Single track with passing loop

[Phil_Vincent]

I'm sure this has been asked but I can't find it with a search.

I currently have a loop track on one side of my garden, I'd like to run a single track from that loop off as a branch like across the end of the garden to another loop which the train would get around and come back down the single track onto the original loop.

I'd like to be able to do this without having to run out and switch points every time.

Power isn't an issue as my locos are all battery powered RC but I'm not sure how to do the points?

I await any help eagerly!

Phil

 

[PhilP]

Depending on which brand of track you are using:
A sprung - point can be pushed - through, in the wrong direction.

If your points do not have a over-centre spring, you can make an omega-loop, or hold the point in one direction, with a conventional spring.

PhilP

 

[Gizzy]

If you are using LGB points with their manual switch lever, then you don't need to change the point as the train should just 'push through' the point blades.

I've done this myself, and I've even seen it in operation on the Welsh Highland Railway, so there is a prototype....

 

[dunnyrail]

Another option is to remove any operating levers and just have a lenght of springy wire screwed an inch or three from the tie bar adjusted so that it just springs the point back to normal, then any train arriving the other way from the diverging route will just push that blade across for it to spring back again. Remember just not too strong a push required.

 

[Phil_Vincent]

Ok I'm using Piko track on the line and I have a couple of sets of points that I've seen this happen to, so I guess that's what I'll do. I did wonder if that was what people did, but seemed too easy!

 

[Bill Barnwell]

I'm sure this has been asked but I can't find it with a search.

I currently have a loop track on one side of my garden, I'd like to run a single track from that loop off as a branch like across the end of the garden to another loop which the train would get around and come back down the single track onto the original loop.

I'd like to be able to do this without having to run out and switch points every time.

Power isn't an issue as my locos are all battery powered RC but I'm not sure how to do the points?

I await any help eagerly!

Phil

Phil, LGB makes excellent manual switches and once set will stay that way set your incoming switch the direction you wish to travel and the return switch will correct itself when the train passes over it, some engines with front pilots will jump the track trying to open the points so engines like 0-4-0 or 0-6-0 work best but if using an engine with a front pilot adding weight or springs to it can cure the problem. There are no electrical connections needed, Bill

 

[Gavin Sowry]

Phil, LGB makes excellent manual switches and once set will stay that way set your incoming switch the direction you wish to travel and the return switch will correct itself when the train passes over it, some engines with front pilots will jump the track trying to open the points so engines like 0-4-0 or 0-6-0 work best but if using an engine with a front pilot adding weight or springs to it can cure the problem. There are no electrical connections needed, Bill

For best results, keep the switch plates well lubricated. The merest amount of friction could stop the switch rails from returning to Normal.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Gavin what kind of lubrication do you recommend? Oil or dry lube?

 

[voodoopenguin]

Does it make a difference if the returning loco pushes through on the straight line or the curved line. I have a feeling it would be less prone to a mishap if pushing in a straight line.

Paul

 

[Gavin Sowry]

Gavin what kind of lubrication do you recommend? Oil or dry lube?

I use 3 in 1 oil, but that's not to say it's the best. Never really tried any dry lube products because they are hard to get, and more expensive. 3 in 1 just happens to be on the shelf at the Supermarket, and is easily slipped in to the weekly shopping, and what's more, it then doesn't come out of the modelling budget.

The thing with the spring is, it has to be so light to allow the switch rail to be forced under pressure, that sometimes, it's not strong enough to flick back fully. I've had good success by cleaning out the LGB spring box, too. Surprising, well, not actually, what stuff accumulates in there after a few years. I also take off the coverplate over the switch tie bar, and thoroughly clean out under that (and put the cover back on).

 

[Paul M]

If the loco pushes the points across, you really don't want them to spring back as the rest of the train may be too light to do the same, resulting in upsets.

 

[dunnyrail]

If the loco pushes the points across, you really don't want them to spring back as the rest of the train may be too light to do the same, resulting in upsets.

Which is where my thin longish bit of wire solution comes into play. We used this method for years on a couple of LGB R3‘s on the Ruschbahn with no derailments being recorded. And trains used to go either way so the spring back was a vital element of running on an unseen part of the line.

 

[PhilP]

If the loco pushes the points across, you really don't want them to spring back as the rest of the train may be too light to do the same, resulting in upsets.

Swapping to metal wheelset, or a little ballast (perhaps a load on/in a wagon) is enough to cure problems with your own stock..
You do need to watch any visiting stock though..

PhilP

 

[Brixham]

Or use LGB point motors.....but unpowered.

A heavy loco will set the point when it trails through, and all the light rolling stock can follow quite happily.
The next train that appears at the facing point will take the route that is set, and then return to trail through the point again and leave it set the other way.
A nice feature of this is that trains alternate either clockwise or anti clock through the loop

Malcolm

Ps with some basic wiring and use of isolating sections, magnets and epl sensors, this can be made to work for powered track

 

[Madman]

If the loco pushes the points across, you really don't want them to spring back as the rest of the train may be too light to do the same, resulting in upsets.

Sprung points are the way to go. But as you mentioned, light rolling stock will derail. It will take a bit of experimenting to find the sweet spot. First, find a spring that is not too stiff. I have found that storm door springs, the type that keep the chain out of your face are just right for this purpose. Second, I have weighted all of my rolling stock with lead blocks placed under the car, or in the case of freight cars, loads that have some weight to them. Finally, metal wheels are a must.

 

[Paradise]

You can make any set of points off-centre sprung with a short length of spring wire. Drill two small holes, one in the throw bar, the other in adjacent sleeper, Both holes in the exact centre. With the spring wire, make a V which sits flat with perpendicular legs going into the holes. The V must be bent wider than where the ends go into the holes so the spring V is under pressure therefore forcing the throw bar to seat one way or the other. Plain stainless steel guitar strings are a good source of spring wire in various thicknesses up to about 0.17 thou. A decent music shop will sell individual strings for $1 or so.

 

[Bill Barnwell]

I say no lube, if it is extremely necessary use a dry lube, wet lubes attract dirt and dust, just keep them clean, BB

 

[Greg Elmassian]

It might be helpful here to indicate there can be 2 thoughts of "sprung".

One is when displaced from it's resting position, it always returns to that state. For instance you have a spring just pulling it to the diverging route, and as the train exits the loop, it is going straight, and EACH wheelset works against the spring.

The other is the switch has an "over center" spring, and once pushed over center it STAYS in that position.

I find the last condition the best, because ONLY the loco needs to force the switch over, the rest of the train has no such pressure. So only the leading wheels on the loco need enough "push" to move the switch.

Now the latter condition may be the hardest to figure out, but many switches work this way naturally, and there is a simple way to add a light spring to a switch to do this.

Greg

 

[GAP]

I use a Y point with no spring it is used to form a loop train runs into the loop then on the way out it changes the point.
The point stays in that position until another train enters the loop and changes it on the way out.
Trains direction around the loop alternate.
As for lubrication of LGB switch boxes I use "Mr Sheen" furniture polish it is wax based and does not collect dirty easily.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

How do you keep the points over to the stock rail with no spring? With my luck the loco would always split the switch.

Greg