halifax100
Registered
OK! I´ve got a LGB Stainz from a starter set, you know the one with smoke, sound and lightning unit! I´m rebuilding it for R/C use and was looking around for guides and there are some out there...but few with pictures...
New to this hobby as I am, why not go for a thread that is really IKEA!
I´m going to use the socket on the back on the locomotive (just pull it right out) and place all the RC equipment inside the loco. It´s perhaps not going to be as nice looking as if I would use a tender but I´m doing it anyway, as a first step...
What needs doing is taking away the pickup skates and the wheel brushes. The Stainz have both.
OK, here we go:
Six screws needs to be taken away. Front screws:
Back screws that can be a little bit fiddly due to the couplings:
...and the side screws that holds a plastic thing that you can see at the lower picture:
Carefully pull it out from the upper body. Then turn it all around upside down, grab the wheels and carefully pull it apart! If you shake it carefully the upper body will go of more easily. Some guides says that one should have the loco on a flat surface and just pull the upper but I found it to be easier if holding it upside down. Watch out for the plastic "thing" that I mentioned before! I bend it some and turn it downwards so that it would not get stuck in the upper body when pulling apart.
Now it should look like this, when You uncoupled the plug that holds the wires between pickup, motor (in the chassis) and the electronics in the upper halves.
Here´s a closeup on the plug socket:
Now You should have six screws:
Let´s take it apart! Unscrew the four screws on the bottom of the chassis. It should look like this:
When I did it I took apart the upper lid aswell and it looked like this:
I´m not sure one needs to do this in order to take of the lower lid/bottom.
The next step is to take away this:
I picked out the brass plates that holds the pickup skates and carefully lifted the wheels to pull out the brushes:
I then had these things on my table:
I put back the long metal pins that transports the electricity from the skates and brushes to the socket. This for securing the plug properly. You can probably leave this out...
No I just put it all back together again and bam! Five minutes of work and the Stainz is out of power!
PS.Sorry for my sometimes bad english. I´m a viking!
Update 130409:
Now to the electronics!
I´ve ordered some R/C stuff on the web:
HobbyKing HK6S 2.4Ghz FHSS 6Ch Tx & Rx (Mode 2) $28,48
On the Ebay I found the speed controller for $38,98 that is good for forward and reverse + accepts lipo 3S (11,1v). This was kind of hard to find item when most of the modern speed controllers (ESC) are for brushless motors...
Ordered some different sizes of Lipo batteries 11,1v for about $4-5 a piecs.
I have no idea if these are going to fit inside a LGB Stainz. If not I can for sure, use them in upcoming R/C conversions. Everybody knows that one loco will not be enough, right?!!
Ohh, by the way, about Lipo batteries! The don´t tolerate to be discharged! I will use a Lipo Warner. I will get one from my own store, where we sell airsoft equipment, but I´m sure You can find this in a hobby store as well. It´s a small piece that makes several "biiips" when Your closing in on the lowest acceptable voltage per cell. One connects it to the balance plug on the lipo.
http://malmoairsoft.se/uploads/thumbnails/329ade6648986d5af49c8569066a0fb797095910_250x250.jpg
An other thing to be aware of is the fact that these batteries catch fire quickly if physically defect or shortcut. No worries! Just don´t put a Lipo on charge and leave home to get milk at the supermarket! Put it in a pot while charging or use a fire resistant lipobag.
Bought some male and female plugs from https://www.champex-linden.de/cl_produkte.htm to fit the socket on the back of the Stainz.
Update 130423
I got the speed controller unit. It does fit in the cab but there not much room for the rest of the stuff! It actually fits perfectly through the window without the driver! The problem will be the cables! Had a look at a different solution. If one is to use a speed controller without reverse one could find a much smaller unit:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9090__Turnigy_20A_BRUSHED_ESC.html
This one is very small takes lipos!
This is the schematics:
http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/halifax100/media/Stainz/kopplingsschema_zps0c30704e.jpg.html < Link To
So there are two possibilities: one is to use a esc with forward and reverse or use a esc without reverse and add a micro switch and a servo to reverse polarity.
http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/halifax100/media/Stainz/IMG_18331_zps39618002.jpg.html < Link To
New to this hobby as I am, why not go for a thread that is really IKEA!
I´m going to use the socket on the back on the locomotive (just pull it right out) and place all the RC equipment inside the loco. It´s perhaps not going to be as nice looking as if I would use a tender but I´m doing it anyway, as a first step...
What needs doing is taking away the pickup skates and the wheel brushes. The Stainz have both.
OK, here we go:
Six screws needs to be taken away. Front screws:
Back screws that can be a little bit fiddly due to the couplings:
...and the side screws that holds a plastic thing that you can see at the lower picture:
Carefully pull it out from the upper body. Then turn it all around upside down, grab the wheels and carefully pull it apart! If you shake it carefully the upper body will go of more easily. Some guides says that one should have the loco on a flat surface and just pull the upper but I found it to be easier if holding it upside down. Watch out for the plastic "thing" that I mentioned before! I bend it some and turn it downwards so that it would not get stuck in the upper body when pulling apart.
Now it should look like this, when You uncoupled the plug that holds the wires between pickup, motor (in the chassis) and the electronics in the upper halves.
Here´s a closeup on the plug socket:
Now You should have six screws:
Let´s take it apart! Unscrew the four screws on the bottom of the chassis. It should look like this:
When I did it I took apart the upper lid aswell and it looked like this:
I´m not sure one needs to do this in order to take of the lower lid/bottom.
The next step is to take away this:
I picked out the brass plates that holds the pickup skates and carefully lifted the wheels to pull out the brushes:
I then had these things on my table:
I put back the long metal pins that transports the electricity from the skates and brushes to the socket. This for securing the plug properly. You can probably leave this out...
No I just put it all back together again and bam! Five minutes of work and the Stainz is out of power!
PS.Sorry for my sometimes bad english. I´m a viking!
Update 130409:
Now to the electronics!
I´ve ordered some R/C stuff on the web:
HobbyKing HK6S 2.4Ghz FHSS 6Ch Tx & Rx (Mode 2) $28,48
On the Ebay I found the speed controller for $38,98 that is good for forward and reverse + accepts lipo 3S (11,1v). This was kind of hard to find item when most of the modern speed controllers (ESC) are for brushless motors...
Ordered some different sizes of Lipo batteries 11,1v for about $4-5 a piecs.
I have no idea if these are going to fit inside a LGB Stainz. If not I can for sure, use them in upcoming R/C conversions. Everybody knows that one loco will not be enough, right?!!
Ohh, by the way, about Lipo batteries! The don´t tolerate to be discharged! I will use a Lipo Warner. I will get one from my own store, where we sell airsoft equipment, but I´m sure You can find this in a hobby store as well. It´s a small piece that makes several "biiips" when Your closing in on the lowest acceptable voltage per cell. One connects it to the balance plug on the lipo.
http://malmoairsoft.se/uploads/thumbnails/329ade6648986d5af49c8569066a0fb797095910_250x250.jpg
An other thing to be aware of is the fact that these batteries catch fire quickly if physically defect or shortcut. No worries! Just don´t put a Lipo on charge and leave home to get milk at the supermarket! Put it in a pot while charging or use a fire resistant lipobag.
Bought some male and female plugs from https://www.champex-linden.de/cl_produkte.htm to fit the socket on the back of the Stainz.
Update 130423
I got the speed controller unit. It does fit in the cab but there not much room for the rest of the stuff! It actually fits perfectly through the window without the driver! The problem will be the cables! Had a look at a different solution. If one is to use a speed controller without reverse one could find a much smaller unit:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9090__Turnigy_20A_BRUSHED_ESC.html
This one is very small takes lipos!
This is the schematics:
http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/halifax100/media/Stainz/kopplingsschema_zps0c30704e.jpg.html < Link To
So there are two possibilities: one is to use a esc with forward and reverse or use a esc without reverse and add a micro switch and a servo to reverse polarity.
http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/halifax100/media/Stainz/IMG_18331_zps39618002.jpg.html < Link To
From now on coupling rods, is my middle name! I just presume it is correct because the wheels are spinning and the motor gear when I turn the wheels...
(excetions for Playmobil and some very expensive brands...)
