Spring loaded points.

Nodrog1826

Nodrog1826

Professional Idiot
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I have a feeling that I have asked this before.

Has anyone out there come up with a simple method of returning points to their set lay after a train has pushed through them.
So trains will allways take the same route on a passing loop and the return to the main line when exiting, and then reset the point,

Whilst I know there are the manual switches, I find that the "spring" tension is too tight at times and can cause lighter vehicles to derail when pushing through.
Adjusting the spring tension has been a bit hit and miss with me.
Leccy point motors will allow pushing through, but don't return to the set lay afterwards, which if you forget when running a single train,
gives you head on collision if you then run two opposing trains.

In effect what i want to do is, allways have the train in one direction staying on the main, and the opposing train going into the loop, no matter how many or few I run.
 
I found that LGB points do what you want, but NOT with plastic wheels/very light wagons. The other thing that will help is to keep the switch rails lubricated....
 
Nodrog1826 said:
Leccy point motors will allow pushing through, but don't return to the set lay afterwards,
Click to expand...
Massoth have some newish servo-based point motors that mount on LGB (and similar) points. They have a return to set position after being pushed through feature. Look for....

8444000 Switch Drive EVO-S​

8444010 Switch Drive EVO-X​

 
If the loco does not push through an LGB point check the back to back measurement of the wheels. If it is overwide it tries to push to early, does not succeed & derails.
 
Nodrog1826 said:
I have a feeling that I have asked this before.

Has anyone out there come up with a simple method of returning points to their set lay after a train has pushed through them.
So trains will allways take the same route on a passing loop and the return to the main line when exiting, and then reset the point,

Whilst I know there are the manual switches, I find that the "spring" tension is too tight at times and can cause lighter vehicles to derail when pushing through.
Adjusting the spring tension has been a bit hit and miss with me.
Leccy point motors will allow pushing through, but don't return to the set lay afterwards, which if you forget when running a single train,
gives you head on collision if you then run two opposing trains.

In effect what i want to do is, allways have the train in one direction staying on the main, and the opposing train going into the loop, no matter how many or few I run.
Click to expand...
Agree with Gavin.

I use the LGB manual lever method, but all my stock has metal wheels. I also add weight on lighter wagons, real logs or cat litter gravel....
 
Ok food for thought.
 
I have two spring loaded points. One at each of the two return loops. I have found that light springs work best for me. Without a photo to show you, these springs are of the type used to hold the safety chains up on screen doors. They are very flexible. I tie one end to the point bar and the other to a ground staple or nail driven into the ground.
 
I left the springs off mine so the train runs clockwise the first time around and anti clockwise the second time.
Mine is a single line with a loop at each end. It can be seen under "Cane line construction" in my blog see About the Railway in signature
 
simple(ton) solutions:
if on an elevated layout - a short piece of thin fishing line and a fishing weight. drill a hole an inch or so beside the switchbar.tie line to bar, pass through hole, tie the weight. let gravity work.
(had two working that way till dismantling that layout)
if on ground - screw turnout to a piece of wooden board. tie rubberband to switchbar, fix the other end of the rubberband with a pinprick or nail to the baseboard.
(the amount of sunny days regulates the frequency of replacing rubberbands)

plastic wheels - i have only two wagons with metalic wheels. if a car/wagon with plastic wheels does not cut open the switches, one or more fishingweights glued under the wagon work wonders.
 
korm kormsen said:
simple(ton) solutions:
if on an elevated layout - a short piece of thin fishing line and a fishing weight. drill a hole an inch or so beside the switchbar.tie line to bar, pass through hole, tie the weight. let gravity work.
(had two working that way till dismantling that layout)
if on ground - screw turnout to a piece of wooden board. tie rubberband to switchbar, fix the other end of the rubberband with a pinprick or nail to the baseboard.
(the amount of sunny days regulates the frequency of replacing rubberbands)

plastic wheels - i have only two wagons with metalic wheels. if a car/wagon with plastic wheels does not cut open the switches, one or more fishing weights glued under the wagon work wonders.
Click to expand...
Like the idea of a weight and line.
For plastic wheels I glued metal washers to back of some of mine to give extra weight.
 
I have a passing track on the far side of my L shaped loop. point is, it has to be reliable as its well out of reach from the control area.

I use the lgb manuals on it, and, the majority of my trains have plastic wheels. So far they have been very reliable. I dont even have issues with FRR stuff.., the loco always is leading the train.

if ive had issues, it is far more likely to be points not fully returning flush to the rail, as opposed to ‘push through’ problems.

clean and lubed is the ticket

here is what I do , at least yearly.
points are removed, thoroughly cleaned, metal surfaces polished and contact points and screws cleaned;
ditto the internal spring and lever assembly.

moving parts are then dry lubed with graphite or teflon;
and apparently critical, the points must be level, and not twisted. And, rails must be seated in the plates/chairs, or otherwise flush against the ties/sleepers.

fwiw, it is very important to keep out minute grit. My points are on soft wood mulch or large stone tiles so they dont get rain splatter from soil or ballast.
 
Bump Through Point.jpg
This is how it is done on full scale narrow gauge railways. Gravity, not a spring, does the work.

Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound
 
a98087 said:
It’s works as it’s simple

Also gravity is more reliable than springs,

springs wear out over time- gravity doesnt

Also gravity is free!

Dan
Click to expand...

Gravity sucks.....:giggle:
 
Nodrog1826 said:
I have a feeling that I have asked this before.

Has anyone out there come up with a simple method of returning points to their set lay after a train has pushed through them.
So trains will allways take the same route on a passing loop and the return to the main line when exiting, and then reset the point,

Whilst I know there are the manual switches, I find that the "spring" tension is too tight at times and can cause lighter vehicles to derail when pushing through.
Adjusting the spring tension has been a bit hit and miss with me.
Leccy point motors will allow pushing through, but don't return to the set lay afterwards, which if you forget when running a single train,
gives you head on collision if you then run two opposing trains.

In effect what i want to do is, allways have the train in one direction staying on the main, and the opposing train going into the loop, no matter how many or few I run.
Click to expand...
I have the same issue on my two Piko curved points. All of the LGB ones have a spring which works well and given how similar Piko have made their track I was really hoping the spring device that clips to the LGB points would fit the Piko ones but sadly they won't.

The elastic band idea below sounds interesting, I might try experimenting with that unless anyone has another solution for Piko points?
 
jayiscupid said:
I have the same issue on my two Piko curved points. All of the LGB ones have a spring which works well and given how similar Piko have made their track I was really hoping the spring device that clips to the LGB points would fit the Piko ones but sadly they won't.

The elastic band idea below sounds interesting, I might try experimenting with that unless anyone has another solution for Piko points?
Click to expand...

I have finally managed to get an idea to work on all the points including the Piko curved one, (a second one to be installed soon will be given the same treatment.) as in this post.

Eighton Bahn AKA testing testing RhB

Right then a rough track diagram... ...now the names of the various parts have been laid out in today's daily chat, post number 10. https://www.gscalecentral.net/threads/monday-18th-march-2024.320907/#post-720991 Now there is a saying that a map is out of date the moment the surveyor...
www.gscalecentral.net www.gscalecentral.net
 
I had wanted to show this on a friends 16mm layout using 10mm point levers. they do not have quite the throw of G scale Points but the concept with another lever would work. You can see here in the two pics how the spring at the bottom brings the point back to reverse. though the bar is all metal on a battery and steam operated line it could be made to work on plastic tie bars.IMG_5437.JPGIMG_5438.JPG
 
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