Sprung points

WKDOR

WKDOR

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Trying to spring some points and have tried using various stock wires without success. My non functioning prototype needs about 3" of wire

So off to model shop who recommend 1.5mm Piano wire - but minimum sale is 4 metres!

Does 1.5mm sound about right? Is there any alternative to Piano wire? Has anyone got an off-cut please?

mike
 
You don't say who's points, Peco, Piko, LGB. . . .
 
1.5mm sounds a bit heavy to me!

Perhaps that is all they had? AND want to offload it??
 
Could be used but the length would be critical. I use springs from old floppy disks, for my Peco.
 
If it is an LGB point why not use an LGB hand point switch. Works very well.
 
1.5 mm too thick.

Do you guys have what is called "safety pins" there?

0001.png
 
We do, but too strong for Peco.
 
Actually, doesn't the "strength" of the spring relate to the force required by rolling the loco/cars through?

You want it light enough to keep in place and toggle, but not so strong wheels rolling through cannot push it over, right?

As long as the switch mechanism is reasonably free by itself, the brand does not matter.

Am I missing something? (This is done all the time in the US)

Greg
 
God knows what is going on here, first it triple posted then when I tried to edit the extras out it cut the first one as well?????

It all boils down to the weight of your lightest vehicle, it must pass without de-railing. The position of the spring also has a bearing, if on the cross link it needs to be quite soft, if nearer the pivots it can be stronger. That is not always the easiest place to fit one.
 
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More info? Well the immediate need is on an #6 Aristo but could just as well be Aristo WR or TL 2100 or LGB R5. We don't use switch machines, i.e. manual operation.

The application is for a 100% reliable default route that can only be over-ridden by a knowledgable Fat Controller holding the spring open to the divergent route while every axle of every truck passes through - and then springs back to the default route when released. Hope this helps.
 
I buy little packs of springs from Home Depot. There is an assortment of various lengths and stiffnesses in the pack. With a bit of experimentation I was able to find the ones that were just strong enough to hold the points, yet limp enough to allow a train to pass through the points without derailing. I have added weight to most of my rolling stock. The field railway wagons need it the most. Full size freight cars need added weight somewhere near the center point of each bogie.

The first photo shows a simple sprung turnout. The second shows a sprung turnout with a ground throw, or at least my version of one.

IMG_3453.jpg IMG_3454.jpg
 
The longer the wire the less force required, just use someting good and springy then test it out till it works. You might need less or longer wire, whatever.

You could also think about old pen springs, same principle applies but with some fancy attachment methods. Experiment.
JonD
 
Many Thanks to all for the helpful suggestions

Greg. I'd understood that the idea with the safety pin was to use the coiled spring, but your picture doesn't show one - was that spring cut out of the straight lengths of a (larger) safety pin?


Jon, ah yes, "good and springy" is exactly what I'm after - but where to find it?
 
Some springs will rust, and become progressively weaker!
 
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