the loco reaches the section of track where it slows, try bridging the rail joints behind it with something metal. If it speeds up then you've identified a bad joint which needs sorting out, probably by squeezing the fishplate tighter. It may be worth parting the track, squeezing the joiners and then reconnecting.

Also remember that during the late evening as the temperature drops you get condensation on the rails which can affect pickup, causing flickering even though the track looks clean. You'll feel the moisture if you run a finger along the track.
 
I have cleaned the track again with scotchbrite and now it is running fine. Looks like I have to clean the track more often :-

I also sprayed some weed killer on track 2 days back. Not sure if that has contributed a layer of thin film on track.
 
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