Stainz (LGB 20212)

SevenOfDiamonds

SevenOfDiamonds

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I've been involved with garden railways since 1996 but (to shrieks of incredulity) I have never owned an LGB Stainz loco . . . until now (sort of).

From that well know auction site I've bought (very cheaply) a Stainz in bits. The seller's description included the fact that he didn't know why it was in bits. A very quick inspection showed that the quartering had gone seriously awry, and the (plastic) connecting rods were reminiscent of bananas.

That isn't a great worry to me, as I'm happy to strip away the valve gear and, if the chassis hasn't stripped the gears, put it under a diesel or something.

I also want to see what "circuit board" might reside within the (black) boiler unit, which I can't separate from the (green) cab. The (red) running plate is already detatched from both.

So, on the basis that new forum members are constantly being told that there is "no such thing as a silly question", this non-newbie would like to ask if there is a hidden screw, or other trick to separating these two parts. It looks like it should just slide off but, while I can twist the two parts a little, it seems resistant to just sliding out. Alternatively (now I've had an even closer look), how do I separate the lower part of the boiler from the upper part (if that's the easier way to see what is within)?

I do have a working Stainz chassis (bought from a fellow-forumite), so I may yet be able to claim that I've got a (working) Stainz . . . but that depends on advice from one of you kind gentlemen.

All the best

David
 
A few photos would help..
But a certain amount of brute-force, with a twist and pull, is needed..

PhilP.
 
There is something in the area of the coal space I think that helps get the cab off then the rest follows fairly intuitively.
 
MTheStrong said:
Hope this helps
Click to expand...

Yes indeed. Although the style of the video wasn't great (his hands blocking a view of what he was doing, at times), it helped me see (about 19 minutes into this 88 minute video, in case anyone else needs to know the same!) what pressure to apply where, in exactly the way Phil said . . .

PhilP said:
a certain amount of brute-force, with a twist and pull, is needed
Click to expand...

Thanks to all for your advice.

Of course, now I can see what's mounted on the weight, there's nothing there I need to access! Anyway, assembly on the existing (working) chassis is underway. The newly-acquired motor block (now minus the distorted valve gear) seems to be "dead" at present, but I've not given up all hope.

Cheers

David
 
I think the part was the water filler at around 13.16 that always gave me problems especially when I forgot to put it back in the correct order!
 
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