SPRAY PAINTS
- Thread starter Timmo
- Start date
I tend to use Halfords Rattle Cans, the undercoats Black, Grey and Red cover a multitude of sins and somewhere there is a list of colour match for the varying Car Colours to BR and some Continental Colours.
I have been using whatever comes in the closest colour for my needs, but recently only standard shades wanted which have been found in the Plastikote range obtainable from B&M amongst other outlets.
You don't say what colour you are wanting to match, but have you tried . . .
Hycote – Sprayster
www.sprayster.com
All the best
David
You can use automotive ready to spray spray acrylics, like Halfords, but you must use one of their plastic primers as a barrier/base coat as the solvents in automotive paint can react with some plastics. Use a lacquer coat from their range that is compatible with the base and colour coats. Try not to mix and match makes.
The safest to use are enamel type paints. Phoenix Precision make an excellent range of matched primer/colour and lacquer coats in a wide range or railway themed colours. However, you will need to mix them yourself for spraying.
Try to avoid old fashioned cellulose types as these will cause issues reacting with a poorly prepped and protected plastic substrates. If you are painting over a pre-existing painted surface always test for paint compatibility - primer,color coat and lacquer.
There are some very handy basic hobby airbrushes that are quite easy to master if you are going to mix your own paints. See here - Badger Basic Airbrush Set
Little trick when using rattle cans to improve their performance - After giving a good shake for 2 minutes, warm the body of the can in hand hot water for 2-5 minutes. This raises the pressure in the can and allows the paint to atomize to a finer spray and with a more consistent flow rate enabling a finer finish to be achieved.
If painting over decals remember to test that the finishing lacquer coat does not react with the decal causing it dissolve or bubble up. Max
The safest to use are enamel type paints. Phoenix Precision make an excellent range of matched primer/colour and lacquer coats in a wide range or railway themed colours. However, you will need to mix them yourself for spraying.
Try to avoid old fashioned cellulose types as these will cause issues reacting with a poorly prepped and protected plastic substrates. If you are painting over a pre-existing painted surface always test for paint compatibility - primer,color coat and lacquer.
There are some very handy basic hobby airbrushes that are quite easy to master if you are going to mix your own paints. See here - Badger Basic Airbrush Set
Little trick when using rattle cans to improve their performance - After giving a good shake for 2 minutes, warm the body of the can in hand hot water for 2-5 minutes. This raises the pressure in the can and allows the paint to atomize to a finer spray and with a more consistent flow rate enabling a finer finish to be achieved.
If painting over decals remember to test that the finishing lacquer coat does not react with the decal causing it dissolve or bubble up. Max
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I use Hycote, white grey and black, usually buy online as you can find some good deals if you buy 6 or 12 cans, I use a lot 
and I use PlastiKote matt sealer, the ones with the funny useless spray nozzle that usual gets ripped off and a standard spray nozzle put in its place so it doesn't clog. The engines I have made and painted are sprayed in Hycote double acrylic in a suitable color, mainly I have used Rover Brooklands Green for locos.
and I use PlastiKote matt sealer, the ones with the funny useless spray nozzle that usual gets ripped off and a standard spray nozzle put in its place so it doesn't clog. The engines I have made and painted are sprayed in Hycote double acrylic in a suitable color, mainly I have used Rover Brooklands Green for locos.
Testors Dullcote is possibly the flattest, mattiest (if there is a word) varnish out there.
The results are great.
Available in UK from:
The results are great.
Available in UK from:
Testors Dullcote
The best spray varnish, Testors Dullcote with the EU legal formula, in our humble opinion this is possibly the best matt spray varnish there is. Use Testors Dullcote to protect your finished work and use over the top of a gloss varnish for extra protectio
www.modeldisplayproducts.co.uk
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Fully agree with Mike, though still not a patch on the original Testors/Floquil formula, sadly now unavailable like most of that range.
I would still advise when doing any painting project make a small test sheet before starting to apply the materials to the actual piece being worked on. Do not assume that any combination of paint or finishing lacquer will automatically be compatible, even if it says so on the tin - Build up layer by layer - substrate, as is + primer coats + colour coats + decals, if used + final finishing lacquer coat (e.g. Testors Dullcoat, Halfords Satin, Phoenix Matt, etc') as you would be applying to the actual item. The last two processes mentioned is where things usually unravel and go horribly wrong. You don't just end up having to fully strip back the layers of paint but you might have lost, or have to commission, some fearsomely priced bespoke or repro' decals too.
Another little tip, or two - Make sure the initial surface you are painting onto is properly prepared - abrade the surface with fine (1000 - 1200 grit) wet and dry, use wet. This provides a surface the paint being applied can "key" onto properly - helps avoid the dreaded "fish eyes" among other things. Then clean the surface to be painted with a mild oil free detergent (avoid most dish washing liquids that contain lanolin) and make sure there is no fine "dust" left over from the abrading process on the surface of in nooks and crannies, that will give you a horrible crinkle finish. Max
I would still advise when doing any painting project make a small test sheet before starting to apply the materials to the actual piece being worked on. Do not assume that any combination of paint or finishing lacquer will automatically be compatible, even if it says so on the tin - Build up layer by layer - substrate, as is + primer coats + colour coats + decals, if used + final finishing lacquer coat (e.g. Testors Dullcoat, Halfords Satin, Phoenix Matt, etc') as you would be applying to the actual item. The last two processes mentioned is where things usually unravel and go horribly wrong. You don't just end up having to fully strip back the layers of paint but you might have lost, or have to commission, some fearsomely priced bespoke or repro' decals too.
Another little tip, or two - Make sure the initial surface you are painting onto is properly prepared - abrade the surface with fine (1000 - 1200 grit) wet and dry, use wet. This provides a surface the paint being applied can "key" onto properly - helps avoid the dreaded "fish eyes" among other things. Then clean the surface to be painted with a mild oil free detergent (avoid most dish washing liquids that contain lanolin) and make sure there is no fine "dust" left over from the abrading process on the surface of in nooks and crannies, that will give you a horrible crinkle finish. Max
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This spray stuff is all very well, and I even use spray cans myself, especially grey automotive primer, which gives a very good tooth for a later coat of paint. But I'm a brush man. At this scale, brushing thin coats of paint on models works very well. My brush-painted models have won many competitions. I prefer acrylic paints, which I mix the the exact colours I want. If you plan to weather your models, master the art of scumbling, and all sorts of wonderful effects will open up to you! Cheers!
I never manage to get a good finish with brush painting (TBH I also have trouble with spray paint), have you any tips on you can pass on?
Well, I am a sculptor who paints, and I'm married to a portrait painter, so I admit I have an advantage there. Years of practice, study, and developing techniques. Everything we have learned has been by study and practice, and is not beyond others to learn, believe me. I managed at first with very little knowledge, by cautiously following these basic rules. My top tip would be to use very thin layers of paint, never thick ones. Work gingerly, especially as a novice. But work rapidly, without fear, and with large, long strokes. Use a big brush, not a small one. If you're about to try something new, Practice off the model. Learn about wet in wet, drybrush, and scumble. Acrylic paint can be moved around or washed off before it dries, but even after drying it can be cleaned up. Definitely practice off the model until you have built up some skill and confidence. The best advice is to use thin paint. You should learn the difference between opaque, semi-transparent, and transparent paints, and use each according to its own characteristics and limitations. I prefer to avoid opaque paints except for small details at the end, then on small brushes. Create a good all over painting surface by spraying with a grey primer. A quick, thin spray coat is best. Next build up thin layers of transparent or semi-transparent washes or glazes. Start thin and you can always make the colour denser as you become more confident. When thinning acrylics, use medium, not too much water, which weakens the adherence of these paints. Don't be afraid of using large brushes. Don't be afraid of so-called accidents. You can work unexpected results into your weathering. You can fix or re-do anything if your paints are not thick and glommy. Practice until you are fairly certain of what you're up to and proceed with confidence. The main thing is to dive in!
Spray painting is an art as well, but not a hard one to master. I only use it for my primer coat anyway. Shake the can, start the spray beyond an end and sweep along, finishing beyond the other end. Don't stop moving your spray can. You are aiming for a thin smooth homogenious coat. Don't re-spray unless necessary, and then only when the first coat is absolutely dry. KEEP IT THIN !!!!
Cheers!
Spray painting is an art as well, but not a hard one to master. I only use it for my primer coat anyway. Shake the can, start the spray beyond an end and sweep along, finishing beyond the other end. Don't stop moving your spray can. You are aiming for a thin smooth homogenious coat. Don't re-spray unless necessary, and then only when the first coat is absolutely dry. KEEP IT THIN !!!!
Cheers!
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While i have used testors, krylon, and other us sprays.
i have found that 1:1 larger pigment particle paint can be fine in some applications, and less expensive.
that being said, if i want to to preserve minute , fine detaling,
tamaya is, imho, superb. Very thin, self leveling, amazing final outcome.
i have found no other product like it.
i have found that 1:1 larger pigment particle paint can be fine in some applications, and less expensive.
that being said, if i want to to preserve minute , fine detaling,
tamaya is, imho, superb. Very thin, self leveling, amazing final outcome.
i have found no other product like it.
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I have recently started using molotow (graffiti) acrylic spray paints combined with their "super skinny" nozzle (over Tamiya primers). They are available in a huge number of colours (about 200) and quite cheap (from about £3.50). The nozzle produces very a controllable low pressure spray allowing spraying close without fear of runs. I agree with Steve above that Tamiya sprays are the best but the colour range is very small and uneven, unless you want dull dark green in which case there is a choice of about 8 most of which you'd be hard pressed to tell apart.
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